Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Marc St Louis on December 02, 2010, 10:11:40 am
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I've seen a few threads here where people recommend a bow stringer for bracing their bows. Some of these stringers are fine but others can seriously damage a bow. Personally there's only 2 methods listed above that I approve with any of my bows and that is the push/pull and the 2 cup stringer. The step though method is alright also if done properly but not one I recommend.
Comments are welcome
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i use push pull on straight limbs, 2 cup stringer on recurve.i also have the 2 post levers fastened in on a post in my basement i use alot at home. i feel it is the safest.dont see them much.
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Marc, I'm currently using a cup stringer because I gave away my rubber pad stringer with the last bow. I'm curious why you wouldn't approve of the pad stringer; for me the pad stringer seems less hassle and maybe more reliable on a bow with short or small tips, whereas a cup might completely cover the nock grooves when fully inserted. Just wondering...
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The rubber pad stringer puts uneven bend pressure on the limbs - at least that's how it looks to me ???
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Hi Marc, I use the push-pull method for all my straight bows, but the step through for my recurves. I've got a couple of different stringers, but rarely use them. Still when I teach beginners, I always push the use of stringers as the safest way to string recurves, for both the bow and the archer.
Ron
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Marc, I'm currently using a cup stringer because I gave away my rubber pad stringer with the last bow. I'm curious why you wouldn't approve of the pad stringer; for me the pad stringer seems less hassle and maybe more reliable on a bow with short or small tips, whereas a cup might completely cover the nock grooves when fully inserted. Just wondering...
See Jeff's reply
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I always use push-pull for ELBs and flatbows, and step-thru for my wooden recurve "curly bow". Seems to work the best for me. I did use a pocket and saddle stringer for a <cough>FG recurve when I first started shooting, but never since. I didnt like how it loaded the limbs unevenly....If I were to step up to a heavy bow, I would probably use a two-loop ELB stringer.
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i can't do the push/pull method because i'm too weak :(
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2 cup stringer. Sometimes push/pull on straight bows, but not often because I leave the stringer on to protect the tips, so the stringer is on the bow already when it comes out of the bow sock.
Also, when selling a bow, I give no warranty if the customer doesn't use a 2 cup stringer.
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I've been known to put one end on the ground, press my knee or even foot (On my f/glass & rock maple Asiatic recurve ) onto the grip and pull back an the other end to slip the string on.
If people tell me "That's not how to string a bow" I give them one of Mrs Cat's 'hard stares' :o and tell 'em I made it so I know how to string it.
Do whatever works for you I say, I daresay if I had a bow with V thin flat limbs and a ton of recurve I might use a stringer.
Del
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Almost never use a stringer. Push pull if I can if not I step through.
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I never use a stringer. I will step through on bows over 80#.
Del. You can do whatever you want with your own bows. How would you feel though if you made a bow for someone and they broke it because of improper stringing? Would you feel inclined to replace it?
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youngbower - hang in there, the more you shoot, the easier it gets. I'm 39 and a burly 210 lbs, and it took me awhile to do my mid 50's bows push-pull when I started out. ;)
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I never use a stringer. I will step through on bows over 80#.
Del. You can do whatever you want with your own bows. How would you feel though if you made a bow for someone and they broke it because of improper stringing? Would you feel inclined to replace it?
Absolutely not! When I deliver bows, a very specific and explicit set of instructions goes with it. Among those is how to string it with push/pull.
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OK, I'll bite.. what's bad about using a stringer? Be merciful, I'm new to this. ;D
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Shoeman
I didn't say they were all bad. The 2 cup stringers are fine. The sliding limb stringers are the worst you can use. They break/ruin bows
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Can you explain why? ???
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I never use a stringer. I will step through on bows over 80#.
Del. You can do whatever you want with your own bows. How would you feel though if you made a bow for someone and they broke it because of improper stringing? Would you feel inclined to replace it?
No, of course not.
