Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Elktracker on March 10, 2011, 02:32:47 pm
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After reading on here while doing a search something about setting your knock point 3/8 to 1/2" higher than 90 it has me wondering if I havent been doing this wrong all allong, I usually preffer to knock my arrow bellow my knock point on the string. Then I have always just taken a normal square off the string with the arrow knocked to the arrow resting point and tie my knock point when the arrow is square to the string. All of the bows I have built thus far I find center measure 1" up for arrow the rest and three down from center giving me my 4" grip not sure if this matters as far as where I place my knock point on my string? Am I doing this wrong? If so how should I be doing this or how do you do it? hope this isnt too confuseing Thanks
Josh
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Good question Josh...one I was going to ask but felt rather silly for not knowing the answer too. I have an Aluminum T type tool that I used with my old compound bow and was wondering if this same tool would work for a selfbow? Hopefully someone will chime in with all the juicy details ;D
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Theoretically it would make sense to have the nock point exactly in line with the arrow rest at 90 degrees from the string...
But that's only if you have a softish arrow rest.
Us hardy English fellows ;) shoot our longbows off the knuckle, which can get gouged by the quill of the lower fletching as it leaves the bow.
The cure for this is to raise the nocking point just enough for the back end of the arrow to clear the hand as it leaves the bow.
Raise it too much and it will porpoise.
Having the nocking point too low is also likely to cause porpoising.
Like most of this stuff I think experimentation is the best way to find out. also taking it to extremes may also illustrate what happens. so if you nock 2 inches low and then let the bow down slowly you will see what the arrow has to do to get away.
Del
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Ya I felt stupid asking but I would have felt more stupid if I sent out my trade bow and couldnt even tie a knock on the string in the correct place :o ;D kinda scarry lol
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thanks Del I shoot off the hand as well so I guess I will just mess with knock high a bit and see how that works.
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thanks Del I shoot off the hand as well so I guess I will just mess with knock high a bit and see how that works.
I s'pose if you knock low it would force the arrow head high and at the moment the arrow leaves the string that could cause the tail of the arrow to spring upward and miss your knuckle too?
Without a high speed video camera it's anyones' guess what actually happens.
Bottom line is, it's down to the individual archer. A while back I set a ELB up just right for me, but the guy who had it adjusted the nocking point up a tad to suit how he liked it.
Del
(It amuses me that those target archers with their modenr centreshot bow with magnesium allow and carbon limbs still go rambling on and on about 'paradox', when there isn't really any on their bows, they are just tuneing the arrow to suit their release (the 'proof' of this is that the compound guys with their mechanical releases don't suffer as much.... dunno why they don't go the whole hog and get crossbows >:D ;))
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;D
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When I set up the nock point on the string I go 3/8" above horizontal and use a standard bow square to measure it. From there I will sometimes play with this to find a sweet spot where I get the best arrow flight. I have always nocked my arrows on top of the string nock so my results will be different from those who nock under(probably the majority).
Also when I set my arrow pass I grasp the bows handle with the center of the bow(symetrical layout) in the center of my hand and make a mark on the bow at top of my hand. With the bow square on this mark, I go 3/8" above horizontal on the string and place the string nock there.
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I make my nocking index (glue saturated thread wrapped around the string to make a small bump) so that the arrow is nocked above it, not below it. I don't think this is "normal", but it works for me. The nocking point is also a hair above being perpendicular to the arrow rest because I read somewhere that it was better to have the arrow nocked a little bit high than a little bit low.
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When I set up the nock point on the string I go 3/8" above horizontal and use a standard bow square to measure it. From there I will sometimes play with this to find a sweet spot where I get the best arrow flight. I have always nocked my arrows on top of the string nock so my results will be different from those who nock under(probably the majority).
Also when I set my arrow pass I grasp the bows handle with the center of the bow(symetrical layout) in the center of my hand and make a mark on the bow at top of my hand. With the bow square on this mark, I go 3/8" above horizontal on the string and place the string nock there.
I bind two bits of waxed thread so the arrow sits between them... does that count as over or under? ::)
Del
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That's only with two arrows, Del! :D One with a blunt and one with a broadhead. ;)
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Ya I felt stupid asking but I would have felt more stupid if I sent out my trade bow and couldnt even tie a knock on the string in the correct place :o ;D kinda scarry lol
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Yup, you and me both Josh! I still need to learn how to make a string so you may be already leaving me in the dust. ???
