Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: dmassphoto on May 04, 2010, 12:30:10 am
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Here's the Osage bow I made at the TN Classic, from one of Gary Davis's pieces. First bow I've made, and technically it wasn't really "made" by me since I didn't start with a log, I thought I did pretty good on my first outing. It pulls 53# at 26" and shoots beautifully. I didn't finish it at the Classic because I wanted to shoot some before it rained, so I took it home and finished the sanding, starting at 60 grit and going down to 220 grit. All that's left now I think is to burnish it with a towell and find some form of finishing for it. Before I go any further, feel free to leave any comments or suggestions. Thanks!
(http://www.legionofspartans.com/forums/user_pictures/1222038073/gallery_8_25_177912.jpg)
(http://www.legionofspartans.com/forums/user_pictures/1222038073/gallery_8_25_25196.jpg)
(http://www.legionofspartans.com/forums/user_pictures/1222038073/gallery_8_25_27989.jpg)
(http://www.legionofspartans.com/forums/user_pictures/1222038073/gallery_8_25_47285.jpg)
(http://www.legionofspartans.com/forums/user_pictures/1222038073/gallery_8_25_81174.jpg)
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nice very good bow.
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Nice bow
What glue did you use for the splice?
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super looking bow
but i think you forgot to post a full draw pic ;)
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I'll post a full-draw pic as soon as I can get my wife to get off her bum and take a pic of me :D
Magnum, the bow already came spliced, and I have no idea what glue Gary used. Sorry I couldn't be more help.
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Excellent job! You can't get much better than Gary as teacher. Well done!
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Yep...with Gary Davis teaching You....Weill You are almost Guaranteed a Shooter....unless the Wood Fails........ ;D
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nice bow,, nice thick rings,,
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Great looking bow. Congrats.
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mmmmmm i like the handle, but the whole thing is super!
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Thanks all for the comments! That summer wood was really tough to scrape and sand, but I got it somehow. Just a couple quick questions.
1. Is there any way to get rid of those big black splice marks on the back of the bow?
2. What would be a good finish I could use on it?
Thanks!
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thats a great looking stick...i would think that you are hooked into bow making now..the splice job is lovely..john
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Really nice bow!
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When your osage turns dark over time the splice marks will be barely visible. I always make shorter splices and hide them under the handle leather.
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Congrats on a fine first bow!
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thats a great looking stick...i would think that you are hooked into bow making now..the splice job is lovely..john
lol yeah I'm already looking to make my kid a bow. Figured it'd be easier to learn. All I gotta do now is find the tools!
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I wish my splices looked that good lol
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Very nice and congratulations on your first. I wouldn't worry about those dark spots, either. Enjoy the bow. The more of them I've made the less I've become concerned with inconsequential stuff like those dark spots.
Great job.
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Awesome bow. Love the profile.
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That's absolutely the best Z-splice I've seen. I would not cover it up with anything. Bookmarked for May Self BOM fun too. Looking forward to the full draw.
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I am with Don....why would you worry about covering up such a nice splicing as that....adds a little character to an otherwise all yaller bow..... ;)
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I am with Don....why would you worry about covering up such a nice splicing as that....adds a little character to an otherwise all yaller bow..... ;)
I dunno. I guess I don't know any better and thought it took away from the rest of the bow, or thought it was supposed to be taken off. :-\ Plus it wasn't really my splice, so I can't take any sort of credit for it.
Does anyone what kind of finish I should put on it? I'd like it to be clear, but don't know enough about finishes to decide for myself.
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If you don't want to change the color and you're just wanting weather protection, use mineral oil something similar. I usually just oil my bows...no stain or anything. If I've expecting harsh weather, then I'll wax it with carnauba.