I was trying to say that it's about the person doing it as much as the method, most methods are open to abuse.
A bit like your comment on sliding limb stringers, the stringers don't break bows, it's the person using them.
I just a baaaad kitty :'(
Del
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Marc,
The first time I saw someone use that style of stringer, I thought it put disproportionate limb pressure on the bow, but never questioned it. Your the first person I've seen to knock it, which validates my original thoughts ;)
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So using a simple string in the nocks long enough to reach both with plenty of slack is bad? It looks like it stresses the bow less than a full draw would. That's what i don't understand.
Geoff
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I never use a stringer. I will step through on bows over 80#.
Del. You can do whatever you want with your own bows. How would you feel though if you made a bow for someone and they broke it because of improper stringing? Would you feel inclined to replace it?
Absolutely not! When I deliver bows, a very specific and explicit set of instructions goes with it. Among those is how to string it with push/pull.
Adam (or anyone else that sells their bows) - I'm just curious how you would deal with someone who purchased a bow from you and then proceeded to damage it by using it incorrectly, but denies doing anything wrong (not implying that your bows would break!)? There's really no way to prove one way or the other, so if you were to guarantee your bow for say, a year, would you be stuck with the repair or building a replacement bow?
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I can see your thinking on the slidding rubber, but when I string my 73" elb the upper limb is 2" longer than the lower limb, so the angle from center is about the same; in addition, a person can always shift the bow in hand forward or backwards a couple inches. Considering the bow will only be stressed to approximately brace heigth and only for a couple seconds, the onus of the damage seems to lie with the person stringing the bow. Yea, if I mis-instructed someone on how to string a bow after I had sold/given to him, and it broke as a result, I would feel obligated to replace it.
We stick bowyers are a rare breed, and have to live and die by our convictions :)
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.... I would feel obligated to replace it.
We stick bowyers are a rare breed, and have to live and die by our convictions :)
ARRRGHHH AAARGGGH and thrice AAARRRGHHH... that word 'obligated' is one of my pet hates
... what a horrid constuction, there is a perfectly good word 'Obliged', much shorter and sounds nicer.
Sorry it's just my pedantic Englishness, but you guys have a habit of reconstructing words backwards. In this case you seem to go back from obligation to 'obligated'.
Doesn't obliged sound nicer...?
Sorry I'll go and hide in my secret cat nest :-[.
(Jolly bad show old chap ;) )
Del
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So using a simple string in the nocks long enough to reach both with plenty of slack is bad? It looks like it stresses the bow less than a full draw would. That's what i don't understand.
Geoff
Geoff
You should re-read what I said
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.... I would feel obligated to replace it.
We stick bowyers are a rare breed, and have to live and die by our convictions :)
ARRRGHHH AAARGGGH and thrice AAARRRGHHH... that word 'obligated' is one of my pet hates
... what a horrid constuction, there is a perfectly good word 'Obliged', much shorter and sounds nicer.
Sorry it's just my pedantic Englishness, but you guys have a habit of reconstructing words backwards. In this case you seem to go back from obligation to 'obligated'.
Doesn't obliged sound nicer...?
Sorry I'll go and hide in my secret cat nest :-[.
(Jolly bad show old chap ;) )
Del
Let's not pick on the use/misuse of the English language now as others can always find something wrong with the pickers use of the language
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To me, obligated and obliged mean two different things. To be obligated means that I have a responsibility to do so. It means that I HAVE to do it. Obliged means that I took a fancy to doing it, but not that I had a responsibility to do so. I know that I wasn't obligated to post this, but I felt obliged to.
Interesting take on it.
It must be a US vs UK usage thing, to me 'Obliged' means you MUST do it (eg by law)... Who was it said we are two nations, separated by a common languge? (or somesuch)
@ Mark, it's just an observation, made hopefully with some humour, I don't mean to hi jack the thread or offend anyone. Just pencil it in as a Brit thing... (the clue is in my signature)
Del
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US didn't create the usage rather the UK dropped the usage. It seems Scotland still uses it, but who cares bout them right ;)
So about stringing them bows.....
