Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: birdpointlightstring32 on April 23, 2012, 01:44:12 pm
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what is the most durable/simple design for elm. I am almost finished with my shag bark hickory stave. talking about the stave teaching the student this one did it.lol.. didnt dry it correctly, didnt take down to bow size first, didnt seal, lol, ;D . I got more didnts ..lol.. would a pyramid back ,same thickness along entire length, work well with this one .?
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Flat bow go about 2'' at the fade and keep that thickness as long as possible (maybe 15 inches). That's the most durable I suspect. The sooner you taper it toward the tips the faster it will shoot but the less wood takes more stress and increases the chance of a break. That's the deal with white wood. I'm doing some hickory bows now that are pyramid but I understand I'm taking more risk for the reward. Note if you try pyramid they are typically about even thickness the entire limb; the taper is on the sides. Best of luck!
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Got to disagree there. IMHO the simplest design is a pyramid bow and it's likely the most durable as with a pyramid bow the thickness of the limbs is more or less constant meaning all parts of the limbs are bending the same amount (shade less at the fades). Same thickness , same bend = equals equal strain on all parts of the limb.
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Got to disagree there. IMHO the simplest design is a pyramid bow and it's likely the most durable as with a pyramid bow the thickness of the limbs is more or less constant meaning all parts of the limbs are bending the same amount (shade less at the fades). Same thickness , same bend = equals equal strain on all parts of the limb.
i gotta agree with Mike on pyramid's, i build lot's of white wood pyramids and they last great, Bub
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I also agree with Mike,I use to make them really wide and flat but now make most Hickory and Elm 1 1/2 to 1 5/8 at the fads,sometime to mid limb and sometims straight tapper to the tips,both work well, no fretting and can't say I ever had one break because of the design.Also I usually make them at least 62/64 n-n for my draw of 26inch.They preform well and hold up nicely. :) :)
Pappy
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A lot of elm is darn near unbreakable from a bow perspective. I'm not sure why the D bow wasn't mentioned. Isn't that the most simple and durable design for any wood?
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Ty for taking the time out of your day to reply.. Here is my hickory bow i finished. Time is precious with a child on the way and I rushed through this one. I had a free hour or half hours occasionally throughout the months. That is why I had a lot of " I didnt do this " so a lot of rushed steps to get to the end product but I learned so much and had so much fun. Step one marking some good Elm candidates! I used a 7 dollar hatchet that a friend put a chisel cut on, nock file, sharp mechanical pencil, chalk line, tape measure, rasp with file side (8 inches long). Really loved knowing and learning what a simple hatchet with a chisel grind can do. 69 inchs ntn and ??? who knows on weight.Feels like 35 pounds idk... Now I know what NOT to do. One limb had a natural reflex to it. TY.
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Nice work,looks good to me. :)
Pappy
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Looks good to me too. The D bow is a good durable design...one for the ages. Jawge