Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: a finnish native on April 16, 2007, 12:25:20 pm
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so basically does anyone have any info to share from viking bows?
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We should be asking you that question! ;D Pat
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I'm at work right now, but will post a link to a Hedeby bow page with dimensions and such when I get home. Somone may beat me to it, through.
Dane
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got this link fro a finnish primitive bow site. http://www.florilegium.org/files/NORSE/Norse-archery-msg.html
seems that the bows are about 72" long and weight always over70# exept kids bows ect. D style from yew. kinga like english longbows exept for the nocks (no horn) and the draw is shorter. about 28". drawn to the chest.
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Dane, please do post the link ;)
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I'll build one as soon as someone can tell me how. This is interesting.
J. D. Duff
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I'll build one as soon as someone can tell me how. This is interesting.
J. D. Duff
Show off, ;D ;D
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Well, Justin, if it's just a primitive English longbow with no horn nocks, I think just about anyone could handle it. ;) ;D
J. D.
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Been there done that, right JD. Justin
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By the way Justin--you need to take a vacation so I can catch up with you on my number of posts. You're domination is causing some discouragement here.
J. D. Duff
PS, my apologies to a finnish native for hijacking this thread.
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Dane, please do post the link ;)
Here we are. Two links you guys might find very useful.
Dane
http://www.vikingsna.org/translations/hedeby%20bows/
http://www.vikingsna.org/translations/hedeby%20quivers/
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Awesome Dane. I'm headed to the shop. Oh, wait, I'm at work.
J. D. Duff
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Glad you liked it, JD. Making a Viking bow would be fun, and a matching quiver would not hurt either.
I love Viking stuff. Facinating culture, and great crafts and arts. The Sagas are some of the world's great vernacular literature, as well. Some archery related tales in there. One morale is, don't piss off your woman, if you want to later make a string from her hair when the enemy is coming to get you.
Dane
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thanks for the links Dane! Now I just need to find some yew..
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What is interesting is tips, which suggest heavy weights, because they are simply so bulky, that these bows dont work with low weights.
I have seen quite few "replicas" in yew and none under 60# is worth a dime as a shooter. Certainly not a bow from description of archery shootouts in Sagas.
The big bow was probably 130# and the smaller from Hedaby probably around 80#. Balindery was surelly 100# if not more...
J.
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Perhaps I'll shoot for around a 80-100# then. Man, you're right about those tips. Three times bigger than they need to be. These bows are very primitive compared to the English war bows. One thing I do like is that they were made from bough wood. I have some third-rate boughs I've been wondering what to do with. This is a perfect project for making use of knotty limbs.
J. D. Duff
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The wood on big bow is actually quite decent. I have seen it myself. They are not made from bough, but likelly from sapplings and the ringcount on these isnt bad, because the sapwood is really thin (3-5 mm). If its baltic yew such as from Polland or some stuff from north sea shore it can have good density...
Also consider that if you start with small diameter material you have much stiffer beam to wrok with. Two bows of same dimensions and wood, one from large and another small diameter stuff - small diameter can be as much as 20percent stiffer.
I have good theory where the thick tips appeared on these bows, or why and I have other early medieval bows examples with the same approach.
But enough spoilers, you got to wait for TTBB4
:D
Jaro
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I'm looking forward to your chapter Jaro. Thanks for the info on wood quality. From the pictures it's obvious that the staves aren't 'super clean' and that's all I was talking about. The boughs I have will run over 100 rings per inch up to 150-200 in some cases so density is no issue. They just aren't going to make clean-lined English long bows.
How do you think these heavy bows were braced? They have a side nock that was tied to right?
J. D. Duff
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I think they used sort of step-in method for bracing. The nocks on originals are simple cut in gooves, without any reinforcements like sinew patch under nock to avoid splitting as we see on modern replicas. The nocks are on opposite sides naturally. :)
The big bow is from only 4 cm diameter stock, the marrow chanell runs actually whole lenght in and only comes out on one end in the nock area.
The lower part of the tree is upper part of the bow, if this helps.
I dont think yew it is made of has 100 rings/inch, but it can be around 60 which is decent for european yew, which is stiffer than pacific.
The rings on big bow are not visible and the line marking the sapwood is relativelly faint.
But! I dont think they actually chased rings down on staves. They found a yew sapling on prefered soil type, which they knew will have sapwood thin (means also high ringcount), cut it down and made into bow. The back is perfectly smooth, the belly is scraped and has toolmarks.
I think that the big bow with its 191 cm of lenght and some 180 cm of effective could work well for draw of 30´´. (Or better could be tilered there). They have width taper similar to later english warbows, which makes them circular in shape.
So as I made me recently 69´´ longbow, which is 90#/30´´ from second rate yew with lots of sapwood on it, I think its doable 100# + range.
http://sweb.cz/hawkwind/myyewbow.JPG
Jaro
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Jaro,
That's a heck of a bow. Your stave doesn't look that bad at all. Did you say it was pacific yew? You should post that on the Englishwarbow.com.
Thanks for your help. I'll probably ask you more questions as I get into the project.
J. D. Duff
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No, J.D. its a bough from a bush which was buldozed under my window. Half of it is sap, one side 2´´ reflex another 2´´ deflex...and twisted too.
The braced shape looks funny.
http://sweb.cz/hawkwind/myyewbowbrace.JPG
It only comes round at fulldraw. I stopped going to warbow forum.
