Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Flintknapping => Topic started by: iowabow on March 14, 2011, 01:43:46 pm
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What would you do for a hunting notch on this point? I see so many different styles in your opinion which would work best for deer hunting. My arrow shaft are about 5/16th.
(http://i1205.photobucket.com/albums/bb423/Iowabow1/1300111562743.jpg)
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anytime you notch a head you create a barb and make that point illegal if the state law says "no barbs". when i use a notch i use side notches, easy and simple. i had a d.e.p. officer and a state policeman both look at my equipment one day and they didnt say a word about the barbs i had on the points. they just thought it was cool i was hunting with primitive equipment.
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I'd go with #1 or the one to right of #6. ;D
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Hey John: I like the side notchers for hunting due to the barb regulations. I heard last year that barbs aren't in the books anymore so may go with anything. But game laws generally depict the type notches you do as Jamie said..
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I'd go with #1 or the one to right of #6. ;D
Is that coming from the feller what specializes in mass production of #2 and #5 style points? ;D
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#2 or#5 are my favorite style of heads for hunting. I notch them just deep enough so that the hafting sinew nearly fills the notch. The side-notch points are a lot more stable and harder to loosen than corner-notched points, IMO.
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I ditto what Hillbilly said
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i would used stem style points if it was me
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I'm a number 2 kind of guy.
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We know Eddie, don't remind us. ;D
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Ok here is what I am going to try tomorrow a side notch with a narrow entry. This is not real thin but I am going to give it a go. Thanks for all of the input it really helps.
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Well a lot of frustration trying to do the narrow entry thing. I was able to make a good entry but as I was wideding the inside I keep knocking off the ears and tabs. I was being real careful but the piece would rotate and catch the tool so I am going to practice on scrap before I try it again. The. Up side is that I am very happy with the final point and it should be a great hunting arrowhead. My goal is to make 100 grain points and this one came in at 99.
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I'm not a fan of #1 style, 2-6 all look & have preformed well for me.
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Sorry forgot to post picture
(http://i1205.photobucket.com/albums/bb423/Iowabow1/2011-03-15073721.jpg)
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looks god to me,i would put it on a stick
and poke something with it
as far as that narrow entry notching goes(i am no expert as i have to do it succesfully myself)
but once you start the notch,i find for me atleast
if you work from below the stone,with the tool tip pointing up into the notch,then pop the flake
the tool doesnt contact the side as easily(unless i twist it or my shakey hands interfer) and i dont blow off the shoulders as easy
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8)
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Sailor that sounds like the ticket. I knocked them off 4 times. On youtube they make it look easy. I guess I have to keep trying I can't expect to get it right first time. I just need to find the right hold and pop the flake off without knocking the ears ans tabs off in the process. I think I will do as you said and come more from below. If anyone else has ideas it would be great to hear them. Thank you.
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I liike useing side nocks on my hunting heads.
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Looks like a dang fine point to me.
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The only stone point that broke on contact with an animal that I have shot was stemmed. The junction of shaft and stone is usually where the pont breaks, the various side or corner notches have more and wider stone there and are less likely to break. I no longer use obsidion any more either. Bill
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Good lookin point.
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Thank you for all the encouragement and information very interesting. Bill that was good to know info on points breaking.
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i second what bill said. most of the stemmed points i used broke at the stem. many during practice shots into soft foam.
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When you say stemmed are you taking about points made like number 1
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yes. and without the barbs too
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I could see how the tab and ears could act like a rudder. They may help to stabilize the point as it passes through the animal. They extend past the point off effort so it could be a physics thing as well as a mass issue.
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I love the info! What kind of rock is the point? looks real good.
Micah
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I have never used a basal notch point so I don't know if it is better than a stemmed point. I suspect that it will be about as strong, simply because where you attach the shaft,the stone stem is narrow.
FWIW, probably 80% of the points I find are stemmed, so stemmed worked for a long time. Bill
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bill, your right
stemmed points have been around for a long long time
and they are quit effeictive and sturdy
many many many many artifact stemmed points have been found on the continent
intact and still fully fucntional
i done see why anyone would think they would be inferior
if,when making a stemmed point,your cross section is right
it will be quit sturdy and stand up to hunting situations
i mentioned they would be my style of choice
i said it simply because that is one style that cant be misinterpeted as "barbed"
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This is high ridge burlington
I love the info! What kind of rock is the point? looks real good.
Micah