Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Kitsu on October 15, 2010, 01:27:50 pm
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Been working on the tiller on my hickory shortbow, i have it bending evenly, and im still thinning more out, i started with a bit too much weight before i started tillering, and ended up with 128# at 26 inches
I am going to post a few pics later on, but as of now, I cant even pull it back normally, i can only have it pulled back full draw on the tillering stick. what would be a good draw weight to aim for in a bow i want to last a fairly long time.
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Tools used
(http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu8/HawkeyesSniper/Bows019.jpg)
(http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu8/HawkeyesSniper/Bows008.jpg)
(http://i628.photobucket.com/albums/uu8/HawkeyesSniper/Bows009.jpg)
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Am I wrong or do I see bark on the belly of the bow? ??? :o
Alan
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128#?! ??? Is that right? How long is that bow?
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Thats NUTZ........
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Hehe ;D
How long is it?
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128#?! ??? Is that right? How long is that bow?
yep, you read it right when fully drawn that is the weight, its a shame however, im not strong enough for it. Oh, also its about 4 foot when strung i am thinning it down a lot more now, hopefully this turns out good,
Am I wrong or do I see bark on the belly of the bow? ??? :o
Alan
You are not wrong, its being very stubborn, the stave dried with it on, so.... not fun to take it off, if it was a fresh cut stave, would have been much easier to remove I'm sure,
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Hawk,
Do you mean to be using the bark of the bow for the belly? The belly is usualy the inner rings of the tree, with the back being the bark, or rings closest to the bark. What you could be inadvertintly doing is putting a whole lot of reflex into your bow. I'd take it off that tree, and work it down some more to a draw weight that's better suited for you, and let it dry for a while. Then, bend it backwards (opposite the way you are bending it now). You could end up with a very fine bow. But I would NOT continue bending it the way you are bending it now. Bending wood with the bark side as the belly usually leads to failure.
CP
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Hawk,
Do you mean to be using the bark of the bow for the belly? The belly is usualy the inner rings of the tree, with the back being the bark, or rings closest to the bark. What you could be inadvertintly doing is putting a whole lot of reflex into your bow. I'd take it off that tree, and work it down some more to a draw weight that's better suited for you, and let it dry for a while. Then, bend it backwards (opposite the way you are bending it now). You could end up with a very fine bow. But I would NOT continue bending it the way you are bending it now. Bending wood with the bark side as the belly usually leads to failure.
CP
hm, alright, illl keep you posted on the results of that, (hm, my maple longbow has lasted a few thousand shots and it had the the belly as the bark side as well, thanks for that info)
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i love to see people bending the rules he he . ;) hope it works for ya.
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Hey Pard
I think I would flip the bow as well. Man that #age! Definately remove some wood. Unless you are built like Conan the barbarian, that is some serious weight to be pulling. Don't let that weapon snap on the tiller tree or you could put a piece of it through your work shop and into the next county.
I'm sure though, that will be one beautiful meat finder when you are done!
God bless
Ron
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personally i dont think there is a problem with using the bark side for the belly
as long as your still tillering (scraping,wood removal) from the belly side and not the back of the bow
when you say there is bark on the belly,do you mean the cambium layer?
or is it the actual bark?
if its the actual bark,that may lead to some issues
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I've got a better idea! Leave the bow just as it is and use it as the prod on a crossbow. Ron
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Wow! :o I want to shoot it!
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That's a neat one. But it's too heavy, even for me :D!
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personally i dont think there is a problem with using the bark side for the belly
as long as your still tillering (scraping,wood removal) from the belly side and not the back of the bow
when you say there is bark on the belly,do you mean the cambium layer?
or is it the actual bark?
if its the actual bark,that may lead to some issues
hard to really say, al i can say is that with some effort all the bark has been removed, except for the stuff by the handle which i might leave, or maybe put a design in it, i figured that that section isnt going to bend anytime soon, and a little bit of engraving would add some class, any opinions on it?
