Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: david w. on June 25, 2007, 05:55:05 pm
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heres pics of my bow at full brace.
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some more
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what do you guys think?
I couldnt resist as soon as i put it on full brace i ran outside and shot it. It was awesome
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I'd lower that brace height down a couple inches, looks a bit high-especially since the left limb in the first pic still looks considerably stiffer than the right limb. Looking pretty good overall, try to get the tiller evened up before you pull it any further, or you might get a lot of set on the weaker limb.
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how do I lower brace height I coulnt get a longer string it the only one I have and I dont want to buy another one. Or will the brace height bebcome lower when I reduce the left limb? I'm ???
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There probably aren't enough twists in that string to lengthen it enough. You need a longer string, or you could shorten the bow to fit the string. If you make many bows, you'll be making strings as well so that you have options. I brace my bows with the string through the tip of my thumbnail on the fistmele measurement.
Chadwick
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David, maybe you should think about learning to make Flemish strings. It is not at all hard to do, once you figure out how reverse twisting works. A couple of rolls of D-50 in contrasting colors, or one color as well, and you are in business. Then you can make custom strings, your own tillering strings, etc. There are some threads around here that will help you. You could use linen too, if you feel a bit brave :)
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ok thanks for the help. The brace is about 6 1/2 ins just above my fistmele(isnt that what its called) It might be 6 7/8 ins. but its close. I will start making my own strings once i get into bow making.
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Yeah, lower it. But it looks good, show more pictures of it when it's done.
Sean
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David, I'll be happy to make and send you a string with one loop and a bowyers knot on the other end. You can use it on different length bows by moving the bowyers knot. That's how I make all my strings. Send me a PM with a mailing address and I'll have it out to you soon. I have red, black, yellow, white and green B-50 string material so you can even choose colors.
Your limbs are bending nicely but not together. You are over stressing the right limb and it may take more set because of it. Pat
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What Pat said right limb bending a bit more than the left. Get a few more scrapes on that left limb to even it out. This bow is looking great so far by the way, Good job! :)
-Alex
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Pat the string would be great. And thanks for the help and compliments. i cant wait to finish but i wont rush it
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Here's a tip I learned recently. Measure brace height at 2 1/2 inches out from the widest point in the fades. Mark it on each side and then measure. On asymetrical limbs (Upper longer than the Lower) measurment should be 1/8 inch greater for the upper. Even for equal lenght limbs.
Randy
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David looks good so far but unless you have completed the tiller you really shouldn't draw it back
and shoot it,if you do all that work could be for nothing.I done that also when I started but didn't take long to figure out that ant a good thing to do.Ease it out to your draw length and work the flat spots as you go till you get the weight and draw you want.Keep up the good work I just hate to see you mess it up now. :)
Pappy
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David, do you have a tillering tree which will allow you to check your draw weight at the varying draw distances as you work the tiller toward your own personal draw length? You should never draw the bow past what you want the final draw weight to be.
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David, remember, TAKE YOUR TIME. It is exciting as you see the bow emerge, but go slow now. You will be finished before you know it, as well. Bow buidling is not a speed sport. And be sure and exercise the limbs after you finish each scraping or sanding session. Pull the string back a number of times to let the wood settle into the new configuration. Kind of like schooling the wood where it is now supposed to bend, if that makes sense.
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David, do you have a tillering tree which will allow you to check your draw weight at the varying draw distances as you work the tiller toward your own personal draw length? You should never draw the bow past what you want the final draw weight to be.
I hook a fishing scale on the string and pull it to the right mark on the tillering tree
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What was the weight at what draw ?I thought you said you went from brace to shooting it
with no work in between,I must have misunderstood. ???
Pappy
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I'll bet you could untwist that string about 6 twists and the brace would be a lot better.
Pappy, that is what I understood also. Justin
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I'll bet you could untwist that string about 6 twists and the brace would be a lot better.
Pappy, that is what I understood also. Justin
I agree Justin, as long as the string is twisted enough to begin with.
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Greg, from the picture I would say it has plenty of twist to take out a few. ;) Justin
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What was the weight at what draw ?I thought you said you went from brace to shooting it
with no work in between,I must have misunderstood. ???
Pappy
sorry if I didnt explain it right. I got it tillered on low brace and once i brought it up to full I noticed the limb was stiff, but i shot it anyway I couldnt resist, but i only pulled it back about 2 inches and I was only about 1 or 2 yards away from the target
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pappy, the weight is about 35# at 22" so hopefully i can get a 40lbs bow. My draw length is 28"
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There are a few DVDs that teach how to build Flemish strings. The one that I used was called DOIN' THE TWIST and found it to be a useful tool. These guys demonstrate multiple techniques to accomplish the same task. I would recommend learning to make your own strings or at least use the bowyer's knot and a plaited loop string. Your bow looks a lot better than my first, wish I had access to this site when I started. Lots of great advice and experience. Good luck!
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If it is 35@22 you shouldn't have a problem getting 40@28 mine usually will pick up between
and 3 lbs. pr inch. so you should have at a minim 12 to15 lbs to work with so get the limbs working even and you will have a fine bow there. :)
Pappy