Jaro
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Interesting Jaro. That is a pretty rustic looking stave from the look in that pic. You sure did it justice. How much net string follow did you end up with?
I decided to use a small-diameter trunk section for this viking bow. It's about 2" at the small end and 3 1/2" at the large end. I have 76" to work with so I can nip a little off to make a fairly accurate replica. I've got the bark off and the stave blocked-out now so I'll be roughing it out today. I don't know if it will hold because there are some knots on the back. It has about 30-50 rings per inch but good density. A 2" cut-off floats flush with the surface of the water (that's a decent test isn't it?).
Thanks for your help. I'll keep people posted on a seperate thread on my progress.
J. D. Duff
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Well...set. I dont think there is really much of it...I destroyed much of the reflex in tiler and by heat and I repaired some of deflex. But the deflexed part is cast killer along with so much sapwood....
Jaro
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That's pretty hefty for only 69" :)
How wide and thick is it?
Going to make myself a elm Hedeby-replica now. Thanks for all the info folks! This was great :)
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Wow, I had no idea this link would create such excitment. Glad I'm not the only one interested in Viking bows. I wish I could recall who pointed it to me, so whoever he was, thanks.
If any of you get a chance, read about the history of Hedeby, and the people who lived and traded there. To go a-viking was not toally widespread in the Norse culture, a specific act for various reasons, and they were far from just pirates. Women had more rights, including divorce and property ownership, then the rest of Europe, and the Thing alone makes that culture worth studying.
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But as a trading centre on one end of dry road on which oxen drawn ships over 45 miles of narrowest part of juttland pennisula (ta save 700 miles trip around it) it was to raiders as honey to bees. I think it was burned out 4 times.
The danewirke (the fortified road) is interesting though.
Thats me roving on drakkar in Hedaby
http://sweb.cz/hawkwind/hedeby-lod.jpg
Last lad on the left side at row.
And this is back of yours truly, Hedaby harbour in background. :D
http://sweb.cz/hawkwind/hedeby-veslovani.jpg
Jaro
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Truly, I am jealous! Thanks so much for sharing these photos, and the comments.
Dane
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For those who have not put two and two together: Jaro will be authoring the 'War Bow' chapter in the forthcoming vol. 4 of the Bowyer's Bibles. I can't think of anyone more qualified. I for one am on the edge of my seat.
J. D. Duff
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I can think about handfull of people more qualified than me. :)
But they are too bussy shooting, than to write book...
Jaro
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Jaro, I am very much looking forward to reading your chapter. Interacting with the author will make it all the better.
Dane
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Ha, ha Jaro. Well, at least you know where you stand. ;D ;D I still stand by what I said.
Do you know of any replicas that do not have a bottom nock? The information provided above suggested that there was no bottom nock but the string was tied onto the deflexed tip and stayed there by tension. Is that possible?
J. D. Duff
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Jaro,
I can't wait to read your chapter too. The pics of you and the other men rowing, was that part of a festival ? Any other pics? That's an impressive pic shooting the bow. That had to be one heck of a bush. Do you have a close up of the bow braced?
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J.D. The big bow is the only one without one nock groove. The string can be tied there, but its rather difficult.
http://asgard.tgorod.ru/image/arr2/p7.jpg
http://asgard.tgorod.ru/image/arr2/p8.jpg
Check these two pictures. The idea is about this - you make string and put the loop above the pin, which marks correct lenght, found empirically. Then you tie the lower end. When you brace, the setup is correct and doesnt need any adjustement. This is particulary useful if you happen to break lots of strings or if you need to render the weapon shootable in combat situation quickly, which is likely the cause.
Jaro
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Jimmy, here you go, thats the picture along with my ugly wolfish face. I used deflexed part of stave for lower limb.
http://sweb.cz/hawkwind/brace1.JPG
Mind you, this is english bow, its only interesting in this debate, as its quite short for its sturdiness, such like the viing bow were.
(Short is relative word a longbow of 72´´ and 100# is relativelly short and thick piece of wood.)
Jaro
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Thanks again Jaro. I like the series of half-hitches (?) on the lower limb. I'll need to forge an iron nail as well I suppose.
J. D. Duff
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Thanks Jaro,
She definitely has a rugged " No Nonsense" look. A warriors weapon.
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hi finish native! - if you can read german you may want to buy the german 'bogenbauerbuch'; among others it has one great article about vikingbows and their dimensions. let me know.
cheers, frank
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Frank that 70# viking bow in bogenbauer buch has tiler off.
Jaro
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damn! why did I choose not to study German.. I also found a very old mein kampf from our basement.. It was printed before the second world war. I sure hope I could read German.. :'(
not that I'm a racist or anything. just interested ;)
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Worth some money these days. But have to say as reading material it would be the only book I ever thought worth using to start a fire with. ;D
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Jaro,
How long is the big bow between the nocks? 179cm? I'm making slow progress. Is there a picture of a replica with correct tiller I can work off of? I am basically going for the english war bow width taper with the tips and handles sized according to the specs in the above article. Should I go for a circular tiller with stiffer tips?
J. D. Duff
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I think that the big bow with its 191 cm of lenght and some 180 cm of effective could work well for draw of 30´´. (Or better could be tilered there). They have width taper similar to later english warbows, which makes them circular in shape.
Jaro
My mistake, you already answered my questions.
J. D. Duff