Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Arrows => Topic started by: mullet on May 08, 2011, 12:52:56 am
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I'm trying to find some arrows to shoot good out of the Horn bow I got from James Parker.The bow is fluctuating between 53 and 56# depending on the heat and humidity. I'm shooting off the right side of the bow, no rest and the handle is 1 1/4".
I've tried 35/55 carbon, Tonkin #70 with 33" arrows and 125 grn points. Cane, 125# grn points, 32" 65#. And the best I found was Grizzley Sticks @ 75# barreled tapered with 125 grn points, they flew slow, but like darts.
I've got some Hill Cane I've straightened tonight, and left them at 36". I'm wanting to Bare shaft them to get them right. Can somebody get me in the ball park and save me some time?
The problem I've had with all the arrows except the Grizzley Sticks was they would swish side to side. they would still hit the target straight and where I was aiming.
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Are you using a thumb ring? I never got used to a thumb ring so shoot mine off the left side of the bow just like any other bow. Thumg ring might help the release.
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Steve, yea, I'm shooting a thumb ring. And I've gotten pretty used to it. I hit 16 out of 20 targets at the Tenn. Classic trying it on the range.
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Steve....He's using a Thumb Ring and shooting from the right side....Good Luck Eddie...that's a lot of Riser to shoot around...you are going to get a lot of Parallax...as long as the Arrows are hitting straight...not angled left or right....and hitting point of aim what more can You ask for?
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Guess we posted at the same time!!
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Mike, I shoot through heavy brush down here sometimes. I have very small openings and an arrow sliding back and forth, not staightening up quick will slap off the grape vines and other brush.
i want an arrow that will straighten up right after it leaves the bow.
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The Only Arrow I can get to shoot straight through my Hun Horse Bow with little to no Parallax are Carbon Express CXL250's....but these are Fat Shafts....but also very responsive...I used to use these in the Tri-State Competition Shoots with my Bowtech...when I used to Shoot for them...
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I don't have a problem with any of my other horse bows. And James said he might have to work with me on throwing my left hand? But, I really think shooting a tapered shaft will help a lot.
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Eddie, the hill cane has a pretty good amount of taper and that and the canes weight forwardness ( ???) might help with the problem. Plus cane has pretty fast recovery time. If you need some larger(diameter and length) canes I can probably find a few along the creek.
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Pat, thanks, but I think what you gave me should work. They are about 4' long and it gives me a lot to work with. I was kinda hoping Art would come on and give me the magic answer. ;D
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If anyone knows, Art knows!...and he knows and loves hill cane! ;)
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James traded me some Japanese arrow bamboo and some of it is too stiff for my bows. Maybe that's the tonkin you were talking about? Anyway, you're welcome to it if it would help. It is quite long.
George
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Hi Eddie, just saw this. This is something new to me so I may not be much help. Never shot one of those contraptions, much less used a thumb ring.
First thing I noticed is that a loose grip won't help much since the bow isn't being moved away from the palm, but rather into it shooting off the right side. Is that what James is referring to by "throwing the left hand"?
I agree, longer tapered shafts will help a lot. The Japanese boo has one of the faster taper I've seen and would be a good match for that width handle.
Just curious, how are you orienting the nodes?
You do know that you need a "LEFT-HANDED" arrow for that bow don't you? :o Art
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Hi Art. I think throwing or pushing the bow is moving it forward at the release. I've placed the nodes or stiff side against the handle.
I've been shooting the Jap arrow boo arrows I got from you about 2 years ago with a 55# spline and they aren't working. I straightened six hill cane shafts last night so I'm going to try and work an arrow up with it.
What do you mean by a left hand arrow?
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Most times a shift will have several stiff sides which needs to be oriented correctly for best flight Eddie. Sometimes we can do everything right on these natural shafts and they still don't fly right. Doesn't mean we done anything wrong, just that it's particular oriention may be better suited for the opposite hand. Orient a shaft for a right-handed shooter and it may not fly very well for a left-handed shooter.
Just like cedar arrows, you orient the rifts/runout/fletching correctly for one hand, and a opposite handed shooter flips the arrow over screwing up that oriention. So yeah, you would make up cedar shafts with runouts for the hand to be used. Same for natural shaft arrow made from hardwood shoots or cane/boo. Here you're orienting the stiff/weak sides instead of runouts. You however get the same effects, oriention gets screwed up.
So those right-handed boo arrows I made for you will probably not shoot as well as they could.......Art
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Eddie, the part of the node with the furrows or indentation should be at the 12 and 6 o'clock position......Art
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Is that what James is referring to by "throwing the left hand"?
I thihnk it might mean the technique used in kyudo where the left hand is jerked outward as the string pushes the arrow along?
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That "swishing" motion is generally caused in cane/boo arrows from the alternating weak/stiff sides of the nodes. Getting the leaf stem scar to the 6 and 12 o'clock should take care of that problem.
To find the correct spine for cane/boo, I would start with the arrow spine being the same poundage of the bow, and 2-3" longer using a 125 gr point. Then shorten from there.
Is the bow weight you mentioned at 28" Eddie, or longer?
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Art, this is what I was hoping for. I have the nodes positioned at 9 0'clock, against the handle. The bow is pulling 54# at 31". That is what I'm drawing with a Thumb ring.
Hatch, you are correct, that is what I meant.
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I am told By Thomas Duvenay that with thumb ring a shaft should be 20# higher than the same bow shot with finger release. I imagine that 85-90# or even 90-95# would thus be what you need. If your arrow length is greater than 31 inches you might need to add something like 5# per inch of extra arrow length. Hope this helps.
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Thanks Mark, Maybe that is why the 55/75#, heavy Grizzly Stick carbon shoots perfect out of it. It is also tapered. I just don't want to hunt with carbons unless I have to.
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You would need a 69# @ 28" to be spined 54# @ 31" Eddie. Natural taper of cane/boo arrows will account for the need of a 10-15# lighter spined arrow for that width handle.
So, if you make your arrows 32" long, w/125gr point, 70-75# spine should get you in the ball park if my math is right. Art
PS Just read Mark's reply, and if what he says is correct, try either Tonkin or the Japanese boo to get the higher spine.
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Thak you Art. That is what I was looking for. I've got two dozen, nice, straight tonkin shafts I got from Mark.
And, I should position the stiff side at 12 or 6 o'clock? I always thought it went towards the handle.
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On most boo/canes I've made up the "side" of the leaf stem area is generally the stiffer side. But on the hill cane (and a few of the others), seems to be the exact opposite, the leaf scar area is stronger. No matter though, still need to orient the "side" of the node to the bow because of the alternating nodes.
So forget about stiff sides Eddie, that can be misleading. On the tonkin shafts, just place those little dimples of the the leaf stem scars at the 6 and 12 o'clock position and you're good to go. Let us know how that works for you......Art
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Thanks, Art.