Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: dragonman on February 13, 2011, 06:44:19 pm
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I just saw a bow here on the PA that was cleverly made from the salvaged limbs of broken bows. I just made a boo/back/belly that hinged right out of the fades, so I thought why not try the same? so I cut off the limbs at the hinge, the rest of the limbs looked good. My question is what is the best wat to connect them to the handle, I've never tried this before. I guess 2 bolts ,but wont the bolt heads cut into the boo and/or weaken the limbs putting holes through them? Maybe someone has tried this or knows of any usefull links. Thanks in advance for any help is gratefully appreciated
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I would suggest talking to Bingham products. They have limb bolts for takedowns and have been most helpfull to me when I have had questions.
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thanks Bevan, I think you where answering my post as I was answering yours!!!, I'll google them, but I think they're in the US , I'm in the UK and not patient enough to order bolts from them. Good idea though, didnt think of buying the right bolts!!!?, they must be available over here too.
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Have you tried Quicks? They have shops listed in Hampshire, Near London, Devon, & Leicester. I used to order stuff from them several years ago. Seemed like good folks.
Bevan
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there is a chance they will sell them , I'l try , thanks
Dave
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I would PM James Parker, robustus. He has already made that style of bow and sells it. I shot the hog with it in this Feb/Mar issue.
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on that salvaged bow I posted I ripped the handle and installed tee nuts glued back together with a accent strip between the two pieces, the tee nuts cost about 40 cents each, on the boo perhaps a hardwood overlay like on the tips, Bub
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I'm not an expert in take downs, but I think it have to be a strong non bending part after the fade. On this one the most stressed area is not looking strong enough.
Here is some pics from Marc album (schould find here http://www.ironwoodbowyer.com/)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Marc-St-Louis/Takedowns/BBO%20RD%20Bow/Takedown.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v355/Marc-St-Louis/Takedowns/BBO%20RD%20Bow/26r.jpg)
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Man I have GOT to try this! Here I was thinking that takedown like this could only be done with FG. :P
I have some awesome riser woods and half of a bamboo clum still. ;)
Bevan
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thanks for the help guys,
Mullet,I've asked James for help many times but he never responds,dont think he likes me for some reason?
Bubby, dont suppose you could explain further' tee nuts glued together with an accent strip' not sure what teenuts are...
Fusizoli, youre right , thanks, I'm gonna have to reinforce that area, thanks for the pic. nice bow,good job you pointed that out , I'm glad I asked.
Dave
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Dave, here's a pic of a tee nut and overlays on limbs and of the accent strip. I predrill my holes to the depth of the strip, then saw it out on my bandsaw, countersink bottom of holes and tap in the tee nuts, sand the saw lines out to a good fit and glue the three pieces together, work's well and easy on the wallet, hope this helps, Bub(http://i623.pho[IMG]http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt320/bubncheryl/Picture006.jpg)tobucket.com/albums/tt320/bubncheryl/Picture006.jpg[/IMG]
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(http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt320/bubncheryl/Picture006.jpg)
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sorry about the blurry tee nut pic, but ya can tell what it is ,Bub(http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt320/bubncheryl/100_2728.jpg)
(http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt320/bubncheryl/100_2727.jpg)
(http://i623.photobucket.com/albums/tt320/bubncheryl/100_2726.jpg)
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Bubby,
Are the t-nuts in the riser? It looks from your pics that the limb bolts do not go all the way through, is that right? Very cool bow by the way. What the limbs mad from if I might pry? :)
Bevan
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yeah Bevan the tee nuts are in the rizer, if ya start from the belly of the bow limbs it go's, walnut with tee nut in bottom of hole, hickory and walnut, the limb's are maple, white oak, maple, the belly cuys off of some pyramid bows, I rip them on a tablesaw to thestart of the fades and finnish with a hand saw, don't really have the $ to waste the wood glued them up, sanded the edges down and they drew 54#. better than burn'n them, Bub
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That is so much more of what I want in a TD than the glass stuff. And I have all the stuff I need to do it (well maybe a little short on time and a lot short on skill) but it looks like a future project for sure!! 8)
Bevan
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Bevan, not that had, just a little thinking, heck I didn't even build a jig to split the rizer, just took my time and went slow and easy, I'm shure you can get it, lot's a luck, Bub
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I would assume that when you calculated (or whatever) the riser split, you already had a bolt length in mind so you knew roughly where the t-nut had to go? Taking into account the limb & overlay thickness of course.
Bevan
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I'd glue a wood strip to reinforce the bending area where the bolts are.
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yeah I figured the length of the bolt and limb thickness with the overlay on the limbs, and the washers, you can make a wood accent washer with a 1" holesaw, 1" washer and 1/2" washernut them up together , put in a drill motor and sand it down to the size of the washers, Bub
aznboi3644, I think I mentioned that point also
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thanks for the pics Bubby, that gives me more idea how to go about it, I need to put an overlay over the bolted area and look for some good bolts,
Dave
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thanks for the pics Bubby, that gives me more idea how to go about it, I need to put an overlay over the bolted area and look for some good bolts,
Dave
Dragonman, I'm thinking brass for when I do mine.
Bevan
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Bevan, I was also thinking of brass bolts ;D, not sure where to get them yet, but would look cool, better than steel.. Good luck with yours, I'll keep you posted how mine goes
Dave
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you guy's should be able to get the brass at any good hardware store