Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Arrows => Topic started by: FAW on September 10, 2011, 10:10:09 am
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Having been prompted by another topic in this forum, I need to ask about a topcoat for bamboo arrows. I have been very content to make up arrows from matched, tempered bamboo shafts but have not been adding any protective coat as one would with cedar, birch, etc. Is a topcoat necessary?
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I think to answer to this is yes.
Bamboo is failry hydroscopic. Like Hickory it tends to absorb water. A good waterproof finish will help reduce this - both to slow water absorbtion and also to slow it drying out.
I've found that bamboo softens a bit in spine when it gets damp but doesn't warp like some wooden or shoot shafts. It may tend to split of it dries out quickly. A bamboo backing when fully dry will go into deflex so there is some tension going on as bamboo dries.
Frequent coatings of a natural oil based finish can work, as can a water based modern exterior waterproof varnish.
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I use Min-wax wipe-on, on my bows as well as my bamboo arrows..seems to seal them good!!
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I like the concept of "feeding the wood". I don't know if this is the best thing or not but I dip both end in Danish Oil and wipe down the shaft. When that is dry I coat with a generous coat of Shelac (I like amber from zissner). After its fletched I wipe the shafts with paste wax every so often.
I have heard that bear fat does an excellent job of water proofing as well.
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Thanks for info, Markinengland and PrarieBowyer. I guess I had better start putting a coat of something on these arrows, 'cause I really like shooting them..
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Here in the UK, I use Ronseal hard glaze floor varnish. If you boo has a good finish to begin with, one coat is usually enough to really waterproof it. Not particularly primitive, but cheap and effective.
cheers, Bob
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On some of my primitive cane arrows I don't add a finish but rely on the rind to protect them. If I sand the nodes and/or the entire cane I will add a finish and it is usually a couple of coats of Tru-Oil. I think your cane arrows will be more stable(moisture wise) if you do add a finish to slow down the hygroscopic rate.
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Pat B
Yeah, the shafts I was making into arrows looked perfect without a coat, close to what carbon looks like, so I just went ahead and made 'em into arrows. With the advice received here, I took the points off and put a clear coat of Minwax polyurethane on them to give some protection. I will be completing another dozen soon and will take care to put coat(s) on to protect them before I turn them into arrows. I have never used Tru-Oil on my arrows - is this a good product for topcoats? and how is it for drying?
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Tru oil is the best! i use about ten coats for my arrows(overachiever i know! ::)) just lay the tru oil on with your fingers one coat at a time, i usually put a coat on before i go to bed and one on before i go to work in the morning, this give a decent amount of time to let the oil dry (it may be different for you depending on the humidity where you live) lightly buff with #oooo steel wool between coats and for the final finish for hunting arrows to remove any glare. fletch them up with fletch tape and let 'em rip!