Is there any historical use of bow stringers?
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Del, we have tended to re-write the spoken word in this country; but then again we know the rank between major and general is "kernal".
re-gress: to go back
pro-gress: to go forward
di-gress: to turn aside
con-gress: ?
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So using a simple string in the nocks long enough to reach both with plenty of slack is bad? It looks like it stresses the bow less than a full draw would. That's what i don't understand.
Geoff
Geoff
You should re-read what I said
I have, but I'm still confused. Not knowing what a sliding limb stringer is may be part of my problem.
Bottom line for me is am I OK to use a simple string (two loops and about 6-8" longer than my bows) or am I going to break one?
Sorry to be slow on the uptake. I'm all new to this and trying to learn fast.
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A sliding stringer has a cup at one end and the other end has a piece of plastic that fits around the other limb that is supposed to slide down the limb as you brace the bow.
If your loops fit on the tips then you are fine with that
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Phew! Thanks Marc.
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I use the 2 cup (?) and shape the nocks accordingly to fit it. These are tiny "shoes" not cups. I used the 2 push pull but then I had 2 umbilical hernia operations and stopped. The step through makes me cringe now but I used to use it. I heard of a guy that injured his privates using the step through when the bow broke. If you are using the push pull you will stress one of the limbs more unless you initiate the stringing process by grabbing the handle. I've seen guys grab the bow several inches above the handle and then string it up. Also, if you use the push pull look down not at the upper nock so you don't get poked in the eye. I've seen that too. :) Jawge
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Any pictures for us newbies? ??? I aint got a clue !
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Here are pictures of the different type of stringers. The first one is a 2 boot stringer, next a pressure pad stringer and the last a sliding limb stringer
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I made the mistake many years ago, step through stringing on a Paul Comstock , "Stone Age" bow, he had built for me.
It changed the tiller on the bottom limb. I now shoot the bow upside down!
Use push pull on longbows and cup stringers on my recurves!
I'm sure alot of good bows have been damaged by stringing.
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Guess the rubber pad stringer is what I have been referring to as slidding limb stringer-- definately not the same thing. Thanks for the pics Mark.
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Check this out for a min-how-to on a stringer. It's about half way down with Greg.
http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,1430.60.html
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I use the push pull on straight bows and the step through on recurves. I started using the step through when I was a kid. I'm probably taking a chance on damaging a bow, but it's what I'm used to. I had a cup stinger once, it was just one more thing I couldn't find when I needed it.
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Check this out for a min-how-to on a stringer. It's about half way down with Greg.
http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,1430.60.html
That's nice Jeff but Greg is actually a bit off with his stringer. If you look closely the string is shorter on the top limb than the bottom limb. If you use a stringer you are better off to use 1 foot dead centre of the cord
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This is my favorite type. I put little bits of tissue inside the upper shoe so that the nock grooves are exposed when stringing. Also, I shape the nocks to fit. Jawge
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I use what jawge posted i string with one foot in the middle, in a pinch i use the step through method, and sometimes when i unstring the bow i usie the push/pull method, i think the stringer jawge posted is best for the bow, i have a mark on the center of the stringer so i know where to place my foot.
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My favorite type also Jawge. Art B
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I push, pull when I can, or use a stringer like Georges when it will fit the nocks or use the one with a cup and rubber piece on the limb if it won't. I couldn't vote, won't let me pick 3.
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I selected "sliding", because my first stringer is a cup or pocket on one end, and an inch and a half wide leather strap on the other end. It's long enough that I can slide it out nearly to the nock before I start pulling, because the uneven pressure prospect worried me.
What I use the most is a long string, served on both ends, with double nocks on the limb tips. My sense of balance makes me uncomfortable with the step through method, though I still do it, now and then.
Frode
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You can also do the step through by sitting on the floor or in a chair. You have a little more control that way.