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You ask anyone that see my Osage Bow at the Classic....It shined like a Poly Finish...and all I did was use 0000 Steel Wool....and Olive Oil.....rub the Olive Oil in with the Wool......until the Bow is like Glass....then Hand Rub a few more....then whenever it looks dull....apply more.....simple....but purty..... ;D
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I use Tru Oil Gunstock Finish on all my Osage bows. It is hand-rubbed in and takes a couple of hours to dry. I put between 4 to 10 THIN coats per bow usually letting the bow dry 12 to 24 hrs between coats. for the last 2 or 3 coats I rub the bow down with 0000 steel wool before applying the finish. It makes the osage look really good. :)
Oh yeah and the Osage bow El D was carrying around at the Classic looked like it had a beautiful finish too. Might have to try that. :)
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I'd like to put a nice glossy sheen on it, not so much for weather protection as to look purty. :) Thanks EL, That was one of the things I forgot, was the 0000 Steel Wool. Any particular type of olive oil you use? The same stuff you buy at the grocery store, or something different? That stuff can get more expensive than Poly!
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I just use the Wifes cooking Olive Oil......shoot Canola would probably work too.... ;)
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I've used fruit/vegi oils before. They work fine, but for what it's worth I get the same results from mineral oil...which is cheaper.
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That's awesome! Great looking bow. Jawge
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I actually like the splice lines in the handle... makes it interesting!
Vey nice bow, man. You must be so proud!
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pulling that much and how does the splice stay intact would be hard for me to believe. good looking bow. i wish i could get my stuff to turn out that nice
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Ok so I just got back from Walmart where I went to look for some Mineral Oil. I looked all over that place, in the cooking section, in the wood-finishing section, in the Pharmacy. I asked one lady, who went to another lady, who went to another lady and we finally found it......used as a laxative. :D
It supposedly "promotes easier bowel movements by lubricating the contents of the intestinal tract." oh, and it's a skin moisturizer too.
Hopefully it'll work for my bow and push through some heavy arrows, lol.
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Hopefully it'll work for my bow and push through some heavy arrows, lol.
:D :D :D :D ;D
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You may have to Grunt really loud to make it work though..... ;D
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(http://www.legionofspartans.com/forums/user_pictures/1222038073/gallery_8_25_49204.jpg)
Finally, here's my full-draw pic. When we had it on the scale at the Classic, the thing looked great. :-\ Another wierd thing, after about 15min of it being strung to take these photos, it took quite a bit of set, especially on the bottom. Could sanding it down have caused that?
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Now mind You...I am looking at this Picture on my Cell Phone....but it looks to Me that you do not have the Arrow nocked at the proper height ....which is putting more stress on the one Limb...and this will give you an untrue full draw view....as for the unstrung string follow....is there a chance the wood is still wet?
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Another pic
(http://www.legionofspartans.com/forums/user_pictures/1222038073/gallery_8_25_139347.jpg)
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....as for the unstrung string follow....is there a chance the wood is still wet?
I hope not! If it's still wet then I wouldn't be very happy at all. It's already got 2 coats of oil on it and I have no tools to work the bow right now. :(
When I was at the Classic, the bottom limb was looking ever-so-slightly stiffer than the top limb. The only thing I've done to it since then was to sand it and try to finish it. It definately didn't get wet over the weekend, although it's been pretty humid. I sanded it with 60grit, 100grit, 150grit and 220 grit. Burnished it with a towell as best I could, then worked 2 coats of mineral oil on it last night and this morning.
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Two more. One at brace height and the other unstrung, to illustrate the set.
