Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: PeteDavis on August 17, 2010, 05:18:46 pm
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My new elm/hick has lost it's zing.
How do you guys get around damp weather?
I really want to hunt with this stuff.
PD
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first off the wood must be dried well before its a bow
then it must be sealed well after tillering
during tillering keep it dry too
then once its finished keep it in a dry area
after hunting in damp or humid weather a hot box is always a nice place to put them for day or so
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I keep my bows in the utility room(we don't have A/C), the driest room in the house. If you have A/C that helps or store them in a hot box while not in use.
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I keep my bows in the house (AC). Jawge
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Hey Pete,
Dont know exactly where ya live but here in Northern Michigan.....it's wet, a good day here is 80% and sometimes above 95% so I took to usuing a finish that's made of spruce pitch and grease. Sent some bows to a couple of people that live where it's real dry and that didn't work out very well at all (when I was using the usual oil, varnish, poly deals.) Haven't had a lick of trouble with humidity since I went to the grease. Great Lakes Natives (a lot of others as well) used the grease method for ever; they say ...."it keeps the wood elastic". From the time they are floor tillered till their done it's grease, grease, and more grease. Butif ya want the modern finishes do like the other fellas said.....make sure it's dry and stabilized, then seal the "you know what" out of it.
Just another point of view, so take it for what it's worth, eh? One other advantage of gettin greasy is I dont have any trouble huntin when it's near zero degrees and snowin like hell, even freezing rain dont bother it. Leavin 'em strung all day dont seem to bother 'em much either.
rich
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Pete,with me that's easy.When it's wet or very humid,I stick with osage.I use my whitewoods when rain is'nt in the forecast,and, it is'nt going to be super humid.JMHO God Bless
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There are no finishes that will keep moisture 100% out. So your best bet is when not shooting them keep them in a hot box at a low temp and fairly low humidiity. The wood takes a while to pick up moisture so while out hunting you should be fine and then return them after hunting. Usually in the fall and winter, the humidity isn't as big of a factor as in the summer.
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Bees wax is another good water repellent, better than the poliyies. I think grease is good because I believe it soaks into the wood a bit. Steve
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Has anyone ever tried Sno Seal for a finish? I use it on my boots by heating several applications with a heat gun.
http://www.campmor.com/sno-seal-original-beeswax-waterproofing-jar.shtml?source=CI&ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=10603WC
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I'm discusted! The hickory bow that I was just about ready to start tillering has gone all wet noodle on me. Already had it floor tillered. How do you guys do it? The stupid thing now has a bend like string follow. I have it clamped to a 2x4 with a back curve cut into it. What do I do with the thing now? I'm ready to go back to buying my bows and just making arrows and the stick bows for the kids. Is there any hope for it or is it firewood? :-[ :-[ :-[
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Hickory is very hydroscopic. Put it in a dry environment (utility room maybe) and it should dry out fine.
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i would leave it clamped down
and like Jeff said,stick it some place
some place dry that is,utility room,near an ac vent,hot box
i would leave it for a month(actually i would leave it for a year,but i am anal about such things)
i was given a sweet piece of osage last february by Sawfiler when i was in ATennesse.i scraped it to one ring and its been in that room ever since.
it will be ther for few more months,then i will start on it
i use a spare room in my basement for my bow wood,and other items i want dried well
its a smaller room,maybe12x12.i keep a dehumidifier going in that room almost 24/7
the humidity level is low in that room,near desert like humidity.
never had a problem with my hickory,hhb,osage etc etc
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Thanks guys. It's in the house now glaring at me. Is heat better than cool? I've been reading here and a new post. My garage is hot enough to boil eggs (seems like it anyhow) or in the lower humidity but way cooler house. Don't have a way to do hot and dry.
Sailordad, I don't think I could wait that long ;D I might be able to make a month but with it staring up at me???
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I don't advise clamping an already done bow. Bending it backwards can be tough on it. Just give it some time in AC or in a warm place. Jawge
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It's only been floor tillered. That's what bent it. It's still green wood. I could get out the paint stripping gun but I'd have to do that outside.
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There's a reason why osage and locust were preferred bow woods by the people living everywhere they grew, and it's not because of some mystical superiority in cast or power-it's all about that greasy oil in the wood that resists moisture.
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My preferred wood is Osage and Ipe. I also keep my bows in the house in the AC. Right now the humidity is keeping me from finishing the tiller on 5 bows. Mostly because I don't want to be soaking wet while I do it outside.
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It's only been floor tillered. That's what bent it. It's still green wood. I could get out the paint stripping gun but I'd have to do that outside.
That might be your problem.
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My new elm/hick has lost it's zing.
How do you guys get around damp weather?
I really want to hunt with this stuff.
PD
Move to a drier climate, or make 'em out of osage ;D
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If you live in a humid place, like me, Wales is just about the dampest part of the Uk, everything goes mouldy around here. Then best not to use woods like hickory that take in damp easy, use the bow wood that suits the environment, oily woods are the best, ipe doesnt seem to take in water what ever the weather. I gave up on hickory. Once its took a set only heat treating will reverse it, not bending it back, this make it worse I believe. Halfeyes recipe is better than poly varnish too, poly varnish just seals it in