Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: toomanyknots on June 30, 2011, 02:36:00 pm
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...Anybody made one? I figured it would probably be a little faster than a normal wide limbed mollagabet, but probably not by much.
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ive made osage molle's but have not seen a pyramid style molle, should be fast but a molle gets its speed from the wide limb to narrow upper(blades) transition. it would be interesting to see one .
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I think if ya taper up to the levers ya got a hollmgarde instead of a molle, I think? Bub
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I think if ya taper up to the levers ya got a hollmgarde instead of a molle, I think? Bub
Me thinks you is correct.
I did some research last night and looks like what I come up with.
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yeah..i have, and it was nothing like a holmegård. Bending section was pyramide shaped and levers as deep as wide or deeper ...this is were it differes from a holmy!
It was wickedly fast, but made of hazle which could not handle the compression:(. I prefer to make semi pyramids with short levers though. Ill post one soon...and check of i have pics of some of my experiments.
Cheers
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every mollly ive built except the first was tapered or pyramid limbed
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Look on page 120 TBB4. It looks to me like what you're describing. The first one has a slight taper to the levers. The second on is pretty radical. I think I' try on of those. Heck. I can blow it up just as easy as the last couple I've made :'(
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"yeah..i have, and it was nothing like a holmegård. Bending section was pyramide shaped and levers as deep as wide or deeper"
This is kinda what I was meaning, but if made of a strong wood even more extra mass could be removed by making very thing but deep levers, as strength is in how deep the wood is. I mean like verging on 1/4" at the tips thin, but I wouldn't attempt anything like that without it being a perfectly layed out board bow, just cause of twist N such. I know what yall mean about it being like a holmegard, performance might about the same as the only difference would be round unbending tips verses thin deep unbending tips. (Coarse that depends your opinion of what a holmegard looks like, as there seems to be a little variance here) Check this though, how bout 1 1/2" limb width at the fade, pyramid tapered to 1/2" at the beginning of the lever, then gradual taper to 1/4" at the very tips of the lever. How wicked would that (recipe for broken levers) be. :)
"very mollly ive built except the first was tapered or pyramid limbed"
Woah, bout to go check out some of your posts, kewl.
"Look on page 120 TBB4. It looks to me like what you're describing. The first one has a slight taper to the levers. The second on is pretty radical. I think I' try on of those. Heck. I can blow it up just as easy as the last couple I've made"
I just blew up a mulberry, and you know what, I was happy, because at least it didn't twist up till then. Long as It don't twist I don't care. Aint nothing more infuriating than knowing you are ALMOST there, up till 26", and then twist pop the string pops off. It's not broken. But it don't work neither. At least when it brakes I know I am DONE and can take a break, or work on something else. With twist it seems the battle to correct it just never ends... ;D ;D ;D Naw, I remember seeing that bow with the thin tips your talking about in TBB, I was just thinkin about that after my first post... Make sure to post some pics if ya do end up making one!
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ed scott says he favors the hollme style and thats what lots of his bows look like
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i met ed scott at cloverdale and he checked my molle out and said i did an excellent job on it, talk about blown away, ed is the man and it sure was nice compliment from a man of his stature in the bow building world.hope yours turns out nice, im sure it will.
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I'm working on a 66" HHB pyramid that I plan to have long, narrow lever tips on. It is 66"t/t,
1 3/4" at the fades and narrows by 1/8" every 6" out each limb. The last 6" to 8" of each limb will be the rigid, narrow levers. I plan to work on it this weekend so I'll see where it takes me. :D
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sounds awesome already, cant wait to see the finished product.
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Cool, let us know how it turns out pat. I got an osage stave with the sapwood on roughed out to something like a pyramid molly right now, pretty narrow limbs. It's still got alot of drying yet to go though. At least another month. It was what was left over from a split that went wrong. If a stave gets too narrow to get a working limb at one end (or both), I guess you can try a thin tipped mollagebet I figure. I also picked up some 1 1/2" wide by 1/2" thick by 6' long pieces of red oak at menards tonight I might play around with too. About 6 bucks each also. Nice and cheap, can't beat that.
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menards red oak and hard maple boards are a nice alternative to staves when you are out of staves(myself included), hope to see your finished bow.
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toomanyknots- might have one in the pipeline if the stave decides it wants it...will keep your post in mind...
regards
v
ps man you can never have too many knots!
pps i've never worked a stave without knots - whats it like?? ;D
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"pps i've never worked a stave without knots - whats it like??"
LOL, like a board bow. It's great if ya wanna clean surface to do somethin crazy with. Me, I could do without the knots personally, lol.