Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Ifrit617 on January 27, 2012, 06:04:19 pm
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Hi everyone,
I will be adding a backing to a Osage bow to prevent the grain from lifting up around some pin knots... The bow has been shot about 4000 times and the grain is starting to lift up there... Just got some backing strips from Mwirwicki, and have never rawhide backed a bow before, so I just want to make sure I'm doing this right. Here's my plan.
1. Scrape down bow to remove tru-oil finish.
2. Soak rawhide backing strips in warm water.
3. While the backing strips are still wet and pliable, apply to bow back with tbII
4. Wrap tightly with ace bandage
5. Let sit 24 hours then remove ace bandage
6. Let rawhide finish hardening
7. Rasp down and sand edges of rawhide smooth with bow.
8. test shoot
9. refinish
Is this the right way to do it?
Input and advice would be great. Also how do some of you go about dying your rawhide? do you do it before or after it is applied to the bow?
Jon
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That is basically it. Once the rawhide is well hydrated and pliable take it out of the water and remove the excess water. I usually roll it up in a towel or paper towels. Lightly sand the back of the bow and wipe it with a clean rag. Add glue to the back evenly and not too thick. Add a thin layer of glue to the rawhide and put them together. If the rawhide is real thin it may drape nicely over the bow without wrapping it. If not wrap it being careful not to pull the rawhide too much to one side(a common occurance). I use strips of old bed sheets but ace bandage works too.
I leave the wrap on for about an hour them remove it. The glue has started to set up but still soft. Feel along the back for air bubbles or excess glue pockets and work them out with your thumb of fingers. If the glue has set too much for this a pin prick in the rawhide will allow air to escape. For glue a small razor cut, lengthways will give room to release the excess glueThe small slit will disappear as the glue dries. Also, now is a goiod time to trim excess rawhide off with a sharp razor. Once that's done let it dry for a few days.
You can dye the rawhide before cglueing it of after it is on the bow. You will probably get a smoother appearance if you dye before glueing it down.
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Pat makes a good point about not letting the cloth or ace bandage stay on to long. I have let it cure 100% before and not only do I have to sand the wrap off (due to glue push out) but i also had air/glue bubbles that could of been fixed.
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Just a small point to add. You mentioned wrapping tightly with the Ace bandage. I've found you can wrap too tight. Just nice and snug. Otherwise you can end up with ridges where the layers overlap.
Ron
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If you do find that you left the Ace bandage or cotton mummy wrap on the limbs too long and the rawhide has taken an impression from the material, you can always wet it down again with a damp sponge or rag. This will plump the rawhide, but TBII or TBIII will resist absorbing the water. Just remember, whatever moisture you add you now have to cure out of the rawhide and the wood! Don't rush the job and go right into pulling the bow or working on retillering. Give it plenty of time to come to equilibrium.
TBII and III will release moisture into the wood as it dries and it needs to migrate all the way thru the wood to finish curing out. It may not be much water, but it can have a negative effect if you rush the job.
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Thanks for the tips guys... You cleared a bunch of things up.. I will post progress pics as I go.
Jon
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Hello, PA friends im looking to do some raw hide backing. I read in three rivers that it says not to soak their rawhide in warm water. Does anyone know why that is ?
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Kinda of a detour but maybe folks won't mind???
I have a horn bow in my plans, not necessarily an Asiatic or such but I was thinking and wondering how a thin core of rawhide would work between the horn and sinew? Probably missing something important with this idea but would love to hear some thoughts and opinions on the topic.
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Hello, PA friends im looking to do some raw hide backing. I read in three rivers that it says not to soak their rawhide in warm water. Does anyone know why that is ?
You want the rawhide to form to the back of the bow. If you try to glue it on dry, it won't form. Unless you are gluing it to a board. Warm water just rehydrate faster than cool water. You will want to blot the rawhide before applying. See Pat's instructions above.
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thanks BevanR that makes good since and Pat B makes an awsome rawhide bow :)
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I'm surprised more people don't use hide-glue for rawhide. The process is so much easier to control and the bond is far better.
Lee, in your scenario the rawhide is just like a layer of thick glue. Doesn't provide sonmething for the horn to hold against in shear. Might as sell just make a sinew/horn bow.
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Thanks Pat, I had that lurking suspicion in my mind plus undue added weight...thanks for confirming my thoughts.
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3Rivers told me they recommend not using warm water because so many people have thought that if warm is good then hot must be really good. Then they get peeved because the $20 plus postage they spent for rawhide strips shrinks up as it cooks in boiling water. Rawhide will denature and shrink to nothing in hot water just like sinew does.
Go ahead and use warm water, just warm enough to it feels good to hold your hands in it.
As for why I won't use hide glue with rawhide backing...I find it's like greased ice! My rawhide slides around too much and I have a hard time getting it to stay in place as I wrap the limbs. Other than that, I'd much rather use hide glue for most everything.
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I got another quick question.... Have any of you had any luck wrapping the rawhide with string as it dries like it says to do in the TBB? I am having troubles when wrapping with cloth with my rawhide slipping around on me...
Jon
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The string will leave a definate impression in the rawhide but that will work to hold the rawhide down. You will also have trouble holding the rawhide while wrapping with string. That is part of the process with rawhide and skin backings.
JW, I wonder how mant rawhide backings 3Rivers has done! ::)
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When you first place the hide strip or strips on the back use some masking tape applied by holding the strip across the center of the handle and pull both sides of the tape down equally and cross the tape on the handle. This pulls the hide to the bow without putting any side to side twist to it.
Do the same at the tips. Then you can wrap from the handle out with a spiral to the wrap without skewing it to one side. Do the first spiral out to the tips fairly gently and then come back down the limb to the handle a bit tighter.
Do the same with the other limb.
As you get your warp closer to the taped sections you can pull them off and just wrap those areas with cloth. They are just put on as a temporary hold.
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Pat
I wonder if you could just do it all with painters tape ?
That is the way I put snake skins on but I have not used it for rawhide
I tear off 30 or so pieces of 1.5" tape 6" or so long before I start to glue
then when I'm ready I wrap them around and stick the ends together as I pinch them in they get fairly tight so it should work ? no bubbles in my skins !
Guy