Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: tradrick on July 15, 2007, 02:09:54 am
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Hey folks,new here and have'nt been to the forum in awhile.I was wondering what different materials you folks use to build a shelf out on your selfbows?I've got a piece of ceramic that looks like bone tapered down and rounded off glued on the side of the bow for a shelf.And have a leather grip laced around that.And to be honest it works great it just looks tacky.I was thinking of something with a more traditional look to it and quieter.Any advice and pictures would be appreciated.
On a side note,I would like to comment on learning something new this past week.I've always heard longer length bows are more forgiving and have better cast.I've got a 62''T/D Longbow and a 60''T/D Recurve and have'nt shot the selfbow all that much til this past week.During this time I learned I shoot the longer selfbow a good bit better than I do the other two.The selfbow is 67''long 53#@28''.And it literally shoots were I look.The only complaint I have with the selfbow is the little bit of handshock.I've tried adjusting the brace height up and down and feel I got it were it shoots best.But still have some handshock.Any suggestions?It dose'nt bother much and I can live with it if I have to.Thanks in advance for your help.tradrick
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Welcome Tradrick, Hand shock comes from several situations, limb tips too heavy, arrow too light and limbs out of time with each other. If you reduce the tip width but leave them thick you can reduce the physical weight without reducing the strength. An arrow that is 10gr per pound of draw weight or more will absorb some of the excess energy that you feel in your hand. If your tiller is off and your limbs don't recover together, you will feel it.
When I add a shelf I sometimes use a small wedge of thick shoe leather saturated with super glue. Lately I have been using Ferret's Floppy Rest and really like it. It is now my "go to" arrow rest. Mickey Lotz(the Ferret) has a web site that explains how to make this simple rest.
If you wrap the forward end of your feathers you can shoot off your hand. Pat
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Hi Tradrick, I'm not the most accomplished bowyer, but I have tried making shelfs out of 2 or three layers of thick tooling leather and then carved to shape and glued to the side of the bow. It makes a nice quiet shelf and, if tapered from top to bottom on the outside edge, it can be easily covered with the handle wrap. I actually prefer a floppy shelf made from a piece of suede or buckskin that is simply tied to the bow or tucked into the top of the handle wrap. The "shelf" flops over the top of the knuckle and will keep bow hand placement consistant and protect the knuckle from the arrow. (Probably the same as Ferret's suggestion.) A couple of months ago there was a bow ( named triceratops) posted here with a horn arrow shelf. The horn shelf looked great, but was probably too noisy for hunting. M-P
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I've used antler tine, various woods, glued up leather but so far my hand seems to be the quitest and most stable.
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I use pieces of leather too. See Making a Leather Handle for Your Bow on my site. Jawge
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we also shoot longbows off of our knuckle ...leather handle wrap extends above grip for soft strike plate ...better make sure the leading edges of your fletching is wrapped down smoothly , or you'll have scars ... like me ....
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I mostly shoot off my hand, but when I make a bow for other people, I glue a couple of pieces of leather on the side and shape that down for a shelf as everyone else said. :)
Sean
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I've been using the Ferret "floppy" rest since I started (3 bows now...) and it's quick and simple to make and works well.
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I am with Dana on this one.I like to carve a shelf out of bone antler or wood. Or any natural material would work. Then just glue the rest where you want it.
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A buddy of mine uses a single, thick piece of leather as an arrow rest, which works fine so long as you cant the bow slightly....
only stated so folks know how simple an arrow rest can be.
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Thanks for everyones input.I like the pieces of shoe leather and stripes of thinner leather glued together idea.George thanks for your website I've refrenced it several times.Its also were I learned to do the laced up leather grip.PatB the limbs on my bow could possibly be to wide or thick at the tips.There just kinda squared off with the string knocks cut in.Also,I noticed if you look down my string from tip to tip while the bow is strung the limb tips twist slightly in oppiste directions.But the string seems to go straight down the center of the bow like it should.And it shoots fine but I'm wondering if thats were the left over handshock is comeing from.I don't have any expierence in fixing a limb tip twist.And don't know if I should attempt to fix it or not.Thanks again for all ya'lls help this sight is a great learning tool.tradrick
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The limb tips are twisted at brace but are they still twisted at full draw? That is where it matters. The only way to tell proper tiller is at full draw. I don't believe the limb twist is causing the hand shock. Tip weight is probably the culprit. Also, you have to remember that you are NOT dealing with a FG bow. Wood bows are more forgiving of twists and other irregularities than a glass bow is.
On my bows I leave the tips thick(ending up with 1/2" or just under) but narrow them to 3/8" or less. Wood thickness is 8 times stronger than wood width so you can eliminate lots of physical weight by keeping them narrow but deep. Pat
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PatB I took some measurements of my limb tips.They are as follows.Upper and lower limb measurements are the same.Thickness of limbs at limb tips is 5/16''.Limb tips measured above string knocks are 5/8''wide.Limb width just below string knocks are also 5/8''wide.My bows total length unstrung is 675/8'' long.Half that length is 3313/16'' if my figureing is right.When I measure from bottom limb to get my half way length of 3313/16'' and mark it.I measured how far my shelf is from the center of the bow and it is 2''.Is this to much above center?Giveing my limb tip measurements do you recommend I take them down any?Thanks alot for your help.tradrick
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Tradrick, I'd say to reverse the measurements. Make them thicker(5/8"-1/2") and the width narrower(3/8"-5/16"). That way you still have the strength but you have eliminated the weight. A good example of what I'm suggesting is place a 2x4 on 2 blocks, 4" side down and add pressure to the middle...it will bend. Now put it on the 2" side and press...it won't bend. The strength is in the narrow, deep side noit the wider flat side...and it is the same board.
For handles, I mark the center of the bow and if my middle finger is at the middle line, the arrow pass is on top of my closed bow hand. That way the bow balances well in my hand. Pat
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PatB my middle finger does go across the middle line of the bow at the half way point.I could remove material from the limb tips to get the recommended width,should'nt be a problem.Want to make sure I understand correctly.I would only remove wood from the string knock groves to the limb tips correct.Also to get the recommended thickness would'nt that mean I would need to glue on a set of tip overlays.If so what are your recommendations?Thanks tradrick
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Ideally, you should leave the tips thick and wide from the start. When making a bow, the tips and handle areas are the last place I work before its all done. That way I can make corrections after the bow is strung for the first time or even after it is shot.
I make the last 6" of each limb tip static(non-bending) I start the taper there and go out past the string grooves. This last 6" to 8" is where the extra weight effects the hand shock. Everything beyond the string grooves is dead weight also so most of it can be reduced. There is no pressure beyond the string grooves anyway.
You probably can add long wedges to the tips(as overlays) on this bow to beef up the thinner tips. Any good hardwood will work. Make the wedges about 4" long(thick end towards the tips) and be sure the glue mating surfaces are flat and well matched for good glue adherences ....or leave this bow alone and make another using thick, narrow tips. ;D Pat
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Thanks for all your help PatB its been another learning expirence.tradrick
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After about 20 years of building wood bows I still have learning experiences ::)...but when I quit learning it will be time to plant me! ;D Pat
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I prefer shooting of my hand rather than a shelf,good job really since you dont get shelfes on the Bows i mainly shoot ;D.
If you cut the quils down and wrap them you shouldnt get any damage to your hand.
(http://img295.imageshack.us/img295/3871/dsci0003ce7.th.jpg) (http://img295.imageshack.us/my.php?image=dsci0003ce7.jpg)