Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Eagle Boyer on February 07, 2012, 12:06:05 am
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ok so I just got some red oak boards the other day and on the one that I'm going to try first the grain appears to run in fairly straight lines on one half and at slight angles for the other. So my questions are....do I need to straighten the lines on the back? should I put a backing on it? If so what should I use? How wide should the limbs be? how much taper? oh and should mention the board is 2"x6' and I would like to make it pull 50#@28". Any and all help is greatly appreciated.
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Yes you will need backing with a board bow. You can use simple things like linen. I suggest using a riser (if you know what that is), and begin tapering right after the riser touches the board. Hope this helps ;)
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There is a good build along at this site poorfolksbows.com
and great information at this site in the build along section and other sites like this one.
http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/
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There was a great article a few years ago inPA mag entitled bows from boards I believe. I would suggest though you build one of lower poundage first to get the feel. but to build one to 50 you will have to back it or cut a thin strip and laminate it. Also first book" the traditional bowyers bible" is awesome reading. Will explain alot
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I'll throw in my $0.02...
1. ...grain appears to run.....at slight angles....
2. ...do I need to straighten the lines on the back?
3. should I put a backing on it?
4. If so what should I use?
5. How wide should the limbs be?
6. how much taper?
7. oh and should mention the board is 2"x6' and I would like to make it pull 50#@28".
8. Any and all help is greatly appreciated.
1. "slight angles" - without seeing the board I cannot really help. I've made some pretty decent red oak board bows out of 1x2 boards where the growth rings weren't 100% straight. As a general rule of thumb, I'd say if the limb has 3 or less rings running off the sides at a LOW angle (maybe about 5 degrees) you should be relatively safe.
2. I'm not exactly sure what you mean by straighten the lines, but if your board is wide enough you can follow the growth rings (lines). I've done this before with great success.
3. Only if you feel the need to. Personally, I hate backing bows, but if it means the difference between kindling and a bow, then by all means back it. Do you need to? Refer to answer #1 ;)
4. If you decide to back it I'd suggest linen, silk, or rawhide.
5. With board bows (or any bow) of questionable integrity, I always start off as wide as I can. You can always reduce the width later on without much effect on draw weight.
6. Once again, with bows from questionable wood, I like to keep the limbs full width to mid limb, then taper to 1/2" or 3/8" nocks.
7. Is the board truly 2" wide or is it a 1x2x6? A 1x2 board will only be 1.5" wide. If the board is truly 2" wide I'd glue on a handle riser and make a narrow, non bending flatbow. If it's 1.5" wide I'd make it a bendy handle D-bow with a slightly narrowed handle (about 1.25" wide) and leave the handle area 3/4" thick so it only has the slightest give near full draw.
8. That's what we're here for! ;)
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Matt S.
It is 1.5" wide
To All
I am going to back it with linen just to be safe, any suggestions on glue brands?
And I should say I am not totally new this is my 5th bow attempt first with a board. And I have all four TBB's. And I've done archery for a while, so I know a little.
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I'm considering trying one of these myself. Here is a cool video series I found on YT of making an Ash board bow. Best of luck! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YXTO2MqTJtE
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Matt S.
It is 1.5" wide
To All
I am going to back it with linen just to be safe, any suggestions on glue brands?
And I should say I am not totally new this is my 5th bow attempt first with a board. And I have all four TBB's. And I've done archery for a while, so I know a little.
I prefer Titebond III, mostly due to convenience. Titebond II will also work, but I'd avoid TBI as it's not water proof.
If linen backed, you should be able to either make the bow about 69+" tip-to-tip with a stiff non-working handle, or 64+" tip-to-tip with a working handle.
Hope this helps!