Primitive Archer

Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Dictionary on February 21, 2012, 06:55:28 pm

Title: Maple 45#@28in
Post by: Dictionary on February 21, 2012, 06:55:28 pm
(http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll235/Jayrock205_photos/D-bow003.jpg)
(http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll235/Jayrock205_photos/D-bow.jpg)
(http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll235/Jayrock205_photos/D-bow001.jpg)
(http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll235/Jayrock205_photos/D-bow002.jpg)

Hope these pictures show up. Showed about 47 or 46# @ a 28 in draw.70 inches long. Side nocks. About 1 1/8 inches wide at handle. I roughed it out about 2 and a half weeks ago down to floor tiller dimensions and let it dry under my bed. It probably wasn't entirely dry but i've been eager to try a d-bow for a while of this design. Made from a very small diameter sapling by the way. Tiller isn't perfect but it bends evenly throughout its length(altough the handle could bend more i think...maybe not).  Something like 2.5 inches of set. Probably due to the wood not being seasoned to its entirety. Tips don't bend. No finish on it and no handle. It has collected a bit of dirt on it already after having been shot a dozen or so times.

Title: Re: Maple 45#@28in
Post by: GaryR on February 21, 2012, 06:59:28 pm
Simple and efficient, I like it.
Title: Re: Maple 45#@28in
Post by: Pat B on February 21, 2012, 07:03:31 pm
Your full draw pic shows a beautiful circular bend. Well done.   
Title: Re: Maple 45#@28in
Post by: Dictionary on February 21, 2012, 07:06:54 pm
Been having trouble with photobucket so i hope these work..

I used 12 strands of b50 for the string. I haven't served the string yet at the nocking point. I used a libricant to lube the string up i got at a local archery shop.Flemish loop on one end and timber hitch on other. I find this easiest. I reverse twist a length long enough for the loop, fold it over then reverse twist until the ends run out(You get what i mean). Then i go down to the other side and reverse twist a length long enough to make the timber hitch for the bottom nock. Then i simply the loop end of the string to add twist to the entire length. Takes about 10 minutes. I hope this is the correct way.

Also i wanted to address the tips. I've been told to let the last 6 inches not bend, i dont know why but i do it anyways. I don't know a good thickness to go by so i keep them quite thick(maybe too thick) here is an awful picture taken with a blackberry phone. They are slightly narrowed.
(http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll235/Jayrock205_photos/D-bow010.jpg)
(http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll235/Jayrock205_photos/D-bow007.jpg)
(http://i289.photobucket.com/albums/ll235/Jayrock205_photos/D-bow009.jpg)



A druid inspired bow i meant to mention.
Title: Re: Maple 45#@28in
Post by: Pat B on February 21, 2012, 07:15:26 pm
Make the tips about 1/2" to 5/8" thick and narrow then to 1/2" to 3/8" wide.   Rigid tips act like levers to help propel the arrow but excess physical weight can rob cast and add hand shock so you have to find a happy medium.
Title: Re: Maple 45#@28in
Post by: half eye on February 21, 2012, 07:17:30 pm
Nice bend, young man 8)
Title: Re: Maple 45#@28in
Post by: bubby on February 21, 2012, 07:29:59 pm
that's cool, do the tip's like Pat said, and i think i'd seal it up like that, nice and rustic, make a great reinactment bow, Bub
Title: Re: Maple 45#@28in
Post by: Slackbunny on February 21, 2012, 07:30:51 pm
That's a cool looking bow.
Title: Re: Maple 45#@28in
Post by: Keenan on February 21, 2012, 07:34:57 pm
Very nice tiller young man. It's good to see you back at it. ;)
Title: Re: Maple 45#@28in
Post by: Dictionary on February 21, 2012, 07:37:05 pm
Thank you Pat for that. I believe i should narrow and take some wood off of the tips.

And thank you all for your comments. It is a very crude bow but i did rather enjoy how simple it was to make. With a hatchet, knife, and a rasp, took only about an hour or so from roughed stave to shooting. Right from floor tiller it was tillering out very nicely on long string, then straight to the tree it was bending quite well.  I have heard some say the D-bow is quite easy and also heard some say it is more difficult to tiller. I find it to be a very simple, functional design.

And regards to a finish. I have an ace hardware up the street. What is a good, inexpensive finish? Inexpensive being the key word  ::) Money is quite tight.
Title: Re: Maple 45#@28in
Post by: Bevan R. on February 21, 2012, 08:01:42 pm
Paraffin wax is pretty inexpensive and water proof. I have used it before.
Title: Re: Maple 45#@28in
Post by: ErictheViking on February 21, 2012, 08:39:00 pm
very nice bend!
Title: Re: Maple 45#@28in
Post by: Keenan on February 21, 2012, 08:48:57 pm
Congratulations, Looks like you are off to a very good start.
Title: Re: Maple 45#@28in
Post by: youngbowyer on February 21, 2012, 08:59:01 pm
Thank you Pat for that. I believe i should narrow and take some wood off of the tips.

And thank you all for your comments. It is a very crude bow but i did rather enjoy how simple it was to make. With a hatchet, knife, and a rasp, took only about an hour or so from roughed stave to shooting. Right from floor tiller it was tillering out very nicely on long string, then straight to the tree it was bending quite well.  I have heard some say the D-bow is quite easy and also heard some say it is more difficult to tiller. I find it to be a very simple, functional design.

And regards to a finish. I have an ace hardware up the street. What is a good, inexpensive finish? Inexpensive being the key word  ::) Money is quite tight.
A can of miniwax is quite cheap if i recall correctly. Heck, you could even finish it with some vegetable oil, I've done that before!
Title: Re: Maple 45#@28in
Post by: PEARL DRUMS on February 21, 2012, 09:52:25 pm
I like that full draw shot, good bends equal good bow in my book. Anybody can make a piece of wood look like a bow, but not everybody can make a piece of wood shoot like a bow!