Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Around the Campfire => Topic started by: rileyconcrete on October 16, 2010, 08:47:19 pm
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Hey guys I havent been around here much lately, I have been working out in the desert, and hunting when I am home. I shot a deer a few days ago, got the hide fleshed really good and would love to braintan it. The brains of the deer are in the freezer, and ready to go, as is the hide. The thing is I would like to keep the hair on and make a quiver like the one in the mag this issue by the Paiute tribe. If you guys could give me a detailed description of your way, or PM me and I could contact you by phone I would appreciate it .
Thanks Tell
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I think you'll need to soak the hide in an astrengent like alum so the hair is set in the hide. I have never brain tanned any hide but I think I read this or heard it somewhere. ???
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I'm interested in this too. I've never tanned a hide or even made rawhide before ( I attempted it once, but didn't get very far, couldn't get the hair to slip), but I was wondering if you couldn't just dry the hide out and use it as is, or is there something that you have to do to preserve it? I would think that the stiffness of rawhide would be ideal for a quiver.
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Camaroo,
I know at this point with the hide fleshed I could stretch it and dry it and it will make great rawhide. Once dry the hide will be preserved. Now with braintan I know it is alot different. I have never braintanned anything and am really wanting to do this hide hair on. most guys slip the hair before braintaning thier hide.
Thanks Pat for the info I have read about that option, but was thinking about doing it just with the brain solution.
Tell
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I think you can just use the brain solution on the flesh side. Hide handling (moisture) I believe is important so the hair doesn't slip. Alternatively, I think you could also pickle it first with vinegar and salt (instead of the alum that Pat mentioned - same process, different ingredients) but pH is important.
Search 'braintan fur' on google. Go to the articles and tutorials sections. Lots of good articles on that site (I think part of the site is commercial, so I won't list the url - PM me if you can't find it)
PS never tanned before, just been doing lots of reading on non-modern tanning lately in preperation for hopefully getting a couple hides this fall...
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Hair-on braintan is harder than hair-off, but it'll work-Wade (N2everything) braintanned a hair-on buffalo a couple years ago. You'll probably have to rebrain several times. Get the flesh side free of membrane and stretched good, then put the brain solution on, work it in, scrape it off, and repeat. You need to get it completely soaked through the hide. The neck and rump areas are thick and hard to get good brain penetration. Be careful about getting and leaving it too wet as it'll make the hair slip. As Barrage said, there is some good info at Matt Richard's braintan site.
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You can leave the hair on and scrape it like you would rawhide and let it dry. Then rub Neet's feet oil into it and make a quiver. I've done it twice and the hair will wear off before it pulls out.
Also, if you are egg tanning, do you seperate the white from the yellow yolk? I've got a deer scrotom I want to make a soft, bullet pouch out of. :)
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Come on Eddie- you're yanking our chain ;-)
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NOPE! ;D I've used them a lot for gear shift knobs. ;)
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Eddie, i got one that I was thinking the same exact thing about. great minds think alike. ;D
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so, is it egg whites only? ;D
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tell,
get hold of me,
I havent done much but I got a couple of cats under my belt. a skunk, fox.
and yea even a buffalo.... man did that one suck.
I am 1/2 through with a second buff now and just waiting til winter to work it some more...
I wouldnt say I know much.. but I have had the ones I did come out ok.
I also have a buddy here in NC that I would consider and expert.
Send me a PM and I will give you my contact info.
later
wade
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Soooooo, can you do the same with egg??? ??? ??? ??? ::) ::) :P
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Eddie- I think you use the whole egg...
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Eddie,
I have done a couple of hides with egg.
I did use the whole egg.
In my opinion it worked but not great. Not as good as brain or chem tan.
the egg seemed not to last as long as far as leaving oils in the hide.
I suppose if you egged it initially then added some supliment after a while it would be fine... i.e., mink oil or some stuff.
it also gave it a different color and slighttly different texture than brains.
but I have heard of useing everythign from bone marrow to liver to used motor oil to bark tan in order to tan a hide.
personally I think if you stay at it long enough and work it enough you could use about anything with some lasting oil in it.
later
n2
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Thanks, Wade.
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Hey Eddie,check this out found it this morning and thought you might like it? ;)
http://jpfinn.tripod.com/braintan.html
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That site makes it sound simple, Randy. Thanks.
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Yeah i thought so too!I'm goin to try it on my first deer i get this year.I'll let you guys know how it works!!
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I'm trying a slightly different method I read online.
Scrape the flesh side 'til it's clear of all the crap. Couple of good handfuls of salt spread evenly on the flesh side. Fold the hide (hair out) so the neck covers the rump (let's call this North to South). Next tuck in any stragglers and roll the folded hide from "East to West". Tie it up loosely but securely. Stand it up somewhere, folded end UP. The salt draws the moisture out of the skin.
It was recommended to change the salt daily until the liquid stops running out of it but I got away with every couple of days.
When it's more damp than wet, hang it up somewhere airy to dry cure. The skin goes hard after a few days.
I'm at this next stage...
Re-hydrate the hide in a tub of water with a pound of salt per gallon and a cap or two of disinfectant (not sure what brands you have there but I'll be using Dettol). The skin soaks in the salt and disinfectant, killing off any remaining bacteria which was said to be the main cause of hair loss.
IMPORTANT...
When the hide has returned to the same wet consistency as when it came off the animal, rinse it out for a half hour or so (if I remember right). Hang to drip dry. When it's damp, work your tanning mixture into the flesh side. I agree that the neck and rump areas would need more work.
When I get 'round to doing my two skins, I'll post how it went.
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Hatch seems like i read that one somewhere.Let us know for sure how they turn out ;)
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Wow guys I have been gone for a week out working, and this thread turned up alot of info. Eddie, when we castrate bull calves, we just put the sack on the shifter wet and let it dry, guess that would give you a hard bullet sack. ;D
Wade I will pm you so I can get your info.
thanks guys for all the help, I will post pics and other info as I work my hide.
Tell
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Tell; I've always put them on my Jeep shifters the same way. I thought I'd make a pouch for somebodies dip this time.