Primitive Archer

Main Discussion Area => Arrows => Topic started by: JustinNC on August 09, 2010, 05:47:11 pm

Title: uniformly sharpening trade points
Post by: JustinNC on August 09, 2010, 05:47:11 pm
How do you guys do it? I mean I can get the belt sander out or grinding wheel, but nothing guaranteeing me a uniform angle on both sides. I put one in the Lansky and with the extra coarse stone and about 500 strokes later, I have a perdy angle STARTED but not and EDGE.

Maybe I am being too particular and should just rough it out with the angle grinder and then finish with the Lansky.
Title: Re: uniformly sharpening trade points
Post by: Pat B on August 09, 2010, 06:16:17 pm
I'd say get your basic angle with the grinder and then let the Lansky dress it up for you.
Title: Re: uniformly sharpening trade points
Post by: JustinNC on August 09, 2010, 06:21:09 pm
Thanks Pat. Guess I over thought it and trying to be a perfectionist. It's only a point. I aint tryin to split a gnats hair at 70yds. Must be a little wheelie bowman left in me looking for perfection. I'll shake that, don't worry ;D
Title: Re: uniformly sharpening trade points
Post by: half eye on August 09, 2010, 06:38:40 pm
JustinNC,
       I'm not only old but kinda old-fashioned to boot. I was taught to sharpen my broadheads with a 10" mill-bastard file, stroking into the edge and from rear to point. From there ya can stone or hone if you want to but with a little partice them file sharp heads will really suprise ya.
       Matter of fact "true-angle" (guys that make hones) make a set of mill files attached in a wood block.....just push the 2 blade threw a couple times (both sides) and yer angles are set.....and they be mighty sharp too.
Rich
Title: Re: uniformly sharpening trade points
Post by: JustinNC on August 10, 2010, 10:26:42 am
Half eye...there is a reason things were done the way they were done, even if it is old fashioned, and 99% of those reasons were because it WORKED. I finished roughing it one out lastnight and put a 25* edge on it....guess that's a 50* cutting angle.  I think since this is just a test, I'm going to shoot it like that, see how well it penetrates, then take it down to 20/40 and see how well it does, then on down to 17/34 and see how well it does. I really want to go down to the 17/34 because you can flat out put an edge on something with a low angle like that, but just worry about chipping and bending. Will be fun to see what works best.

Here it is so far. We can't use barbed in NC, and they have to be atleast 7/8" This one is 1.5" long from tip to widest point of the head, then 1" across at the widest point. Total length is 2 2/5". Haven't gotten a weight yet.

Will also be huntin in SC as well....no restrictions on heads down there. So may do some longer more 3:1ish heads as well and make them barbed to cut out some of the weight that goes along with the thick circular saw blades.

Here's a cell phone photo...sorry for it being fuzzy
(http://i36.photobucket.com/albums/e28/treednnc/SU1HMDAwMzAtMjAxMDA4MDktMjIwMy5qcGc.jpg)
Title: Re: uniformly sharpening trade points
Post by: JustinNC on August 10, 2010, 10:28:20 am
Will also put a couple slits along the tang to help with hafting.
Title: Re: uniformly sharpening trade points
Post by: mullet on August 10, 2010, 11:07:44 am
 I put all my points on my slow turning belt sander. It is slow so the blade doesn't get hot. I have a jig made using a Lansky clamp and shower curtain hook. I start out with a course belt then follow up with finer belts. then it goes to a paper wheel with Jewelers rouge.
Title: Re: uniformly sharpening trade points
Post by: Hillbilly on August 10, 2010, 11:37:35 am
when I make trade points, I rough the edge out on the belt sander or grinder, then sharpen with a file. I don't get down and measure the exact angles, I just want it to get sharp. I like that nasty file edge for a hunting point. It'll sure draw blood from me.
Title: Re: uniformly sharpening trade points
Post by: JustinNC on August 10, 2010, 01:57:53 pm
I reckon them rocks ya'll sling aint perfectly straight razor edge sharp either, so why should these be.