(http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p168/gobdav/th_IMG_1386.jpg) (http://s128.photobucket.com/albums/p168/gobdav/?action=view¤t=IMG_1386.jpg)
(http://i128.photobucket.com/albums/p168/gobdav/th_IMG_1387.jpg) (http://s128.photobucket.com/albums/p168/gobdav/?action=view¤t=IMG_1387.jpg)
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I dont think the wood would be wet,, he dont sale wet wood,,, in the full draw pic looks like a hinge on lower limb,,,,,how much did you sand the belly,,starting out with 60 grit is way to course,,after working the bow with a scraper you could start with 400 and finish out with 600,,grit sandpaper,,did you sand heavy with 60 and 100 grit,,,I saw the bow while you were there it looked great,, or could be one of those things,,this is not an exact science,, the bottom limb should be alittle stiffer that top,,,string the bow mark the center of bow measure toward the center of limb 15in on both limbs and put a small pencil mark,,, measure up to the string on both limbs and tell us the measurements,,,this is done on the belly side,,I think he tillers his bows 1/8 positive on upper
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Yeah I would say I sanded not exactly heavy, but not really light either. :-\ EDIT: Ok, I'd say I sanded a little on the heavy side of thigs.
Ok, I think I understood what you said Yazoo, but here's what I did.
1. I strung the bow
2. I measured it in a straight line from nock to nock (63" exact)
3. My arrow rest is cut exactly 1.5" above center.
4. I measured out from the center of the bow 15" along the curve and not in a straight line
5. From that point, the Upper limb is 17" exact to the string
6. From the bottom point, the Lower limb is 17" exact to the string
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That doesn't appear to have too much set, looks pretty normal to me. Steve
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That doesn't appear to have too much set, looks pretty normal to me. Steve
All I know is it was pointing away from me yesterday when I had it unstrung, and today the tips are pointing towards me. Should I measure it unstrung?
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you need to measure not to limb tip but up from the belly to the string,,the 15in measurement insures that you measure at same place on each limb to compare,, it will be around 6 or 7 in as you would measure brace height just around midlimb this will allow you to compare each limb,,
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So, i'm measuring from the middle of the bow out to 15", then from that point to the string along the belly. I'm getting about 17.5" for both sides when braced. Also, the limb on the bottom seems to be slightly twisted. Is this a problem?
Where should I go from here? Is it safe to shoot?
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You are still missing what Mike is.asking....find center....measure up 15 inches...and down 15 inches....mark both spots....now take a tape measure...and measure at a 90 degree angle from the string to the belly of the bow in these two spots.....should only be like 6-7 inches....then let us know what the measurements are....this will give an idea what each limb is doing.....
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You are still missing what Mike is.asking....find center....measure up 15 inches...and down 15 inches....mark both spots....now take a tape measure...and measure at a 90 degree angle from the string to the belly of the bow in these two spots.....should only be like 6-7 inches....then let us know what the measurements are....this will give an idea what each limb is doing.....
Duh, I thought he meant measure to the nocking point. Thanks for the clarification. Sorry.
Bottom Limb: 6 1/16"
Top Limb: 5 7/8"
Center to string: 6 1/4"
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I think you may have sanded to much off bottom limb,,,that is where you are developed a hindge,,this will need to be corrected,,get rid of this hindge and then match the upper limb to this,,I am not sure how gary would do this,,but give him a call and explain,,his number is in the primitive archer mag,
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I think you may have sanded to much off bottom limb,,,that is where you are developed a hindge,,this will need to be corrected,,get rid of this hindge and then match the upper limb to this,,I am not sure how gary would do this,,but give him a call and explain,,his number is in the primitive archer mag,
Thanks for the info. I will do so tomorrow.
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Looks like a fine bow. Congratulations.
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Well, I wasn't able to get in touch with Gary, although I did leave a message. Does anyone have any suggestions on how I might be able to fix it? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
-d
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Without tools it would be tough.I would probably cut off an inch of the bottom limb to start with if I was concerned with loosing to much weight.If weight wasn't an issue I would scrape the bottome limb on either side of the weak spot. Where do you live ? By the way a fine looking first bow. :)
Pappy
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I myself don't think the bow looks that bad and even set isn't that bad. Possibly a lot of bend about 3 " out of the handle on the lower limb.
