Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: tdog on December 07, 2011, 03:22:58 pm
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How do bend through the handle bows shoot/perform as compared to a non-bending handle bow like a pyramid style? I have never built a bendy handle bow, but I really like the full draw curves - especially with flipped/recurved tips. They look like they would draw smoothly, but do they have more hand shock? Also, do you want the handle to bend in an arc to match the limbs, or does it only bend slightly?
Pics would be much appreciated also. I can learn much better with visual aids. ;D
Mark
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My full compass Yew ELB shoots beautifully, no handshock and its still pretty fast, I regularly do well at shooting 3D targets at our trad club, no reason why they can't be as accurate as a normal bow, mine is pretty light at 55lb @26 but another guy at our club has one made by the same guy who made mine and its 125 @28 and he is great at shooting that accuratly!
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I am a newby and have only built 4 bows. My first one was a 54" Mulberry bendy bow. It was a bendy because it was a short stave. It is as accurate as my other bows and I really don't notice anymore shock than the other 2 that are stiff handled. I also made a 70" plus Sassafras ELB type that bends and it shoots very smooth. None of my bows has curved tips so I don't know if that will make a difference?
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I have built my fair share of bendys from whitewood and hedge. None exceeded 60" ttt in length. I notice a touch more thump in my hand with the recurves, that is to be expected. The straight bows didnt have noticeable thumping. Handshock isnt so much design related in my opinion, it excess weight at the tips and fades/mids working too hard most often. Being shorter limbed like most are, they arent super speedsters unless you add some sinew and reflex of course. *These arent rules* - just what I have found with my own bows. Build yourself 5 or 6 of them and see what you come up with! Have fun.
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Any well designed bow of any design should shoot equally well. In most D bows its good to have the handle do less bending than the limbs.
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Thanks for the replies. PD your bendy osage recurve was one of the ones I've seen that really made me want to try that style.
Mark
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I've made lots of bendy handled bows and, in general, have not noticed any difference in handshock or performance compared to stiff handled bows.
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Even before I get to the handshock (if there is any) I notice the bow bending in my grip and it's unnerving at first! After shooting stiff handled bows for years the first bendy was a bit strange.
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I concur J-dub-yah
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tdog the other thing you asked...the handles on a bendy bow do not bend as much
as the limb. Handle usually looks stiff until the bow is drawn. At least that is my take
on the matter.
Lane
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Also(newbie question), would you tiller with a gradual thickness taper from the center of the handle area? As opposed to the uniform thickness of a pyramid bow with a straight taper in limb width. I hope I worded that right.
Mark
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Yes
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If it is well tillered with good limb timing it won't be shocky. I think bend in the handle bows shoot every bit as well or better than their rigid handled bows. Jawge
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I'm wit cha Jawge.
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I have one more thing to add. A bendy handle has to be thee easiest bow to tiller for me. I have heard many say that its harder than a rigid handle. I never found that to be so in my experineces. Fades are responsible for making or breaking many a bow, when ya aint got none they cant be stiff or hinged!
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Ive made bendy and nonbendy and gotta say that I love bendy handle bows. Seem to shoot the same to me..
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All of my bows bend through the handle. They're solid performers and since more of the limbs bend I feel like they're more durable and last longer before the wood deteriorates.
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I have one more thing to add. A bendy handle has to be thee easiest bow to tiller for me. I have heard many say that its harder than a rigid handle. I never found that to be so in my experineces. Fades are responsible for making or breaking many a bow, when ya aint got none they cant be stiff or hinged!
why do you think i exclusively make bendy handles ::)
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The handle area should only really be felt to bend slightly at full draw - anymore bend and it will be shocky. Remember it's the thickest part of the bow and should/can only bend less than the rest of the limbs without set there. Set at the handle is bad news for performance. Re. your question about limb thickness taper what matters is the layout of the limbs themselves if you go for a pyramid design then therer should be a slight thickness taper in the handle/center section then the limbs will be the same thickness to the the tips or if you go with a parrallel width for most of the limb then there will be a thickness taper and the tiller should be elliptical as the wood gets thinner (can/should bend more) towards the tips.
Hope this helps.
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The bendy handle bows I've got are great shooters. They are less tolerate of arrow spine due to the wide handle section, though, so it takes a while to match arrows to them.
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Thanks for the info guys. I have learned much. If you have any pics to post of your bendy bows, post away.
Mark
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Bend in the handle bows are easier to tiller than rigid handle bows provided the handle is the widest part of the bow. Do one and you get you BA. Tiller out a rigid handle bow and you get your MA. When you get into narrowed handled bows that bend through the fades and the handle you are approaching your PHD and you will earn it when you begin to break new ground. :) Jawge
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Bend in the handle bows are easier to tiller than rigid handle bows provided the handle is the widest part of the bow. Do one and you get you BA. Tiller out a rigid handle bow and you get your MA. When you get into narrowed handled bows that bend through the fades and the handle you are approaching your PHD and you will earn it when you begin to break new ground. :) Jawge
So according to the seasoned veteran I have my doctorate .....hahahahahahah :laugh:ahaha....yeah right...I got a long ways to go before I get that Jawge. ;)
I love the feel of my handle "giving in" right before full draw. When I tiller a bendy I tiller the fades and handle last a few inches from my target draw length,and blend it into my limbs. Dang if I keep talking im gonna talk myself into building another bendy asap....ill shut up now ;)
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Got my phD on the tree right now Jawgey! Its a 58" ttt elm static that has a narrow, thicker working handle. Of course its not fully tillered and shot in yet, so Im still in school!
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Good for you, PD and blackhawk. You completed your coursework. You only get your PHD when you "break new ground". That's for fellers like Badger, Marc and Tim Baker. Sorry. :) Jawge
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Tru Jawge...but don't forget to put yourself in that list...cus you break new ground all the time with them tomater sticks of yours....lol :laugh:.....hey...and isn't it about time for you to start whittling on some black locust? ::)....isn't it winter up there already?
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Good for you, PD and blackhawk. You completed your coursework. You only get your PHD when you "break new ground". That's for fellers like Badger, Marc and Tim Baker. Sorry. :) Jawge
Nah, I prefer to "break new bows" rather George! Im not flippin my tassle so fast!
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blackhawk, I went out this afternoon for some hunting. I have until 12/15. LOL. Like it matters. But i did see the biggest buck I've seen in 25 years. Too far for a shot. Besides how would I get a monster like that out of the woods! I'm doing a little whittling here and there but not much yet. Yup. Got my PHD in making tomato sticks. You can't beat it! Having a blast! :) Jawge
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Id like to point out,that the term "Bendy" handle is often used interchanging,with a working handle bow.A bendy handled bow,has a circular tiller,with the grip being part of that tiller.A working handle is often felt and not seen,with the grip area,being slightly stiff and only felt when at or near full draw.