Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: NTD on August 11, 2010, 01:32:30 am
-
So I picked up my favorite BBI today and I noticed something tragic. It is starting to delaminate. At first I though it might have just been a crack in the glue line but upon closer examination it's actually taken some of the wood with it. This is a straight profile with some reflex glued in(TB3). 66" long 55# @ 29" This bow has been my daily shooter for 9 months and has had thousands upon thousands of arrows put through it. I'm really torn up to see this happen. Does anyone know what can cause this. I assume I screwed up in the glue up but how specifically. Should I keep shooting it and hope it doesn't continue up the limb. I was thinking of purposely delaming the rest of it and planing down the back of the ipe and flattening the boo back up and glueing it back together. Maybe pike it by 2-3 inches so I can maybe keep some weight. Any ideas. Help me save my bow :'( (http://i95.photobucket.com/albums/l144/NDanforth83/101_1181.jpg)
-
Don't shoot it anymore as the bow will likely break. The only way I can think of fixing that is to remove the existing backing and back it again.
-
In that case do you have any tips on how to remove the snake skin in one piece before I grind off that boo?
-
I think, and this is jmo, it looks like the Ipe is the damaged wood, so I'd sacrifice the Ipe (assuming that Ipe is the "I" in BBI) and reuse the bamboo w/ backing on another bow. Easier process to remove/sacrifice the Ipe and harder to find good skins for me than bow wood.
-
Maybe cyano and a thread wrap soaked in cyano?Or sinew?How long is it and does it go all the way through to other side of limb?
-
What kind of glue did you put the skins on with?
-
The glue has done it's job fine if it's stuck to the wood.
I would say give it to one of those weird folk who want a 'looking at' bow to put on their wall but don't shoot.
Dunno how you find one of 'em thogh, we all shoot of course, but I have heard rumours of folk who don't :o ... yes really! Sad isn't it :'(.
Del
-
I agree with Almostpighunter. The glue is not the issue, but rather the ipe. I, too, would remove the ipe and prepare the boo for backing another bow.
-
Nate if you have or have access to a good bandsaw you might could split the two and resurface them for another glue up
-
Thanks guys. Gordon, I used TB3 for the skin. Ken, I don't have a bandsaw but may set this bow aside until I do.
-
NTD, you will not be able to reclaim the skins if you used TB3. You could have soaked them off after removing the finish if you had used hide glue.
-
Nate to each his own , but thats what i would do bandsaw the line and stay in the ipe , if you needed the poundage you could put a power lam in it later.
-
You won't be able to save the skins but you can heat the backing and the TBIII will release. I removed a hickory backing after calling the TB people and asked how. They said at 150deg(F) the glue will release. I used a chisel to get under the hickory backing and pried as I heated.
-
Sometimes you can repair something like that
-
Sometimes you can repair something like that
Marc, would you mind elaborating?
-
I would be willing to bet that the issue originated in the glue line. It may have been clamped to tight and caused a dry joint, but it is nearly impossible to know what caused it without delaminating the whole thing. The wood that splintered off is probably just a tiny splinter at the edge where the wood was weaker than the glue because of the sharp edge.
I would be interested to hear how Marc would fix it also, I would say it is worth a try.
-
NTD... did you make the bow yourself, or did you buy a glue-up and tiller it, or did you buy it already made?
-
You didn't say what type of glue you used. If it's TB then you don't want to use a crazy glue to try and repair it, the two don't get along very well. I find crazy glue to be a bit too brittle anyway.
In any case this is what I would do, and this has worked for me in the past. Get a slow setting, good quality epoxy that is not bothered by oily woods. Mix up a small quantity and pry the backing apart like you are doing in the picture. Heat the backing up till it's hot, not too hot that you can't keep your hand on it though. Then apply the epoxy to the crack, the heat will turn it to the consistency of water and you'll see it run into the crack. Apply as much as needed till it won't absorb any more. Then use a padded clamp and clamp the split down and release it, you'll see air bubbles come out as you clamp it. This is to make sure there's no voids inside. After you've done that a few times apply a bit more glue, just to make sure, and clamp it down and let the glue set.
-
Nate, I have repaired some like that and glass bows to by soaking thin Loc-Tite super glue down into the seperation and clamping it. Let it sit at least over night.
-
adb, I made this bow start to finish myself.
Marc, I did use TB3. Thanks for the advice, I may try that. Would G2 epoxy work?
Eddie, When you used CA did you notice a problem with the TB like Marc mentioned?
-
Nate, I haven't tried it with Titebond for the same reasons Marc said. I've done it with epoxy's and Smooth on.
-
Nate
G2 is actually the glue that I use
-
Thanks Marc,
That's why I asked about it. I've seen you mention it in your bow building articles. I just looked it up and it does not appear available in the U.S. though....
-
its a good bond when the wood breaks and not the glue line...that used to happen to me sometimes back in my subwoofer enclosure design and build days.
-
I used to build with tbb 3 also, but had too many come apart like that... ! I agree with Marc, the glue had a bad adhesive result. Every wood is different and glues react different accordingly. I have had that happen when i scored the wood to be glued up. The score lines next to the edges allowed this to happen. I also used acetone to clean oily woods. I would do exactly as Marc has suggested as I have done the same and saved bows.The next time, try Urac 185 and heat the bow in a tube with a a hairdryer or heat gun, I use a heat box. I would also use shrink wrap and DOUBLE wrap, and heat for 1 hour. you should have no glue lines and very hard clean finish.I do occassional use Smooth On ,not as much anymore..Good luck save it and shoot it.Denny
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
Thanks Denny, I use Urac 185 currently.