If it was mine, I would put a decent spar coat on it and rock on. Have you tried to tune the bow with an arrow to see the correct nocking point? First drawn picture looks good but arrow a tad high.
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OK....heres what I did...I took Your first Full Draw Picture...and straightened it up in Photoshop...the Bow is way too crooked to get a good perspective.....then I added a line Perpendicular to the Bow at the Arrow Shelf just to show you where the Arrow should be nocked ...well at least close to nocked.... and the Blue Line is running Plumb from the Top Tip...to show you how much more the Bottom Limb is Bending already....Nock the Arrow lower..close to where it is marked...then take another Full Draw Picture so We can see where it is truly bending too much...I believe that once this is done...there is going to be a difference in the way it looks at Draw...and I think it may be worse...because right now the way it is being drawn...the Top Limb is taking more Stress than the Bottom...and when you nock lower...where it should be...the Bottom Limb will be taking more of what it needs to be...and will bend more....JMO
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Thats a swell looking bow, you did a fine job
VB
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OK....heres what I did...I took Your first Full Draw Picture...and straightened it up in Photoshop...the Bow is way too crooked to get a good perspective.....then I added a line Perpendicular to the Bow at the Arrow Shelf just to show you where the Arrow should be nocked ...well at least close to nocked.... and the Blue Line is running Plumb from the Top Tip...to show you how much more the Bottom Limb is Bending already....Nock the Arrow lower..close to where it is marked...then take another Full Draw Picture so We can see where it is truly bending too much...I believe that once this is done...there is going to be a difference in the way it looks at Draw...and I think it may be worse...because right now the way it is being drawn...the Top Limb is taking more Stress than the Bottom...and when you nock lower...where it should be...the Bottom Limb will be taking more of what it needs to be...and will bend more....JMO
Looks like photoshop line is not lined up with the bottom nock like the top.
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Looks like photoshop line is not lined up with the bottom nock like the top.
Thats the whole Point....The Line is Straight and Plumb to the Back of the Bow Grip...the Bottom Limb is not pulling like the Top Limb is...it's bending too much..
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It doesn't look bad enough to me to lose any sleep over. I don't see the hinge, and the humidity had to be close to 90% that weekend. Shoot it and make another one.
Have you shot it yet? If not, why not?
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I shot it a little just after I got it home, but I didn't do anything to it after sanding and noticing the hinge, affraid I might break it. I took it out today and it seems to shoot great, but I've got overspinned shafts by about 10# so I won't really know until I get some proper arrows. I talked to Gary earlier today and he said not to worry much about it, that I can't really do much for it, and that a hinge will take a selfbow that's supposed to last 10yrs, and reduce it, but otherwise it should shoot ok, which it does. Who knows, it may be all that laxative I put on it that makes it shoot smooth.
EL D. I'll get another pic this evening with a lower nocking point. I notice that when I hold the bow level, the string isn't parallel with the handle, and it's pretty noticably lower going towards the lower limb, if that makes any sense.
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Real nice splice and Bow :)
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It doesn't look bad enough to me to lose any sleep over. I don't see the hinge, and the humidity had to be close to 90% that weekend. Shoot it and make another one.
Have you shot it yet? If not, why not?
I agree....
I need to show you guys what a hinge looks like dont I . I wouldn't worry about that bow at all. Shoot it and have fun. As for the arrows, taking a piece of sandpaper to the middle of the shaft will fix the spine, unless you just want to get more arrows.
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I really hope I don't sound overly-paranoid to you guys with all this, but it IS my first-made bow and I'm trying to learn all I can.
I was out exercising the bow today and kept hearing what sounded like small snaps and cracks coming from the lower limb. It did it once when I was at the Classic, but it turned out to be a knot just contracting. Well, today I took a look at the lower limb and saw a bunch of vertical "cracks" running the length of the limb. Also, I saw a horizontal split in the one knot that made the sound at the Classic. Here are a few pics of the cracks, as well as a brace height pic illustrating what I posted a few days ago concerning the non-parallel nature of the string. Please let me know if there's a problem with this, or if it's just a part of the bow.
