Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Jesse on April 13, 2007, 10:11:45 pm
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what is the secret with Tru oil I tried and tried and tried but I cant get a decent looking finish. It always comes out with streaks or sags or dull spots. I cant get a nice flawless finish. Ive tied using just a little, using a lot, using my finger, using a rag,nothing works for me. Please help Ive used almost a whole bottle on one bow. I'm sick of buffing it off over and over. Thanks
Jesse
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Jesse, I wonder if its the bottle you have because I can't think of anything else from what you mentioned. I have used tru oil a handfull of times with no problem.. I just wiped it on...
Rich
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Hmm, I've never had that problem with Tru-oil. I apply it with my finger - usually between 9-10 coats. The last coat I wet sand with 600 grit, then rub with fine steel wool and finally with oil and pumice. The finish always turns out beautiful.
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Thanks I dont know what Im doing wrong. Sounds easy enough. Do you use realy light coats each time or get the whole bow oiled up good? Ijust cant get the oil on thin enough for it to look smooth and by the time I try to smooth it out its allready all sticky and just gets worse and worse. lol I will try again tomorrow.
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Jesse,Try sticking your finger in the bottle and rubbing it on the wood.Like starting at one end and pushing ,like a Squeegee down the wood till your finger is dry.Just get all the wood wet,not thick.
It will dry faster this way.And then just keep repeating.Put on thin layers.The more thin layers the smoother the finish.
I like to steel wool with 000 wool lightly between each layer.If you put it on thick you will never sand the ripples out without stripping it down.This stuff is misleading ,It's not oil but a Poly.
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After the first application I use light coats. I've never had a problem with stickiness while spreading with my finger. Tru-oil has a working time of about 5 minutes - that should be plenty to create a thin film with your finger.
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Jesse, I've used tru oil for years. The only problems I've had are when I tried to put on a coat that was too heavy,and when the tru oil got older it starts to crystalize. Those crystals can get into the finish if your not careful. I put on 6-8 light coats works great...Chris
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Hmmm! Whats the temperature in your work shed? If its too low it will not form right on the bow as a finnish. I know this from experience.
David T
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Good thought David. i didn't even think of that and it will definitely make a difference.
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Yep! Chris I had that trouble with some other finnishes too. I stuck the tru oil next to a heater and it thinned up quick and then when the shed was at a better temp it went right on without a broblem. Also had trouble with a number of other finnishes too doing the same thing. They can be really temp sensitive. Check on the bottles and they should tell you the temp range to be used in.
David T
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I had some problems early on, so i started doing the fishes in the house in winter. That's one reason i use tru oil so much, low fumes. ;)
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I have had Tru-Oil go bad and start clumping up. Now I pour some in a small shallow container and reseal the bottle. I work with what has been poured out and if any is left, I do not pour it back in the bottle.
I have used Tru-Oil for a long time and most of the time I have no problems. Humidity will prevent it from setting so it stays sticky longer. The first coat on bare wood is usually heavier but after that, the thinner the better and with a rub down with 0000 steel wool between coats. Work from the handle out the limb and when done, sight down the limb while pointing it to a light source. This will show you where you might have missed.
I have always used a finger to apply. I sealed 6 hardwood shoots tonight with Tru-Oil. These will be my 3D arrows. Tru-Oil is good stuff. Keep trying. You might try a fresh bottle. Pat
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I think temp could be the problem.its at like 55 deg. It has been getting very tacky on me in less than one minute. I will try putting it by the heater next time. I think I am also using too much. I was getting frustrated as Im sure you could tell. That never helps either. Thanks
Jesse
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Don't be frustrated! I LOVE Tru Oil. Here's my experience with Yew & Vine Maple:
All coats are applied by hand and I gently stroke the bow until it starts getting tacky. That's when you know it has been spread out enough, and more importantly not too thick.
After each coat I hit it with 0000 steel wool.
After the 6th coat, I hit it with 400 grit sand paper (very lightly).