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The key to using the step through is to make sure to place the handle on the back of your thigh and to pull on the upper limb in line with the lower limb
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when I first started making wooden bows I used a sliding rubber pad style stringer( that I used on my FG bow) to string a bow and broke it, they obviously are not suitable for delicately balanced wooden bows and apply uneven pressures on the limbs, which is obvious to see when you look at it them in operation.... I have also seen many people stress a bow just as unevenly using both the step thru and push/pull method. Both of these methods require care, skill and practice to perform properly....in my opinion... A stringer that pullls the limbs equally with the foot in the middle is the only totally safe method and even then they must fit the tips properly,......
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When using the push/pull method be sure your hands are not wet. Mine were and they slipped off and I cracked a cheek bone. I also wore the impression of the limb tip stamped in my face for 2 weeks.
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I have also managed to whack myself in the face when my hand slipped off unbracing a bow like this....
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Scott. Never tried it that way ;D
I used the step through for years until someone told me it was bad to do >:( So I switched to push pull which I really dont like. I dont know why but it's really awkward for me to string a bow with the push pull. I'm not weak either. Shooting high poundage is no trouble but I dont like to string them. I use a two cup stringer to string them and I unstring with the push /pull For some reason unstringing is no trouble ???
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The step through can be bad if you don't do it properly but there's nothing wrong with it if done the right way.
There are some custom glass bowyers out there that will NOT guarantee their bows if you use a sliding limb string, something for you guys that use them to think about.
You can be sure that if you use a stringer that puts uneven pressure on the limbs as you brace it then you are damaging your bow.
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Not trying to be arguementative, but when you use the push- pull method, doesn't your top hand start at the same spot as the rubber pad when you push?
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I use the step through. Put the handle directly behind my knee with my leg bent. Then with one tip at my ankle and the other in my right hand I straighten my leg and slip the string on with my left hand.
I will often unstring bows using the push pull method, although I also do it backwards like Scott. I can't do it the right way...like Jesse I find it very awkward.
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I guess I string "Backwards" - thought that was standard, though
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klandaght,
You are right, but a lot of people do not use it right, also. I slide the rubberpad up the limb just like you would the push/pull till my fingers encounter the string. Then I slide both to the nock.
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Not trying to be arguementative, but when you use the push- pull method, doesn't your top hand start at the same spot as the rubber pad when you push?
The key word here is "start". With the push/pull you hand not only slides up the limb as you apply pressure the lower limb is also under your instep by at least a couple inches. With the rubber pad stringer the lower cup is right on the very tip of the bow and the pad is several inches down from the nock and stays there. This is quite contrary to how the bow was tillered and shifts a great deal of energy to the lower limb.
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I voted that I use the push/pull, but I sort of do it backwards. When I first read how to do it, I didn't understand correctly. This is what I do.....I block the bottom tip by putting it on my shoe, I hold the handle in my right hand with the back facing away from me and I have the upper limb in my left hand at the string. I push the handle away from me and pull the top limb tip toward me while sliding the string up until it's braced. Since I learned that I was doing it wrong, I have tried to do it the "right" way but it just doesn't feel natural to me so I have just continued doing it backwards. I've never slipped, but if I did, the limb would harmlessly (to me, not necessarily the bow) fly forward and not hurt me. Anything wrong with doing it this way? Does anyone else do it backwards?
I'm a backwards stringer too. I guess I had the same misunderstanding, since I just now realized I've been doing it backwards. I usually use the step-through and I have to use it on my 75 pounder. I never had an issue with it for myself, but I suspect my kids may have ruined the bottom limb of one of my bows by doing it improperly. Next time I build one, it will be shaped for a stringer.
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I used the push pull for years 1000's of times.Untill one morning when I got out of the truck ot go hunting with a friend..And went to strig my bow I broke about 2 inchs of the tip off.We were going to stay all day.
