Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Elktracker on August 07, 2010, 10:52:33 pm
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I have a opertunity to get some Ipe boards 5/4 x4" x8' I was thinking about useing them to make a Boo backed Ipe bow or two. My question is what should the board look like as far as the grain or does it matter? Any info i can get would be great thanks
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I been outta making bows for over 6 months now but if memory serves you cant see the grain on ipe very well. being a BBI the grain, unless horribly messed up, shouldn't make a bit of difference on the compression side. If im mistaken im sure someone with more know will chime in. cheers.
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The straighter the grain and the fewer the runoffs and knots the better for bow wood. With a backing you can get away with more than with a selfbow. If the grain is OK you should cut your belly slats from the 5/4 edge. That or a bit narrower should be perfect for a boo backed ipe bow. Don't discount hickory for backings too. It and ipe make an excellent combo.
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Ipe is a weird wood. I have noticed that on really straight grain ipe that you cannot distinguish grain flow. You can however, if you have a board with run off, I'd work around that stuff. It also comes in a variety of colors,I think the darker the denser, and the less wood you need for a bow.
Don't discount osage as a baking either. ;)
I'd like to see someone sinew back the stuff? 8)........That might just be a good winter time project?
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my only warning for ipe is to watch out for the little knots! i've had funky grain work just fine, but more often than not, if it's gonna blow, it's because of a little knot.
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I always look for straight grain in Ipe. Go through the boards and find some straight grain. I take a flashlight when looking at Ipe. Another good thing about that Ipe is you can see here to dig those chocolate splinters out. You will get splinters.
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mmmmmmm, the splinters............ >:D
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Ipe is a weird wood. I have noticed that on really straight grain ipe that you cannot distinguish grain flow. You can however, if you have a board with run off, I'd work around that stuff. It also comes in a variety of colors,I think the darker the denser, and the less wood you need for a bow.
Don't discount osage as a baking either. ;)
I'd like to see someone sinew back the stuff? 8)........That might just be a good winter time project?
I agree, if you cant see the grain it is usually straight. Osage on ipe looks good too.
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Thankyou all for you very helpful replys, i will have to try a couple different backings
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Here is osage backed ipe ya get some very nice contrast.
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Drool...
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Pat B you said to cut your belly slats of the 5/4 side that seems a bit narrow does Ipe hold up well to narrow limbs? thanks
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You don't need to go much wider than 1 1/8".
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I think if you went much wider than 1 3/8" you'd be hard pressed to get a bow under 100# without it being paper thin. It's incredible how stiff this stuff is.
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yes you don't need more than 1 1/8 I have made 2 bbi thats 1 1/8 wide and 55 # @28.
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The first hickory/ipe bow I built was 1 3/4" wide at the fades and 62" long. By the time it was tillered the ipe belly was thinner than the 1/8" hickory backing and it pulled over 50#. You could easily build a 60# bow with a 3/4" wide slat of ipe backed with hickory or boo. At 1 1/4" you have room to dress up the edges! ;)
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Thank you all for your replys, you have all been more than helpfull
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You can also use a wet rag and wipe the Ipe with it and it will bring the grain out most of the time.. If you are going to pull it into R/D then the more you put in the better your grain will need to be..