I apply two more light coats and once again stroke the bow until it gets tacky, also with 0000 steel wool in between coats.
After the final coat, I hit it with 0000 steel wool, and then 3-6 coats of Carnauba (SP?) floor wax and it you are done! The final coat looks like liquid glass and all of the tiny imperfections are removed. Very nice!
Good luck.
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Ya know there is a new Polypro hand rub finnish out these days. I think I might try it. Seems like tru oil takes way too much time to build up layers that will last, especially on arrows.
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I've noticed a couple things with Tru-Oil after a couple years of using it:
1. It has a short shelf life once it's opened. To extend this, you can add marbles to the container to keep it full as you use it.
2. The longer the container has been opened, the slower the finish will cure. I once strained some crystallized leftovers from the bottom of a couple bottles to use for arrow finish. Light coats took days to lose their tack. I bought some fresh Tru-Oil and it cured like it's supposed to.
3. I have applied it with my finger and gotten decent results. My current system is to line the bow or bows that I am finishing up in the house where they can cure quickly and evenly. I cut 8-12 patches of clean cotton cloth. I get a patch of cloth fairly wet on a folded edge with the product and then work quickly from tip to handle with long, even passes. When I reach the grip I flip the bow over and finish the other end. Then I throw the patch of cloth away and clean any of my wife's dishes I may have used before she catches me. I let coats dry for 4+ hours and buff when needed with steel wool.
The bow pictured has about 12 coats on it.
J. D. Duff
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I've kept mine in the refrigerator,It gets hot here.When it gets old like JB was talking about I add a little acetone and stir.It will thin it down.
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If you are still having trouble with the true oil or anyone else looking for a faster finish, try this. This is probably the easiest and one of the most beautiful finishes there is. Mix equal parts marine grade spar varnish, gum turpentine, and tried and true linseed oil. ( This is the only kind of linseed oil that will work because it is the only true boiled linseed and totally nontoxic) Sand bow down to at least 220 grit then wipe a heavy coat of the mix on with a cloth. Leave it until it get's almost to sticky to wipe (45min.-1.25hr depending on temp.) then rub vigorously with clean cloth until all the excess is gone and you can touch the bow without sticking. let this first coat dry 24hrs, after that you can do a coat every couple hours. When the first 24 is up lightly sand the bow with 400 grit then rub with 0000 steel wool, just to get the little bumps that raise up from the wet finish. All other coats are rubbed in with a cloth and ready to wipe after 20-40min. no other sanding is needed after the firstcoat,just rub the bow hard with a clean cloth just before putting a new coat on. Because you wipe off the excess on each coat you don't have to worry about dust or runs, and you get the look of linseed oil with the protection of marine spar varnish. 4 coats will do but 7-10 is better, then just rub in a few coats of your choice of wax. A couple of warnings- linseed oil will spontaneously combust on cloths as it dries, when you are done with a coat put all soiled cloths in water and put them outside, also if you wait too long before you rub off the excess you will have an almost impossible time getting it even, just rub it off as soon as it feels sticky. You get a fast build up, flexible, water proof finsh with minimal work, and it looks awsome.
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Jesse, I put it on a rag, like you're putting on furniture polish, light coat, then, let it dry, steel wool it, light coat, and keep doing light coats, even after 2 applications I have a shine, if you still have problems and want that tru-oil finish, use the spray, I bought it at the sporting goods store, really nice shine.
VB
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Wow I was gone for one day and I got everything I could want to know about finishing a bow> I love this site just ask a question and you get 2 pages of great answers. Wish I found you guys sooner. Thanks again
Jesse
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Here's another tip, Store your containers of finish upside down this goes for
true oil, paint, spar varnish etc. The shelf life for opened cans will be greatle extended.
I have to store all dehydrated media in our lab this way as per state requirements. It makes the container more air tight.
DanaM
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Tiller, When you find the name of that finish let us know. Always looking for the bestest you know.