Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Rick Wallace on March 10, 2012, 07:44:38 am
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Back to work on my Pecan bow,I got it bending pretty well,noticed I had some propeller twist in the bottom limb,I heated it,used the wrench and jug of water method I saw Jawge post a while back,The twist is gone but now I want to heat some reflex in. Question is all this heating I have done with a heat gun,would it be ok to use steam to do the reflex? And I was planning to back the bow with rawhide,should I do this before I start tillering after the heating and bending is done?
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Use dry heat. It will work better and "stick" better in my opinion. Im unsure what you use for reflexing, I attached a pic showing a very simple way to do it if you dont have a caul or form. There was rawhde on the bow already when I added a touch more reflex on this bow to catch up with the other limb. No the TBIII didnt let go. I heated it slowly and from a distance, just hot enough to burn my fingys, then clamped it down. It worked perfectly.
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Back to work on my Pecan bow,I got it bending pretty well,noticed I had some propeller twist in the bottom limb,I heated it,used the wrench and jug of water method I saw Jawge post a while back,The twist is gone but now I want to heat some reflex in. Question is all this heating I have done with a heat gun,would it be ok to use steam to do the reflex? And I was planning to back the bow with rawhide,should I do this before I start tillering after the heating and bending is done?
do you mind posting that link about the wrench and jug of water method?
Thanks
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This is similar to Georgeys. I use a paint can rather.
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Remember that any correction you made for twist will partially come undone as you re-heat that secton to add your reflex. With a little pre-planning and head scratching it's possible to do both reflexing and twist correction at the same time.
Go to it, and good luck!
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Ahhhhhhhh,,,guess I should have waited a bit!! Thanks,lesson learned! :)