I've got a better idea! Leave the bow just as it is and use it as the prod on a crossbow. Ron
Heh, ive wanted to make one or a long time, but i dont have any ride to a store, and i am pretty sure i lack the tools required to make it, though i have made plans, i dont have the money, a method to get down to home depot for the materials, or anything to work the materials after i get them
i was thinking about that honestly, really was :P,
<rant removed>
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The center half of the bow is not bending at all...all the stress is on what looks to be 10 inch bending portions of the limbs. I'd start on another. This one may break from the overstress
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Hickory is some tuff stuff!!!
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The center half of the bow is not bending at all...all the stress is on what looks to be 10 inch bending portions of the limbs. I'd start on another. This one may break from the overstress
trust me, after what happenned with the handle i plan on starting a new one, but i got a long time to go before then :P
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Not to criticize, but why did you tiller the limbs to bend over such a small area?
It looks kinda cool, but also very dangerous... like it's ready to blow up in your face! Also I don't think you did the wood any good by pulling it to 126# when your desired draw weight is less than 70#. How much set did it take?
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Not to criticize, but why did you tiller the limbs to bend over such a small area?
It looks kinda cool, but also very dangerous... like it's ready to blow up in your face! Also I don't think you did the wood any good by pulling it to 126# when your desired draw weight is less than 70#. How much set did it take?
Its going to just become a deco bow, i know it has a risk of breaking, and i cant shoot for a while anyway, my finger has a cut on it that can easily get ripped open
didnt take much set, if i have access to the cam tomorrow, might let you see, though my dad needs it for work, so, might be out of luck, we will see then, but until then, goodnight, its midnight, heh
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Don't usually criticize anyones bow, unless someone ask,but I will have to say that is about the biggest mess I have seen in a while. You seem to think it is fine so that being the case,congrats. :)
Pappy
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And that was the "Sugar Coated" version..... ;D ;D ;D ;D....first off bending a piece of wood na award of the split can be done....if one knows what the heck is going on...but then One does NOT tiller from the Back Side of the Stave....never....Second.... them are about the scariest Hinges I have ever seen ....I believe....when the wood lifted....that should have been enough warning...that something was amok......and when the Limbs started to not return to level....One should have realized that the wood was being stressed beyond its means....I mean 120+ pounds....I too like Pappy don't like handing out criticizm....but this Bow is destined to catastrophic failure...and I hope no one is hurt....jmo...
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It's not destined for any kind of failure if he just does what I said in the first place, which is take it OFF the tree, re-tiller it evenly and bend it back the other way! He just has a hell of a reflex mid-limb is all. It's not too late!
CP
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It must be a little green. Cause I know when I was green, I took green hickory and made several bows that looked just like that one ;)
Take the string off, and those tapes, and set it aside. Come back later with some sinew, turn it around, and turn it into a little rocket launcher >:D
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Mount it on a riflestock and make a crossbow out of the beast.
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Cacatch= To retiller and turn it backwards now would lead to certain failure. 120# compression on these fibers will cause it to break when bent the other way. Sinew might save it by what you mention, but would be a waste of good sinew in my opinion.
Hawkeyes- I would set this attempt of a bow in the corner and invest in TBB1, read it over and over, especially the tillering chapter. Someday in the future, you are going to look at this bow and chuckle while shaking your head. I say this not to discourage you, but because my early attempts caused me to do this.
I applaud your eagerness. It's an infectious affliction. However, I urge you to take your time and learn the craft. I wish you all the success in bowmaking.
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Hawkeyes, I started a nice sugar coated OMG! message, but it's been lost. Let's just say I agree that the bow is bound to fail, and it might send BIG splinters is untoward directions. But, take heart! You actually got a bow on your first try. My first 3 broke during the tillering. I think that all of us on this forum are constantly working on "the next bow." The "next bow" is always going to be faster, or prettier, or just plain better. So spend a little time on research and then start again. The Bowyer's Bible series is full of info. Jawge's website has some good basic info on design and tillering, and this forum has always got a bunch of talented folks to give advice.
And after that you have the joy of learning to make arrows!
Ron
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That thing is bending like a horn composite bow!
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A couple of rules I live by while making bows:
1) Never draw past your intended weight
2) If you see a problem while tillering, fix it before continuing
Just a few helpful suggestions. ;)