(http://www.legionofspartans.com/forums/user_pictures/1222038073/gallery_8_25_52203.jpg)
(http://www.legionofspartans.com/forums/user_pictures/1222038073/gallery_8_25_139450.jpg)
(http://www.legionofspartans.com/forums/user_pictures/1222038073/gallery_8_25_40470.jpg)
(http://www.legionofspartans.com/forums/user_pictures/1222038073/gallery_8_25_67104.jpg)
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Small snaps ain't good IMO. I would fill those knots with superglue, and cut an inch off the bottom limb. Those cracks look like tool marks. I could be wrong.
I know the feeling you are feeling. You want your first bow to come out a complete shooter. But as a guy from "practical primative" told me while I was building my first, "this is not a hobby of attachment". He was right. So right, I kinda 50% expect my bows will break within 200 shots. And 25% expect not to survive my tiller tree. And when one shines past 500 arrows like one I have now, I am impressed.
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Fill the cracks and knot with C.A Glue (super glue) ....and let it dry good....and don't worry about the Linear Cracks ....Osage is notorious for this....:and although they look bad....they hurt nothingness...as long as they do not run off the sides of a Limb.....did.you get this Tillered properly yet?
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Like ElD said. Fill them with super glue. Tiller the bow and shoot it till it breaks. You're trying to invent problems. It's only your first bow, I broke about seven before I got my first shooter and can post pictures of my "corner of shame" or about to be remodeled.
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Fill the cracks and knot with C.A Glue (super glue) ....and let it dry good....and don't worry about the Linear Cracks ....Osage is notorious for this....:and although they look bad....they hurt nothingness...as long as they do not run off the sides of a Limb.....did.you get this Tillered properly yet?
Will do. Super glue the cracks in the knot, don't worry about the linear cracks. As for the tiller, that's the thing, I'm really not sure where to take wood off, since it's pretty even all the way down the limb. I'd say, if I had to take any wood off, it would be at the beginning of the limb just below the handle, as it looks a little thicker there. But, if the bottom limb is bending more, it would make sense to take wood off the top limb, correct? If you look at the last pic I posted, it shows it at brace height and seems a bit off. The bow shoots great though, which makes me wonder if I should mess with it at all?
Mullet, yeah you could say I'm trying to invent problems, but I'm also trying to learn a lot by my mistakes. Hopefully I haven't bothered you'all with too many questions. :)
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I would just Glue all of the Cracks....and Shoot it till it Blows...and make another...a Hinge will only lessen the Life aof the Bow...Yours don't look bad at all...so...just enjoy it...and make another to replace this down the Road...like eddie said...I too have made many to get one that has lasted now for Years...many others lasted a week...a month...and then years....it's just the way things go...I have 4 I kept...the rest went in the Fireplace...... >:D
Here are some pictures of cracks...and they dont bother a thing...this Bow is now 9...
[attachment deleted by admin]
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Fill the cracks and knot with C.A Glue (super glue) ....and let it dry good....and don't worry about the Linear Cracks ....Osage is notorious for this....:and although they look bad....they hurt nothingness...as long as they do not run off the sides of a Limb.....did.you get this Tillered properly yet?
Will do. Super glue the cracks in the knot, don't worry about the linear cracks. As for the tiller, that's the thing, I'm really not sure where to take wood off, since it's pretty even all the way down the limb. I'd say, if I had to take any wood off, it would be at the beginning of the limb just below the handle, as it looks a little thicker there. But, if the bottom limb is bending more, it would make sense to take wood off the top limb, correct? If you look at the last pic I posted, it shows it at brace height and seems a bit off. The bow shoots great though, which makes me wonder if I should mess with it at all?