Figgers, I was over thinking it. Got a hold of some of that banding steel that Jonathan C was talking about in another recent thread. A design like/close to the one he used and some wire wrapped around the tang on the shaft orta do the job! Should be a whole lot easier to work with than those circular saw blades.
Title: Re: uniformly sharpening trade points
Post by: nugget on August 10, 2010, 05:08:27 pm
Justin have you tryed the metal that I brought you? I made a cuople out of some of it and they weighed around 150 grns.
Title: Re: uniformly sharpening trade points
Post by: mullet on August 10, 2010, 06:38:10 pm
 Actually the rock is sharper. Obsidian is sharper than steel.
Title: Re: uniformly sharpening trade points
Post by: JustinNC on August 10, 2010, 06:54:57 pm
Nugget that was jonathan that you brought the steel to. I didn't get to go to that event this weekend. Had prior plans here in mooresville. He didn't say one way or the other if he'd worked it. I'm sure he'll chime in soon.
Title: Re: uniformly sharpening trade points
Post by: nugget on August 10, 2010, 08:17:37 pm
I figured he would share some of it with you. ( Sad attempt to cover my memory)  ::)
Title: Re: uniformly sharpening trade points
Post by: George Tsoukalas on August 10, 2010, 11:10:47 pm
Grinder, file, and belt sander in that order followed by a medium stone. Jawge
Title: Re: uniformly sharpening trade points
Post by: JustinNC on August 10, 2010, 11:49:50 pm
The wife was at his house tonight nugget...shoulda just had her steal me some ha. That's ok. What is it? Might have to plan a black ops covert mission one night and grab it if it's all that and a bag of chips. Nugget where bouts you live around here? Jonathan told me but I can't remember.
Title: Re: uniformly sharpening trade points
Post by: nugget on August 11, 2010, 12:02:50 am
I live in North Wilkesboro. It is about an hour from Cleveland. Come on up, I am off school till the 17th. I think this is some old leaf spring steel or from an old machete. I may have some more if your covert op dont work. >:D
Give me a call 336-928-0657
Title: Re: uniformly sharpening trade points
Post by: jonathan creason on August 11, 2010, 09:25:44 am
I haven't had a chance to cut one out of that chuck of steel, yet.  I'm hoping to give it a shot in the next couple of days, but we'll see how that goes.  Gotta get something done soon, and get them tuned up.  It's going to be nannie shooting season before you know it.

There's enough steel there for several points, if you want to try some, Justin. 
Title: Re: uniformly sharpening trade points
Post by: JustinNC on August 11, 2010, 09:55:21 am
Nah that's alright. Between the banding steel and circular saw blades, I have more than enough material than I have cut off wheels. Although I think the banding steel could be done with a good pair of shears or chisel, it might humble me though. I'm always on the lookout for something for points now. Heck I aint even got any arras cut or made to shoot the ones I got. Figger I'll work on that this fall. I suppose I have a bow, could shoot the recurve, but going to try like the devil to have a locust or hickory selfbow by spring/summer.

Nugget, I went to college with a fella from North Wilksboro, Mullberry actually, up off Yellow Banks road in the sharp S curve.

Title: Re: uniformly sharpening trade points
Post by: nugget on August 11, 2010, 10:31:38 am
Yep know where you are talking about. I am about 5 minutes or so from there.
Title: Re: uniformly sharpening trade points
Post by: jonathan creason on August 11, 2010, 11:10:40 pm
Cut one out this afternoon.  Nothing special, just a 2:1 triangle, with a rough bevel.  This arrangement tipped the scales at 266 gns.  That oughta pack a wallop!
Title: Re: uniformly sharpening trade points
Post by: nugget on August 12, 2010, 12:03:01 am
Wow That sucker will definitely leave a mark. You can always drill some holes to shed weight.
Title: Re: uniformly sharpening trade points
Post by: jonathan creason on August 12, 2010, 12:14:59 am
That's what I was thinking, a few holes to shed weight, and to use for hafting.  I'll have to clamp it down and try that tomorrow.