Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: soy on January 03, 2012, 02:33:33 am
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Money may not buy happiness but it shure dose buy snakey!!!I over paid for this semi super snake off a site that rimes with ebay...lol...said to have been drying for 1year.I chased it down to a good ring and in the morning had a bunch o dry checks took it down 1 more and than seals it real good! How long before it may be safe to work??? Oh I can't leave without letting ya all have a little peak.plan to do a little build along...also any suggestions where to get eather corn snake or Copper head skins? Thanks
(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j380/thadsoy/photobucket-2248-1325566402616.jpg)
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i think i was looking at that same stave, i have an alert set up showing me any new staves that come up for sale ::)
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Than this may ring a bell
(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j380/thadsoy/photobucket-1617-1325566476785.jpg)
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I would give it a month or 2 and then work it closer to bow size,and seal again.How bad are the worm holes ? Can you get them out of the working limb ? That one looks deep. :)
Pappy
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Yes pappy they are deep, my goal was to have a width of 1.75" however I will fall short as their is one on each side so I will prob be about 1.5"hopefully witch is just fine I recon it is just I had my hart set on the wider for cosmetic reasons...was gonna send it to u guys @twin oaks for a blessing but I figured will would have finished it ...witch I have not rule out as of yet ;D
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Sometimes it won't cause much of a problem if it isn't tunneled out where you can't see.I also sometimes back ones like that with deer rawhide. Worm holes aren't like knot holes and they will raise a splinter around the hole.I also have filled them with sawdust and supper glue and packed it in as tight As I could ,that has worked pretty well. :) :)
Pappy
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1 3/4" is a bit wide IMO. Take it real slow! Don't rush anything! Don't pust any limits!
Where are the worm holes in this stave?
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Pleeeease don't mess that one up....cus its worth a lot of money...lol :laugh: :laugh: :laugh:
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Ok the damage is from 1.5"-4"above the fade leaving 1 3/8"in width.
now the? Is do I go 1inch 3/8 and68"ntn or plan b move the handle up 4"and go 1.75 wide and 64"ttt and maby sinew back???
(http://i1082.photobucket.com/albums/j380/thadsoy/photobucket-1768-1325622766903.jpg)
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1 5/8" by 64-66" is plenty wide if your drawing 28" soybean. I have made a few a shade over 1" wide by 62-64" that still made 45-50# bows.
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Soybean. ;D
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That just means I think he is alright J-dub! Its when I quit picking that your on the bad list.
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Me too, Oyster-nut.
Man, I love this stave and I'm glad it's not mine. I would devise a way to ruin it and hate myself forever.
Keep posting, soy-boy!
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Glad to bring sunshine ;D soon I may have to put it up like a blackhawk vote plan a or b witch one cosmetic and performance will be more enjoyable ???
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WHAT!?!? Was that you that bought that stave for like 400 - 500 bucks!?!? I was watching that auction... LOL, that seller must of been grinning from ear to ear, :laugh:
"Is do I go 1inch 3/8 and68"ntn or plan b move the handle up 4"and go 1.75 wide and 64"ttt and maby sinew back???"
I'd sinew it. Either way I'd sinew just because sinew makes a better bow. Why not. Theres old sinew backed hornbows like 300 years old that still shoot. (or so I hear/read) So why not improve the performance AND extend the life of such a beautiful piece of wood?
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NO NO NO!!!! NOT that much ...however the cable bill may have to wait...darn yella wood addiction >:D
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Screw that cable bill soy! Buy another stave! Does osage grow anywhere in Minisoda?
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Oh, ok, I was trying to find that one I was talking about just now, couldn't find it though. It was a beautiful stave. A very very very snakey stave. And yet perfect alignment. Last time I checked the auction it was at 440 or something. I was just thinking, you could probably buy 10 - 15, maybe 20 staves for that much... I never find osage growing like that where I live, it seems that all I got is straight osage, ... (which I ain't complaining about!!! :laugh:). Man, I cut some osage last year, and had bug holes kinda like that. How deep do they typically go? I had a tree with about a 18" diameter, and had holes all the way to the center. Thats why I was wondering if they could be natural, like the beginning or branches or something, as they were full of real hard something? I couldn't stick nothing in it? I don't know...
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I don't know about the bugs, I thought I herd that they like the sap wood...not the case here. Im not to well versed with hedge this is my 3rd piece well forth as my second was actually 2pieces ??? And like pd pointed out I live in minisoda so I have limited access to both osage and yew and the bugs who love them ;D
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Here's a 66" osage bow that draws 60# @ 26" draw. I started at 1-3/4 fadeouts and tapered down to 5/8" tips (straight pyramid design). Be extra careful with the longitudinal grain. It can trick you. One side of center may be very different from the other side of the center line. Sometimes you have to "split the differences" to make a bow that snakey. Just be sure you have no run offs. I had a slight one on this bow and wrapped it with whitetail back sinew, for insurance. The bow is now about 15 years old and has shown no fatique.
I can help you with Prairie Rattlers or maybe a few others, if you have something to trade. I have no copperheads or corn snakes.
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That's sick matt.. ;)...n I don't have any advice and ill defer to those better than me. Good luck. If that was mine it wood prob be sitting for a long time before I touched it
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Ya, thats a really nice looking bow... I find that it's important to have the last 3rd of the bow be as in line and straight with the string as possible, and as long as thats the case, your inside limb can do whatever it wants.
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1 3/8" is plenty wide for osage, you just have to go a little deeper.
If I might add, do step back and study that baby for a while. If you get in a rush you WILL screw up. ::) We all do! ;) Look at it from all directions and angles. Study the grain on the back and sides. Get to know this stave well then deside what she wants to be. I promise she won't lie! ;)
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soy glad u got it n not me lol i went after it a bit my self didnt relize the worm holes were that bad but iv had plms w this guys wood befor thats it no more i do hope ya get a bow out of it do like pat says study it bro ha
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Thanks ??? Is 64ttt gonna b ok for 55# 26-28" draw? Im going to heed the take it slow advice and lay it out both ways to see what looks better but if shorter is going to over stress it than that will take some of the guess work out ;) and btw that is one sweet looking bow what kind o so skins r those?
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1 3/8 is plenty and normally 64 n-n would be plenty for 28,the worms are the problem,if you get them all out it will be fine but sometimes[lots of times] they go places you can't see,so I would rather be safe than sorry and make it a little longer if possible. By the way sinew won't help much on the performance on a snaky bow,it really needs to lay straight to do it's job.It will protect but if the worm holes are tunnelled under the limb nothing will really help,you will have weak spots [less wood where the tunnells are] Good luck and you have already been told slow and easy. :) :) Hope this one works out,it will be sweet for sure. :) :)
Pappy
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Thanks again pappy, I can see where they go ...I can eliminate them eather way I go but the one way I would lose it in the fades center of the handle would be 31-32"from the one end and the longer I could lose it by going narrow limbs1 3/8 "or just a touch less. Im trying to combine the coolest looking with the best performance 8)