Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: fishfinder401 on February 24, 2011, 01:56:04 pm
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im new to this wood and was going to get a board to use and was wondering if 21.60 would be a good price for a 3-1/2 in wide, 1 in thick and 8ft long board
thanks
noel
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I think that is about what I get it for. There would be alot of bows in that piece as ipe can handle being very narrow. Make sure you back it with either hickory or bamboo. I have made Ipe bows as narrow as one inch. (around 50 lbs.) I would get it if it were knot free and the grain looked halfway decent. take a damp rag with you when you go to get the board so you can wipe it to see the grain. Some boards it is hard to see the grain.
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I think that's slightly higher than what I pay locally, but not bad. $21 is much less than most staves. If you split it down the middle and make ELB style bows, that's only $10.50 a bow! If you resaw it into belly strips you'll be paying only~ $5 per strip. That all sounds pretty good to me. Ipe is so dense that it works best to make fairly narrow bows. 1" to 1 1/8" wide works for me, but others have made bows as narrow as 3/4".
Of course all that is predicated on the board having good straight grain. Some boards definitely have swirls and run off. The grain can be hard to read, so even the best boards are probably best backed with something to prevent lifting splinters.
Ron
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I think that is about what I get it for. There would be alot of bows in that piece as ipe can handle being very narrow. Make sure you back it with either hickory or bamboo. I have made Ipe bows as narrow as one inch. (around 50 lbs.) I would get it if it were knot free and the grain looked halfway decent. take a damp rag with you when you go to get the board so you can wipe it to see the grain. Some boards it is hard to see the grain.
i was planning n backing it with maple and the linen, and it is going to be a 150-160lb warbow, so im guessing 1-13/4 - 2 wide and 80+long
thanks
noel
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First off 1 3/4" to 2" is too wide for an ipe bow and I don't think maple will handle the kind of weight you are want to achieve. Like I said last night, contact the guys on the War Bow thread and see what they recommend. There are very few guys here on the "Bows" thread that deal with bows that heavy.
You really need to do more research on war bows, charactoristics of different woods and different designs before you jump into this. How many heavy bows have you built? Will you post pics of any heavy bows you have done so we can see at what level you are working?
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First off 1 3/4" to 2" is too wide for an ipe bow and I don't think maple will handle the kind of weight you are want to achieve. Like I said last night, contact the guys on the War Bow thread and see what they recommend. There are very few guys here on the "Bows" thread that deal with bows that heavy.
You really need to do more research on war bows, charactoristics of different woods and different designs before you jump into this. How many heavy bows have you built? Will you post pics of any heavy bows you have done so we can see at what level you are working?
the heavy bows i have made so far are really only worth it for strength training, and im going to see if i can get hickory locally, i haven't seen it, but i did find ipe so maybe ;D
the point of this topic was more to see if the price for ipe i found was good or not, not really to talk about the design of the bow, ill keep everyone updated with this bow that i'm planing on making with pics, by the way, since i am just showing the bow when i do that, should i keep it on the bow area, or post it on the warbow thread because of the weight/;
thanks
noel
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also, like i think i have said before, i like to plan with extra , just in case i mess up while working on it on one side of something like that, when i comes down to it, i don't really trust myself with a small margin of error that much and like room to mess up
thanks
noel
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Noel;
You need to let your fingers do some walking on the Key Board and learn a little something. You are bouncing all over the place. Have you made a bow yet that is a "shooter"? And I'm not talking about from a green branch. There isnothing wrong with Branch bows, but, Ipe is quite a step up.Ipe is not beginner wood unless you have a good income and don't care about the money you wasted on backing strips.
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ive been reading all of your posts/topics
you claimed to have made all these heavy weight bows(wether they be for training or shooting)
and yet you have no idea on designs,tips size,woods etc
and yet on january 26th(i believe that was the date) you stated your were new to bow building
so have you progressed this far that rapidly or are just boosting your own ego?
not trying to be mean,just trying to understand :-\
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That is not a bad price. I just purchased a 1"x4"x12' ipe board and it was $39.16 with tax. Or $3.05 a foot. I purchased a 1"x9"x6' board a while back and it was rite around $60 with tax.