So i told my friend to go a head and hunt the morning wqe were surpose to hunt all day.But after setting there a few minites.I got my knife out and carved a nock swisted up my string.A few shots to chane my nocking point.Left a note.ANd killed a doe that evening.
YOU'VE GOT TO LOVE SELFBOWS
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I used the push pull for years 1000's of times.Untill one morning when I got out of the truck ot go hunting with a friend..And went to strig my bow I broke about 2 inchs of the tip off.We were going to stay all day.
So i told my friend to go a head and hunt the morning wqe were surpose to hunt all day.But after setting there a few minites.I got my knife out and carved a nock swisted up my string.A few shots to chane my nocking point.Left a note.ANd killed a doe that evening.
YOU'VE GOT TO LOVE SELFBOWS
Unfortunately many people don't know how to do the push/pull properly either and step down hard on the tip when bracing the bow. That will break the tip off or at the very least damage it. Only your heel should rest on the ground.
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You should use the side of your foot.To pull againest it.Not the tip.Be smart use a stringer.
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My bow collection is very diverse. Some bows I push/pull, and some I use a Thunderhorn "rubber pad" stringer. I have thought about the apparent uneven pressure on the limbs, but I keep the pad as close to the string loop as possible before stringing, which in my mind is not harmful to the bow for the very brief moment the stringer is being used. I have had the cup style stringer come off a limb tip a few times when it is almost strung. In those cases the nock had just enough time to catch the string, otherwise I would have lost control of the bow and who knows how that might have turned out. Yikes.
By the way, I know a man who was using the push/pull method and overshot the tip which resulted in hitting and destroying his left eyeball. Be careful.
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By the way, I know a man who was using the push/pull method and overshot the tip which resulted in hitting and destroying his left eyeball. Be careful.
That's why I turn my face away slightly from the tip when using the push pull method - it would so easy to take out an eye if you slipped.
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You should use the side of your foot.To pull againest it.Not the tip.Be smart use a stringer.
If you use a pressure pad stringer or a sliding limb stringer then you are not being smart at all
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I've found this thread extremely helpful and I want to thank all who put in their two cents. I have been struggling along with one of those pressure pad stringers for a couple of years. I have built about a dozen re/de BBI and getting a string on anything over 60 lbs was so difficult with the stringer I was using I almost gave up. I bought two useless pad stringers, a recurve and a longbow from 3 Rivers and just couldn't get them to function. After reading this tread I cut off both rubber pads, retied a pocket from the longbow stringer where the pad was on the recurve stringer and I have now one stringer with two pockets. I put some leather in the small pocket to build it out so I could slip the string into a nock and presto!!! It actually works like a charm. Thank you all.
Why in the hell do our supporting retailers still sell stringers that do not work?
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I use a long stringer with a simple loop tied at each end. I add a second, shallow stringer nock on one of the bow tips, and leave the other as normal. There's enough room in the single nock for the stringer to fit securely along with the bowstring. Here's a pic:
(http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/isaacscr/Trad%20Gang%20Trade%20Bow%202010/HPIM3868.jpg)
(http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/isaacscr/Trad%20Gang%20Trade%20Bow%202010/HPIM3855.jpg)
(http://i984.photobucket.com/albums/ae321/isaacscr/Bow%20for%20Ryan%20Means/HPIM4497.jpg)
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I didnt read all the replies in the thread,but will comment on 1 particular reply i saw along the way.Now,i voted,,Push/pull,it is what i use most often.I hate lookin for a stringer n it not bein near when ya need it.LOLI do use em in the shop and recomend them to customers,especially for curly bows.Curly bows have more of a tendancy to get squirelly on ya when braceing.
The reply i saw was this.....
i can't do the push/pull method because i'm too weak ,
One of my old archery mentors,many years ago,told me."If ya cant string it,you probly shouldnt be shootin it"He was referrin to straight limb bows and the Push pull method.