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Thanks guys for the info. Im not sure what the difference is between knocking your arrow above or below your knock point, I just do it because I noticed thats how Strunk does it, I will have to ask him if there is a benifit to one over the other. I have noticed when I knock my arrow bellow the string knock point the arrow doesnt tend to slide up the string when im not holding it with the hand I draw with. Thanks again for the info and if anyone else would like to share there method or any other info please do.
Josh
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I usally dont use any !!
It drives the technos crazy !!!
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Josh, most hunters nock under for the same reason, to keep the arrow on the string while on stand. Years ago I read that in the 40s and 50s when most American hunters used back quivers they would nock over because it was a fast way to load without looking. Draw an arrow, lay it on the string, draw and shoot...repeat over and over again until your quiver is empty of your quarry was dead. ;D They also would make one of the ears of the arrow nock shorter than the other as an index for proper arrow orientation.
While I am on stand my bow is across my lap, an arrow is nocked and my hand on the string. I've been caught unprepared too many times so I'm aways ready while on stand now.
I don't use a nocking point on my "primitive" bows either. I go by feel.
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Thanks for that Pat, good to know
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All selfbows nock alittle above center. How much depends on the bow the arrow spine and the way you release. Mosty arrow spine. You just have to watch arrow flight untill you have the spot where the best arrow flight for your arrow spline. Then I've always used dental or sinew to make a bump on each side as well as sirving up the middle so my nocks a snug.
I 'm with PAT I learned along time ago NEVER EVER not have your bow in your hand. We don't have heavy compounds to hold. Where we need a holder or sling. When a shot dose present itself you have to take advange of it.
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I find this rather interesting. When I shot my compound, I used tied-on nocks and a loop. With my recurve and longbows, I shoot them with a brass nock and have the arrow rest underneath the pinched-on nock. I never thought to use a tied-on nock for some reason...
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See of this helps. Jawge
http://georgeandjoni.home.comcast.net/~georgeandjoni/
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Ya I felt stupid asking but I would have felt more stupid if I sent out my trade bow and couldnt even tie a knock on the string in the correct place :o ;D kinda scarry lol
Josh, I'm not personally going to put a nock point on the bow I build for the trade. I feel that, because of slight differences in form and brace hight, the proper nocking point needs to be placed by the recipient. Also while on the topic, the brace height will probably need to be tuned from what I prefer by the new owner. I like about 5" to 5 1'4" from the handle to the string..........that'd slap the poo out of someones wrist if they have a slightly bigger hand or different shaped arm.
Darcy :)
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del, if you only have room between your two nocking points for one arrow, how do you shoot two arrows robin hood(kevin costner) style?
lol
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Ya I felt stupid asking but I would have felt more stupid if I sent out my trade bow and couldnt even tie a knock on the string in the correct place :o ;D kinda scarry lol
Josh, I'm not personally going to put a nock point on the bow I build for the trade. I feel that, because of slight differences in form and brace hight, the proper nocking point needs to be placed by the recipient. Also while on the topic, the brace height will probably need to be tuned from what I prefer by the new owner. I like about 5" to 5 1'4" from the handle to the string..........that'd slap the poo out of someones wrist if they have a slightly bigger hand or different shaped arm.
Darcy :)
Good point I will probably do the same now that you bring up those good points. Thanks
Josh
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del, if you only have room between your two nocking points for one arrow, how do you shoot two arrows robin hood(kevin costner) style?
lol
I just fetch the Chinese repeating crossbow ;D.
http://s411.photobucket.com/albums/pp195/Del_the_Cat/?action=view¤t=repeater.mp4 (http://s411.photobucket.com/albums/pp195/Del_the_Cat/?action=view¤t=repeater.mp4)
I had to shoot pretty quick to get 'em all away before the end of the video ::)
Del
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I will sometimes shoot thru paper and try to get the arrow from flipping. Other times, I will Broadhead tune to find the right place.
If I start seeing the right place is below 90degrees, I know I got my tiller screwed up.