Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: lesken2011 on March 20, 2012, 12:54:55 am
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They were doing spring pruning in my neighborhood the other day. I'm still learning my trees, so I stopped and took some pics of some of the prunings and the trees they came from. You may remember I asked about Bradford Pears a few days ago. My neighborhood has many Bradford Pears and, as it turns out, Crepe Myrtles. Here is a pic of a typical BP..
(http://www.traditionalbowman.com/hwdphotos/uploads/62/4/dw0hp5juoevopt.jpg)
Here is a crepe myrtle, at least that's what I was told.
(http://www.traditionalbowman.com/hwdphotos/uploads/62/4/ujuw4in62gi085.jpg)
As I came through the neighborhood, the other day, this is what I saw...
(http://www.traditionalbowman.com/hwdphotos/uploads/62/4/xcztgpo60fab44.jpg)
More...
(http://www.traditionalbowman.com/hwdphotos/uploads/62/4/nsk32sg73xb2ib.jpg)
Here is a BP missing a big limb...
(http://www.traditionalbowman.com/hwdphotos/uploads/62/4/7nxwxdgea2bqx6.jpg)
Guess what? Normally the city in which I live takes weeks to get out and clean up the prunings. By the time I checked on this web site and other sources about whether these would be good bow woods, the city had already cleaned them up? Should I be sick? Do you guys see anything I missed of value?
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Too late now I wouldnt let it bother ya now ;)
;D
Josh
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I agree with Josh. Let it go man 8)
BUT since you asked, look up Ken75 crepe myrtle bows. Looks to be 30 plus CM bows just in that pile.
Cipriano
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Unless you can go to where they took this"debris" you are out of luck. Any of either that is 2" diameter or better and 3' long can make bows. There are other yards with bow wood that is being "pruned" now and chipped up if you aren't vigil. Have a hand saw handy in your vehicle and a hank or rope to tie your prize the roof if needed. He who hesitates looses! ;)
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I halfway expected you all to tell me nothing looked good in the piles I missed. I can't believe I didn't grab a few straighter limbs just in case. While I am disappointed, at least now I know to be watching this time next year for the spring trimming!! Thanks for the feedback.
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no way you should see what the forest service does here in oregon...i have watched them hog out patched of vine maple to clear the sides of roads....and with a hog you cant save any thing...john
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Always take the wood first then ask questions later.
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I agree with Dwardo. When in doubt do it and if it turns out to be junk then its fuel for the fire. Danny
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I see no reason not to go through the piles now. Save what you can.
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I ran into the landscape supervisor a few minutes ago and told him my dilemma. He was surprised that crepe myrtle makes good bows. He laughed at how many he has cut down and pruned over the years. He asked me if I knew where the vacant lot in the back of the development was. I said yes. He said there were a few tall, straight crepe myrtles on that lot that he was probably going to cut down, and that I could harvest any that I wanted. I just rode by and they are straight and tall. I'll probably cut them this weekend. What is the best way to care for them and how long should they dry?If any you out there have some feedback, I would appreciate it.
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You should PM Ken75. He makes some amazing CM bows.
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I just pm'd Ken75. I am really excited. Finally some staves to work on. I hope I don't have to let them dry for a year or something...
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lesken , on crepe myrtle anything 1 1/4 diameter or larger will work a lil wiggle wont matter as long as you can line the tips up. i usually cut long and then hold the stave behind my shop door jam till i see where and how to line the tips.seal the ends and reduce to whatever you can on small dia . larger stuff 1 1/2 wide full length and thin to 3/4 inch . its important to not narrow your tips till its dry , cm will warp sideways if narrowed. stick it in your car or truck for two weeks , then floor tiller and move inside for a week or so . should be good to go after that
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Thanks for the feedback, Ken. A few more questions or clarifications... When you say thin to 3/4 in, do you mean from belly to back? Do you handle this like a normal stave as far as splitting, debarking, chasing a ring, etc.? Should I strap them to anything to dry with a reflex?
Kenny
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Cool Thread!
I'm liking CM.
-gus
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I googled crepe myrtle bows and saw several made by really good bowyers. Some left the bark on and some took it off. I can't wait to get started on one.
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lesken you can leave the inner bark on but it will have a crack every 1/4 inch or so , and be prepared to have mini heartattacks while tillering cause it will creak and pop the whole time. i have built three with bark on (inner bark) and they stop popping after a while, trust me its not breaking just inner bark has no tension. what i do now is scrape the bark off with my pocket knife and just leave a few islands of inner bark in the low spots . gives you a nice back . yes i was refering to back to belly thickness on the 3/4 inch , this is for my bendy handle bows , and never more than 60 inches long . if your going longer you may wanna leave an inch thick . you can strap to a reflex caul while drying ,to each his own , most ive done this way goes away while tillering , with any wood , heat or steam would be a better choice for adding reflex. which brings me to another thought , CM will steam well , and dry heat works with it also for increasing compression strength. CM will usually split with ease , if you have any issues with it not wanting to split straight , make a 6 inch cut in one end where you wanna split it and then split from there .hope this has been helpful
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Thanks, Ken. I should be cutting them this weekend.
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I am going to cut the staves, today. One more question, Ken or anyone who knows. It looks like most of the staves have a max 3 to 4 in diameter which will leave a pretty high crown. Most of the CM bows I have seen, the outside of the tree is used as the back. Can, or should, you decrown on the smaller diameter staves? Also on the smaller diameter trees is there a specific design that is better? This looks like a white wood that generally calls for wider limbs according to TBB. Also, I read somewhere that CM compares to hickory in some ways. Does it also absorb moisture alot like hickory?
I know I am going to have to experiment to learn. I just hate to waste some of the few staves I will have. Thanks so much for sharing your expertise.