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I've built my (very) few bows with antler tips so I could ground the lower into the dirt/onto the floor, push my knee dead center of the handle, and palm the upper tip back while securing the string with my free right hand. I'm loading the bow evenly, but I'm not sure it would work for me if I built stronger bows. I never caught the knack of the step through or the push pull. I used to use my method guiltily until I saw photos of natives (Papuans I think) doing the same thing. My face is safe, too.
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A wiser man would use a stringer, I must admit. But I prefer the step through method. I think any way you string a bow can damage it and its all about being consistant, deliberate, and patient. I also try to remember to switch it up and string it upside down sometimes to distribute the stress. But, I picked up a 68"- 80# martin ml-14 a week ago that i "can" step through string, but then Im running for an ice pack. To add insult to injury it has the tiniest tips and there is no room for a conventioanl stringer and pressure pad stringers probably wouldnt work on such a heavy bow. So, I made my own out of some parachute cord and just tied little loops in the ends. It takes some finagling but every other method of stringing just doesnt work for this bow. ???
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Ghost Dog. That is a crazy story. Its easy to forget that bows are not toys. they are dangerous. good on ya for reminding us.
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I use the limb pad stringer where the pad looks like a little flint knapped arrow point. I forget the manufacturer, but 3Rivers sells them. I have wondered about how the uneven pressure issue, but when I use the stringer, I push the pad as far as it will go, often partway into the loop of the bow string and then I pull upwards enough to get it strung. It takes a half a second and I personally don't believe that half a second is causing any undue stress, especially since the pad is located fairly close to where the tips stiffen up on my bows. There is very little movement in those tips because they're stiff about 6 inches down, so I don't think it makes much difference. It seems to me almost like the cusp type would overly stress the limb tips. Seems like the best stringer would be some kind of thing that would use dual pads on either side just below the limb tips/nocks.
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Consider that when you make a bow it is tillered so that the string pulls back on the limbs from the tips. There is no doubt that a pressure pad stringer or a sliding limb stringer will most definitely put uneven pressure on the limbs. This uneven pressure will cause one limb, usually the lower, to be worked more than the other. The more highly stressed your bow, the more damage it will sustain. Anyone that claims that this will not harm a bow over time does not know what they are talking about or doesn't have the necessary experience to be able to tell the difference. These stringers were made for glass bows and should not be used on wood bows
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Consider that when you make a bow it is tillered so that the string pulls back on the limbs from the tips. There is no doubt that a pressure pad stringer or a sliding limb stringer will most definitely put uneven pressure on the limbs. This uneven pressure will cause one limb, usually the lower, to be worked more than the other. The more highly stressed your bow, the more damage it will sustain. Anyone that claims that this will not harm a bow over time does not know what they are talking about or doesn't have the necessary experience to be able to tell the difference. These stringers were made for glass bows and should not be used on wood bows
what he said ;D
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When I'm working in my shop I use a two post stringer on my work bench. When elsewhere, I use the push/pull method on longbows and a Selway stringer on fiberglass recurves...the type with the nylon pocket on one end and the rubber slider on the other end. Jim
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I've built my (very) few bows with antler tips so I could ground the lower into the dirt/onto the floor, push my knee dead center of the handle, and palm the upper tip back while securing the string with my free right hand. I'm loading the bow evenly, but I'm not sure it would work for me if I built stronger bows. I never caught the knack of the step through or the push pull. I used to use my method guiltily until I saw photos of natives (Papuans I think) doing the same thing. My face is safe, too.
Hey zendude, I use the knee method too especially onwide bows where the string won't slip down the limb.
Maybe it needs a proper name... the 'Dirtfloorkneepull' method about covers it ;D
Del
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I used to do it like this:
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/2011-01-25-Bow%20Stringing/indianstringingbow.jpg)
Now I just let Her do it. ;D
(http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg112/jackcrafty/2011-01-25-Bow%20Stringing/KeiraKnightleyWithBow.jpg)
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:D :D :D I'm next!