Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Ifrit617 on July 10, 2011, 12:07:46 am
-
Hey everyone,
I have recently finished a bow up with tru-oil (8 or 9 coats)and after putting about 700-800 shots through it I noticed some small scratches/ cracks that are only in the tru oil finish. They are only on the belly side and and appear along much of the limbs. The "scratches" are very small but there are alot of them. I am kinda perpelexed on why they are there since I have not done anything to the belly of the limb to cause them, and the bow's tiller is pretty much perfect, with no hinges to cause chrysals. Also the wood underneath the finish looks fine (and was fine before I applyed it) . I have put about 200-300 shots through the bow since I have first noticed them and It is fine and the draw weight remains the same. The small scratches feel slightly raised which doesn't seem normal for chrysals. Any Ideas on what this is? Can the finish just be doing something odd? Ill try to post some pics tomorrow if I can. Thanks.
Jon
-
If it is only in the finish you may have too much finish on the bow. I usually put 4 to 6 coats of Tru-Oil. I'm just guessing because I have never seen or heard of this before. Can you post pics?
I would remove the Tru-Oil from the belly and reapply it but with less coats and keep them light. Check the naked belly very well to be sure the frets are not there also.
-
Sounds like a plan... I'll post pics tomorrow when I get a chance.
-
How did you apply the tru-oil? I had problems with putting on too thick when I used my fingers. Someone posted here about using the small foam cosmetic wedges to apply it. I tried that and it works great. You can really get an even thin coat with the wedges. I just got done putting coat #5 on my wifes bow and it is shining like a new car.
-
I have been applying it with my fingers... It comes out pretty even but maybe it's too thick... Would the thickness cause these small cracks? It seems probable... I'll get some pics up in a couple o hours...
Also do ya think you could post a picture of one of the wedges you use to apply it?
-
I've never had a Tru-Oil finish crack like that, but I've had bows chrysal the whole length of the limbs when I've employed a design that didn't leave enough wood, i.e. the limbs were too short and/or narrow. But it will start to take set before then. What are the particulars of your bow?
-
Here you go. I bought them at walmart in the make-up section. I think they were under $2. I save gatorade bottle caps and pour the tru-oil into them. They are the perfect size.
(http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r55/clintanders/SDC13920.jpg)
-
What kind of wood is the bow made from?
-
.
-
I tried taking pics but the cracks are too small to see very well in the pics.. They run mostly diagonal on the limbs as well which I didn't think made much sense if they were chrysals...
Gordon- the bow is the red oak Molle I posted a couple of weeks ago.. It's 62" n2n 2" wide on the working limbs and the working limb is 14" long... No chrysals showed up after the 200 shots or so before I finished it so I don't think that's what it is though I could be Wrong.. Any ideas?
-
If the finish is too thick the compression forces could affect the finish just like it would the belly of the bow I would imagine. The very outside of the belly finish is where most of the stresses are.
I use my finger to apply Tru-Oil and can feel the thickness as I apply it. I work from the tips back toward the handle and don't dip my finger back into the Tru-Oil until the previous amount is spread evenly on the back, belly and sides. I also use a seperate container(small bottle cap) when applying Tru-Oil and get the original container closed and stored back on it's lid as soon as possible. I also buy Tru-Oil in the small bottles because even them the very last bit has started to solidify. I bought a larger bottle once and ended up throwing half of it away because it started gelling.
-
I used to have the same problem with tru oil drying out on me. The simple solution is to squeeze the bottle until the remaining oil is just below the neck before replacing the lid. that reduces the air pocket in the bottle and it will last longer. obviously that only works for the first two thirds or so of the bottle. Once it gets down so far, I will open a second bottle and use it until I can pour the reminants of the first bottle into it. If that makes sense. It may seem like alot of effort, but I'm cheap.
-
I've never seen diagonal cracks like that on a finish. The only diagonal cracks I've even seen on a bow would be drying cracks and those don't stay small. I could understand if there was to much finish and you getting horzional cracks I've seen this.. Haveing them the whole way up and down your limbs would mean your tillers right on. If they did this evenly.
THATS A FIRST FOR ME If you find a answer let us know.
-
Pat- your theories make the most sense to me so far.. I was thinking along those lines as well...
Just to give you all a little more info since the pics don't show the scratches clearly is that the longest of them is only about 1/4 inch long and the shortest is about 1/8 inch... They feel slightly raised and go in all directions(mostly diagonally both ways) along most of the limb...
Thanks for all the help so far...
-
Thanks Scott! I think you may have solved the mystery! That first pic shows almost exactly what mine look like and your explanation makes a lot of sense based on how I applied the tru oil... Thanks!
-
Ifrit, I would suggest that you remove the finish from the belly and shoot the bow some then feel the surface and also hold it between you and a good light source(sun works best) to see if you can see any of the "lines" in the wood itself. If not go ahead and add 4 or 5 thin coats of Tru-Oil to finish it off. Then shoot it a bunch more and see if the "lines" come back. You need to know if it is only in the finish or also in the wood.
-
Pat, I might do just that but it seems kinda pointless since if these were in the wood there wouldn't be anything that I could do about it anyways... Plus I'd be using more tru oil... None of these marks appeared on the wood before finishing after about 150-200 shots and with the stain it would be hard to tell if they were there now or not... But if I get some free time soon I might as well... Thanks for all the help..
-
Those cracks arn't diagonal. If your really like they cracks are raised then I say it is because of unfinsfhed layers and they raise up when drawed.
-
Crooketarrow- by diagonal i mean that they don't run horizontally across the limb and are slanted whey which way.... Also I'm not entirely sure what you are trying to say... Can you clarify?
-
Scot, those are chrysals. They happen because the bow is bending too much in that spot. They can be forestalled (the bow eventually will fold up on itself) by leaving the chrysals alone and removing wood from above and below. If the chrysals are on the whole limb the design is off...too narrow or too short. Been thre. Done that. Oh..another easy fix is to glue rawhide over the chrysals on the belly but only of they are localized. Jawge
-
Sorry, Ifr, those are mostly likely chrysals. Jawge
-
working limb is 14" long
That's not much working limb. I agree with George, those are most likely chrysals.
-
George maybe right but there not like chrysals I've seen.
What I think has happen and this likely wrong but as you added layers you did'nt let them completely dry.
I'm saying this because you said you could feel a slight rise in them. With the under layers not completely dry as you drew the bow at these stress points your finish buncked up. Makeing the cracks feelable (RAISED UP).
GEORGE I've only ever been able to see chrysals never been able to feel them raised up. But I've only seen them a couple times never really studyed them. SORRY ABOUT NOT WRITEING TO CLEAR ON THE OTHER POST. Likely a mental lasp. I get these all the time.
-
Thanks for clarifying crooketarrow... You may be right and I hope you are... Anyways since they are appearing on most of the limb, I will just continue to shoot this bow, either until it fails or hopefully survives... Who knows... Anyways thanks for all the help...
Jon