Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Arrows => Topic started by: toomanyknots on February 20, 2011, 03:11:56 pm
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Well I usually whip my arrows, and will always whip the little front part just to make sure I dont get a arrow threw my hand like some people on here have talked about ( :o ), so I also brush the whippings in glue as well, as if you don't they wear down pretty fast and break. I use normal ol titebond 3 on arrows that are just for playing around with or will see lots of hard use, and it works great reallly. (After like 4 or 5 coats.) Sometimes the front part chips, but no big deal, just put some more on if I care about it. Usually don't as it's just a beat up stump shooter anyhow. Only thing about it is the dark brown color. I wanted to make some arrows where the shaft section under the fletchings were painted and glue over the whipping to protect it, but still see the painted shaft underneath. Heres some glues that dry clear, and have a good amount of open time to allow for brushing on.
I was wondering if anybody had any experience with either of these glues...
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I use super glue. It dries clear and fast! ;D
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Do you paint it on with a brush? Wouldn't it dry to fast? Well, apparently not, since you use it, :)
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I put it on the wrap and use my finger to smooth it out. As long as it is wet you won't stick to it.
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try this, i use it for building rods, and once its dry, it will stand up to mast things and dries very clear
fish, it is against another rule to post a link to a site that is not a sponsor of PA. Maybe you should take a minute and read the rules!
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Howdy, I use super glue as well. I use a piece of plastic bag to smooth the glue after I put a few drops on the binding. You can re-coat in a short while and build quite smooth a perfectly clear film. I usually just use the drop on liquid, but at least one maker has a brush on super glue. Ron
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The brush on super glue works well too. The stuff I have is a light purple coloe but dries clear. A light sanding with very fine sandpaper between coats will make a solid , secure band of your wraps.
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Sweet. Will definitely try superglue.
"it is against another rule to post a link to a site that is not a sponsor of PA. Maybe you should take a minute and read the rules!"
Sorry.
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I didn't even look at those. ::) I will delete them. In the future you can give the company name and a discription of the item just no direct link to companies that are not sponsor.
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The brush on super glue works well too. The stuff I have is a light purple coloe but dries clear. A light sanding with very fine sandpaper between coats will make a solid , secure band of your wraps.
sorry, i just was trying to show a product, not really the site, ill remember that for next time, thanks for letting me know
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You can also have folks contact you for more info. ;)
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After you've completly finished your arrow buy a can of varafane spray your whole arrow. Never had it where off not to primitive but a good sealer.
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I wrap the fletch with art. sinew or sinew. When I fletch with Duco I coat with same. When I fletch with sinew I coat with hide glue. Jawge
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I usually use supper glue,I put it on with my finger and wipe my finger off on my paints,then get yelled at by Miss Joanie ,What is that stuff on your paints.I say the same that that is on my finger as I chew it off the tip of my finger. ;) ;D ;D
Pappy
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i am with George,i also use ducco.it has a longer working time and dries clear.hope this helps,steve
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I use clear fingernail polish on mine. It works well on unwaxed thread and ok on waxed thread. I do however think i might try the super glue for comparisson.
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I just use standard PVA glue, the white stuff. It is not rated as water proof but it takes more than a little dampness to soften it and if your arrows have got that wet and stayed that way for long enough to effect the glue then you have more troubles than a bit of sticky glue on your bindings.
Craig.
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I'm sure other glues work well. The thing I like about super glue is the fact that it "builds" quickly to form a thick hard coat that can be easily smoothed by light sanding. Ron