Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: vanduzer on February 02, 2012, 12:03:33 am
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I have hickory for the back, and I bought some black locust for the belly. Now I am having a feeling that I should glue these two woods together and then tiller. For insurance I was considering adding bamboo to the belly. I plan to use a smooth on ea-40 epoxy. I also plan to put this 68 inch bow on a form with a 2 inch block on the ends and a 1 inch block in the middle and securing with u bolts. I plan to cook at around 160 for 3 hours. I have made a few bows and I have had most of them brake. So any input would be valued. Some questions that have crossed my mind today. 1) can you temper black locust with a torch like you can with bamboo. 2) having my wood layers looked good. when I tapered the black locust today I put the scraps in a vice to test flexibility and strength. I had some results that showed that the wood could be bent at a decent rate. The scrap pieces all broke. This is what prompted me to tiller the bow down to 40lbs and then attempt to add a thin piece of bamboo for the belly. thanks for suggestions.... I learned some of what I have practiced through rudderbows. I have questions on design, materials and technique but I guess that is why I am on this forum : ) My goal is to have a 55 - 65 pound somewhat fast bow for hunting elk and deer.
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First off bamboo is way way better in Tension( backing) than compression( Belly). If you want a tri Lam I would do a bamboo.locust.hickory.or a Bamboo hickory locust..Hickory is an excellent belly wood. To answer one of your other questions BL will temper( heat treat) very well with dry heat and a little oil.When the wood starts to golden brown and smells like buttered popcorn your there.. usually 10-15 mins for each limb...
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Thanks HickoryBill. What is the method of dry heat for the BL. Could I put it in my heat box? And would mineral oil or linseed oil be ok to use ( i have both of these)? Does this change the cell composition making it less likely to break under tension?
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You can heat treat b.locust and it will respond very well. However you cannot heat treat a laminated bow as you will certainly ruin the glue (any glue). You could heat treat a belly slat before glue-up but thats pretty much a waste of time. Heat treating basically makes the bow better in compression - if anything it makes a bow MORE likely to break in tension if it is overstrained or has any flaws in the back. A simple way to do it is with a paint-stripping heat gun. Heat till the wood turns to medium brown.
Uncut wood fibers end to end of the back will make the bow virtually un-snappable (clauses...;)).
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Heat treating a belly core pre glue up will help IF it is a well pre tillered belly.<----key words
I know marc heat treats some of his bellies in his composite bows pre glue up. Hopefully he'll see this and give his experience with it.
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thanks for advice. I was also wondering if a board bow once nicely tillered can be reinforced on the belly with bow tuff fiberglass? If this is a good practice how many added pounds can you expect to put back on the bow with the one layer of fiberglass? I am only doing this for insurance. I thought maybe I am being paranoid and was wondering if my belly of the bow (black walnut) would be okay with the hickory backing. I know no guarantees but just wanting to use the best techniques for durable board bow.
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aaaaaaaaaaaaaahhhhhhhhhhhhhhh, he said the f word :o :o :o :o :o :o :o :'( :'( :'( :'( :'(