Mullet, yeah you could say I'm trying to invent problems, but I'm also trying to learn a lot by my mistakes. Hopefully I haven't bothered you'all with too many questions. :)
I myself do not see the harm is just taking an inch off the bottom limb. I think Pappy suggested this. In fact, lately I like my top limb to be 1" longer.
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Maybe fill the cracks with glue and put a rawhide patch? My 2 cents that all! Nice pictures by the way great angles and depth.
AA
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Some observations. First, the bow is tipping or it seems to me. The upper limb is tipping towards you. When I first shoot a bow I don't care where the arrows are going. I try to sense the handle pressure as I draw. It should be even. Seems like you'd feel more pressure on the top of the handle. That means the top limb is stronger than the bottom. If you agree, I'd scrape the whole length of the limb until she evens out. Second, I don't think the knots are fatal. Shoot'em with super glue. Third, I usually leave knotted areas a little wider. Selfbowyers are too concerned about leaving bows trim and perfect in design. You gotta compensate for knots. Something to remember for the next one. Comstock calls it the "fiberglass mentality". He is right on with that one. Fourth, I don't know if the bottom limb is hinging. I don't think so. Fifth, mineral oil is a good laxative. I use 3 coats of Tru Oil. and 3 coats of spar urethane. The Tru Oil seals pores nicely. Sixth, little noises are never good. Make sure they've stopped. Seventh, (come on Jawge get nit over with!) Congratulations. Took me a lot longer to get a bow.
LOL. I just noticed some drying cracks in the back of the bow in one of those shots or they seem to be. They are running with the grain. I also see some funky area on the back. I try to get the backs glassy smooth.Something to remember for the next one. Jawge
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man if the bow shoots good, id just leave it alone and shoot heck out of it till it dies. it looks great, top limb might be a bit stiff( looks like it in your full draw). If i did any thing id take a few scrapes off the top limb, not worry about the cracks, and get started on my next bow. Im sure that bow will have a reasonably long life it looks pretty excellent other than the minor tillering issue. MO Ty
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(http://www.legionofspartans.com/forums/user_pictures/1222038073/gallery_8_25_125564.jpg)
(http://www.legionofspartans.com/forums/user_pictures/1222038073/gallery_8_25_86917.jpg)
(http://www.legionofspartans.com/forums/user_pictures/1222038073/gallery_8_25_287098.jpg)
(http://www.legionofspartans.com/forums/user_pictures/1222038073/gallery_8_25_110764.jpg)
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what.....happened ??? :( >:( :'(
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Unfortunately it sounds like the cracking noise caught up with the bow. My first selfbow (I purchased off someone) starting ticking. I paniced at first, then tried to act like it wasn't there. Well, it caught up with me later.
Real sorry to see this.
Must have been the weekend of exploding bows. I was at the balt trad classic and the guy who taught to make bows and does it for a living broke a osage right in front of my eyes. It can happen to anyone. Myself, that knot would have scared me.
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Yeah, it exploded right where the knot originally fractured. You can see it in the last pic. I had put some super glue in it the night before, then was working it a little today. Got it up to full draw, heard the tick again, then let 'er down. I pulled back again about 25"....no tick....pulled the last inch then BOOM.
The funny thing is, this tick noise had been there from the start of making the bow, and we just thought it was the knot compressing at first. I'm really saddened by this one, for one it was my first selfbow, and I put a lot of work and love into it, and secondly I don't know where I'm gonna get the wood for another. Ugh. :-\
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Although good at wood-working, and a newbie at bow making, I have yet to finish my first. Trust me the let-down is bad. The next day you look at it and say...What did or didn't I do!!! The answer is....Listen to these guys....READ, LEARN, AND KEEP TRYIN!
I'm on my 3rd, I know the feeling.(i.e. the 1st 2 blew up)
DON'T let the addiction die.
EL D's line is the best.....Do or do not, there is no try........
Keep strokin, shavin, sandin, and shapin. It will happen!
