Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Kegan on May 15, 2010, 08:23:09 pm
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Okay, we all know that putting a wooden handle onto a D bow will wind up with the bow popping off (the green circles- the bow is brown and the red is the handle block).
But what if leather was used to connect a curved handle block to the bow? Thick leather like top grain would compress, and there would be no sharp edges or bends to get in the way of the bow. Of course, the less the handle bends already the less leather and curve that would be needed, but still. Second picutre, leather is blue.
What do you guys think?
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I think that's a heck of a neat idea. I'd like to try it. And if you try it let us know how it turns out.
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only one way to find out.
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I have used laminated shoe leather for handle risers. On bendy handled bows it will bend along with the bow. Saturated with super glue the leather gets pretty hard but still bends. I have used shoe leather for tip overlays too.
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I used laminated cork coasters from Dollarama. Easy to shape, and bends with the wood.
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I think its an awesome idea. Even gave me an idea to use only thick leather.
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I used laminated cork coasters from Dollarama. Easy to shape, and bends with the wood.
Necessity IS the mother of invention.
Love the idea.
Ron
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that's how I've been doing it,contact cement the leather together, then shape it on the belt sander before attaching to the bow, then cover with lace on leather or wrap in hemp cord and superglue soak it
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The thing with this handle is the wood will add a little extra weight, rather than a solid leather handle which would be much lighter. I've done all leather in the past and occasionally it threw me as to how light the bow was.
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Hey Kegan I used 1/8 in laminated leather with a Wood lam under that on a D and seemed to work fine.
That Idea looks cool
but The type of glue would make a big difference keeping that yoke from popping out of that egg ;D ???
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Thanks for the input Phillip, but I never claimed to have much "paint" skills ;D
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You can laminate strips of cork using wood glue or use one thick piece. If you go this route, you can even make dished-out handles, shooting rests, etc. If you screw up or end up with something you don't like, you can sand it off and start over. it is very durable afer a few coats of poly. It is difficult, however, to get it to blend easily into the wood.
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You can laminate strips of cork using wood glue or use one thick piece. If you go this route, you can even make dished-out handles, shooting rests, etc. If you screw up or end up with something you don't like, you can sand it off and start over. it is very durable afer a few coats of poly. It is difficult, however, to get it to blend easily into the wood.
I've done this a good bit with leather on handles that weren't deep enough even on stiff handled flatbows. The trouble is that at the heavier draw weights I shoot, that little lack of mass turns into a big pain in the rear on trying to hold the bow steady.
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Graphics look good too :)
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I would never have thought to use leather as a middle laminate--and I've tried some pretty far-out stuff. How much longer than the block will you make the leather?
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Kegan, I see your dilemma with heavier draw weights. Do you think wrapping some sort of metal wire around the handle would be enough weight addition...it seems like it would flex throughout the draw, but I've never tried it.
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The trouble with wire is that any handshock would bite into the hand. The only wire I have is very hard to bend as well, at least without little kinks that would make it even more painful.
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Kegan - how about wrapping the handle area with sheet lead, and then covering it with leather or cord wrapping? Soft enough to bend readily. More added weight than anything else short of depleted uranium (and a lot more primitive than d-U).
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Gold coins! Then if you miss with the bow, you can stop at the butcher shop on the way home.
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Please do not!
If the longbow is already finished and bend in the handle , gluing no handle.
Either the bow breaks in the fadeout or the handle bursts away.
The leather is only exacerbated.
Bernhard
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Please do not!
If the longbow is already finished and bend in the handle , gluing no handle.
Either the bow breaks in the fadeout or the handle bursts away.
The leather is only exacerbated.
Bernhard
That's the point. The leather allows the bow to bend like it's supposed to, but have a little weight with a wooden egg-grip on top of it :).
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I tried that on a self bow. Worked, but the leather eventually gave up where it was laminated to the handle as the wood handle did not flex causing the leather to pull away from it. Course one failure dose not mean it willl not work. Hope y'all figure it out.
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It depends only on the bend in the handle.
Bernhard
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Kegan, while we're discussing out-of-box handle designs. What about this idea. Take the egg shaped wooden insert and make a few cross-section cuts across it. Then glue the piece back together with leather disc between--kind of like disc in a spinal column. This would allow the wooden insert to flex a bit. Just a thought.
Dave
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Dave, that's a pretty good idea! I'm curious to see how thin the wooden lams would have to be to flew properly, but that sure would look neat too!
Right now I'm thinking I went a bit far with the egg shape. If the purpose of the leather is just to cushion the bend, then the handle would only need to be radiused enough to fit along the belly of the bow at full draw, with any extra radiusing being a bit of a waste. I'm working on a couple D bows now that I might put a handle on, dpepending on how they turn out. If I do, I'll give this a try on one.