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Noel;
You need to let your fingers do some walking on the Key Board and learn a little something. You are bouncing all over the place. Have you made a bow yet that is a "shooter"? And I'm not talking about from a green branch. There isnothing wrong with Branch bows, but, Ipe is quite a step up.Ipe is not beginner wood unless you have a good income and don't care about the money you wasted on backing strips.
i have made shooter bows, its mostly just the last 2 that aren't, the second t last would have been, but i need to reinforce the tips because they are splitting
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ive been reading all of your posts/topics
you claimed to have made all these heavy weight bows(wether they be for training or shooting)
and yet you have no idea on designs,tips size,woods etc
and yet on january 26th(i believe that was the date) you stated your were new to bow building
so have you progressed this far that rapidly or are just boosting your own ego?
not trying to be mean,just trying to understand :-\
i think i might have misspoken, i have made a few heavy weight bows, but yes i need to still work on the designs, i also haven't worked with many different types of wood, so in trying to use different types i am running into problems,
also yes i have progressed pretty rapidly, only because i have had experience working with my hands for a while and i spent a little to much time on bows and too little on homework lately
hope this clears thing up a little
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im just wondering, how did this go from me asking whether this is a good price to examining and critiquing my plans, dont get me wrong, this is definitly helping me, i'm just curious on how it switched topic so much ???
beetlebailey1977, thanks, you pretty much gave me the answer i was lookig for
thanks everyone for your wealth of knowledge, and caring enough to attempt to steer this stouburn teenager to the right dimensions and techniques ;D
thanks again for the help
noel
PS: if something doesn't make sense, tell me, i sometimes have problems getting whats going on in the mess of my mind into comprehensible sentences ;D
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You are welcome.
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At 1' wide you'll get 3 bows out of it That's the size of the one i made for Rich
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At 1' wide you'll get 3 bows out of it That's the size of the one i made for Rich
how thick should the lamination of ipe be, as the board is 1in thick?
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The one that was to Rich started out as a 3/4 thick x 1 wide
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The one that was to Rich started out as a 3/4 thick x 1 wide
in the finished bow, how thick was the ipe lamination, and how heavy of a bow was it?
thanks
noel
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This may not answer your question but to give you a idea of how a little amount of this wood can make a very heavy bow I just glued up a boo backed Ipe bow I havent started takeing wood off yet just band sawed down to a starting point and I can barely get it to budge at all with push pull method. Its 66" long, limbs are 1 1/8 wide tapering to 3/8 at the tips the (thickness) of just the ipe is 1/2" off of the grip at the widest part of the limb to 3/8 at the tips, I dont think I would have a problem easily building a 100# bow at my draw length 24" if I wanted to pull that much weight, but im only going for 60# or so, so I will have to remove a good bit of wood throughout the tillering process. Also you can see my boo backing is tapered from 3/16 at the grip to just a hair more than a 1/16 at the tips so its really not adding much to it being so stiff. Just want to give you an idea of how little is needed for a heavy bow. sorry the pictures arent great ;D
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This may not answer your question but to give you a idea of how a little amount of this wood can make a very heavy bow I just glued up a boo backed Ipe bow I havent started takeing wood off yet just band sawed down to a starting point and I can barely get it to budge at all with push pull method. Its 66" long, limbs are 1 1/8 wide tapering to 3/8 at the tips the (thickness) of just the ipe is 1/2" off of the grip at the widest part of the limb to 3/8 at the tips, I dont think I would have a problem easily building a 100# bow at my draw length 24" if I wanted to pull that much weight, but im only going for 60# or so, so I will have to remove a good bit of wood throughout the tillering process. Also you can see my boo backing is tapered from 3/16 at the grip to just a hair more than a 1/16 at the tips so its really not adding much to it being so stiff. Just want to give you an idea of how little is needed for a heavy bow. sorry the pictures arent great ;D
thanks for showing me that, i guess i underestimated how dense ipe really is, as i haven't actually gotten my hands on any yet, i cant wait to try to use some though. how are its characteristics compared to Osage, thats what i have mostly used so far, with a few exceptions. good luck on that bow, it sounds like it will turn out great, know if i could only find a way to launch a fishing lure out with an arrow my life would be complete ;D
thanks everyone for all the advice
noel