God Bless
Ron
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Yeah, it exploded right where the knot originally fractured. You can see it in the last pic. I had put some super glue in it the night before, then was working it a little today. Got it up to full draw, heard the tick again, then let 'er down. I pulled back again about 25"....no tick....pulled the last inch then BOOM.
The funny thing is, this tick noise had been there from the start of making the bow, and we just thought it was the knot compressing at first. I'm really saddened by this one, for one it was my first selfbow, and I put a lot of work and love into it, and secondly I don't know where I'm gonna get the wood for another. Ugh. :-\
I have only been at it for little over 2 years, and on my 8th bow. My first one blew also. I screwed with it too much but learned a ton. I wanted to make the tiller perfect. Ended up with a hinge. Made the bow too light, so wanted to learn how to reflexed the tips. Made another hinge, wanted to learn how to sinew. On and on it went. I finally was able to look at the bow as my learning tool. My second a bow, a ELB out of expensive yew, almost finished and for some reason, turned backwards and flexed, blew up. Learned more about tillering, learned more about round belly narrow bows. Third bow, a kids bow, finished and it blew. learned some more. Point I am getting at is that bow was just the cost of learning this. If you keep at it, I bet you will look back the same way.
Lots of places to get another blank. I highly suggest yazoo (mike Mcgire) on here. He has treated me right with top quality stuff. Tell him exactly what you want. He will accomidate. Lots of other places. I go on craigslist and search for osage and found a tree that someone wanted to come down. Lots of work, but well worth it. Hickory is everywhere and dog cheap for no knot straight stuff. That knot would have scared me, myself for a new builder. At least a newbie like me.
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At least a newbie like me.
One thing I've been chewing on for the past couple days is whether I should tell Gary, the man who sold the blank to me and was kind enough to teach me at the Classic how to build it. He said it was guaranteed for a year, and would repace if broken. If it ends up being a fault of my own, I wouldn't even consider calling him, but the snaps I was hearing were happening from the first time I drew the bow. I guess the point I'm trying to make is, should I call him up and let him know, or chalk it up to a loss? I spent quite a bit of money for it, and want to make sure it was the wood and not me that failed. I don't want to ask him to send another blank down if it was my fault.
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I would call Gary and talk to Him bout this...if there is one thing you will learn about these Folks...they are Men of Their words....If Gary gave you a warranty...let Him make the call on the Stave....jmo
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Call Gary ,he will take care of it. He will want you to send it back so he can see the problem,but I can tell you he will stand behind it. To bad but it happens. Don't take it to bad,it was a problem with the wood,not you.ticks are never good in my experience,you try and make yourself believe it is something else,but usually never is. :) :) Call Gary !!!
Pappy
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sorry to see that. I didn't think any of the other spots were of real concern but when you mentioned the clicking noise I thought, "Oh boy." That ain't never good, but there wasn't much you could do about that. Oh well, I know it's a heart breaker but as Pappy says, "don't ever fall in love with a piece of wood."
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Same thing happened to me about 5 years ago with one of Gary's. I showed him the next year and he cut it on the band saw, and seen it was nothing but an unseen bad spot in the wood and handed me a new one no charge, which he assisted me with. He's a super guy and is more then eager to make things right.
Like Pappy says, call him, he's a great guy.
John
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I only just read this post, was about to conratulate you on one of the best first bows I've seen. Then I read on and...... I think its part of the proceess!, some bows blow! on the road to the perfect bow. At least you had it for a while
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UPDATE: I just finished talking to Gary and he offered to send another with no problems. I made sure to let him know that if it was indeed something I did to cause the failure, I would readily pay for the new stave, and he told me we would settle it at the next Classic. I would reccommend Gary to anyone.
I just want to say thanks to all those here who offered advice and congratulations on my first bow. Hopefully you'all can answer more of my questions when I start building again! :)
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glad it worked out