Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Frode on April 25, 2010, 09:43:51 pm
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Hi all,
I have a friend with a horse bow problem, and I thought I'd tap the collective wisdom here to see if it can be remedied. This bow has a 54" string and pulls, I'd guess, 30# or so. The string appears to be in good shape, the bow is well cared for, and while the finish is rubbed off the keyhole like nocks in the siyahs (sp?), they don't seem to be broken or excessively worn. Here's the problem, the string has taken to popping out on one end upon release. The owner is perplexed, the place she bought the bow at said there's nothing to be done for it, but they would give her a discount on a new bow. I admit, horse bows are beyond my experience just yet, but this one just doesn't look broken to me.
As always, your observations are greatly appreciated!
Frode
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I would just deepen the nocks a hair and raise the brace height. A new string with an extra strand or two to minimize stretch may also help.
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I agree with Pat, A round no. 8 nickelson file filed down on angle, after you mark the angle with the bow strung,I would draw a line to see where it goes. Denny
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Get a video camera and see if you can capture the Kodak moment. I'm trying to visualize how this happens! Even if she's 'way overdrawing until the siyahs are horizontal, the string should not slip out of the nocks.
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Hey Frode,
Been cogatating on yer post.....dont know squat about these horse bows but from a mechanical point of view only....the string groves are basically a hole with an inlet slot, so could the proiblem arise from the slot width VS: hole diameter being too close to the same size? In other words, if the hole was a little bit larger (1/16" or so) that would form more of a "shoulder" that the string would have to "pop" over to escape into the slot....especially at the lower draw weight.
If the string is not under a lot of tension at brace, and she is shooting "snap-knocks" then the string could come out of the slots on follow through, unless there is a shoulder to prevent that, and I think you will form that shoulder with either a bigger hole or a smaller slot width.
Hope I said this some where close to something that makes sense.
Rich
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are the limbs twisted? if so, that could cause the string to pop off. if the limbs are straight, i'd cut the nocks deeper. another thought, was the string made for that bow? the strings on those horsebows must have a large enough loop to fit the syahs.
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are the limbs twisted? if so, that could cause the string to pop off. if the limbs are straight, i'd cut the nocks deeper. another thought, was the string made for that bow? the strings on those horsebows must have a large enough loop to fit the syahs.
Does the string contact the bridge at brace height? If so, as Mechslasher said, if there are any alignment or twisting issues, the string may miss the bridge after release, causing the bow to go completely unstable which could unstring the bow like you mentioned. Also not good for either the bow or the archer...
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I had the same problem when I put a new string on. Shortly after that the string cut the Siyah off.
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can we see the string?
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If looks don't matter and you don't want to cut into the siyah deeper you can always take an 8" piece of artifical sinew, wrapped it around the nock a couple times and tie it in a good square knot, then take it off when you are finished shooting. I do this all the time when I testing a bow and haven't yet finished the tips.
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Seriously. :)
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Hello,
I have a horsebow and before I would start filing on the nocks I would post pictures of your string loops and what the bow looks like strung. Horsebows have a higher brace height than recurves or long bows. It sounds like the siyahs are coming to far forward at release. If the limbs are twisted enough to cause the string to come off it should be very apparent.
Good luck
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Hi all,
Thanks for all the responses! I know this one isn't strictly primitive, but one of these days I'd hope to give making one a try, so anything I learn now only helps later. Here are a few pics showing the nocks and string. I couldn't arrange a good shot showing the limbs at full draw, but they don't appear to be twisting. String appears proper for the bow.
The idea of deepening the nocks in the direction of the string seemed like the way to go, but I thought, one more look can't hurt...
Thanks,
Frode
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It looks to me like the hole portion of the keyhole could be slightly larger diameter. Probably wouldn't hurt to put a few more twists into the string depending on what the brace height is resting at right now. Remember of course that the brace height is higher on horsebows than typical bows where the brace height would be fistmele which is typically supposed to be 6" or so.
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Frode...now this is just My Oservation...and I own two Hungarian Bows like this...One Toth...and one Kassai...and the String Hole needs to have a more Pronounced lip on it...there isn't really enough to hold the String in there ...I would deepen it downward slightly...not bigger around...but down to make a more pronounce lip...and also twist that String a Bit more...you see by the Braced Picture how the Syahs are tipping downward slightly...and the String is tight on the Back of the Syahs?? Well twist it up untill the String still makes contact...but ever so slightly...if even just slightly off the Syah...these two things should cure the Problem...maybe just the Brace Height would do it alone....you might have Her try that before you start to file...String looks fine to me also...If it were Me...I would start with the Brace Height...Shoot it...and see...if no...file the Nocks a bit....JMO
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The loops on the string are not big enough and if they are not built up,padded, it will cut through the wood. It lok's just like the one that cut the nocks off on my Grozer. I bet it sounds louder when it shoots, too.
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I would guess the brace height could be raised a few twists myself, also as Mullet said the loop looks a bit skinny. Steve
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When you twist that string it will tighten the loops up even more.
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Thank you, O Wise Ones!
I just shot about 20 through it with just the string twisted up 8-10 turns, no problems! I noticed that the stringer still wanted to pop out easily, so I took the nock file to it, just barely. Just enough to put a bit of lip back on the hole. Shot a few more through, strung and unstrung a few times, and it all seems to go a lot better. El D, the pics helped, thanks, I had nothing prior to compare it to. Hrothgar, thanks for the tying off tip, I have three on the bench that are right at that stage, and I'm going to try that.
Thanks again everyone!
Frode
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mullet and Badger,
Your posts popped up just as I hit send. When you say the loops look skinny, do you mean the served area that rests on the shoulder (bridge?) area on the siyah? Just curious.
I see your points about the twist. I only twisted enough to get it less tight against the bridge. It could easily take another 8 turns before the string would raise off the bridge, does this indicate a stretched string?
Thanks,
Frode
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I think the siyah should have more of a knife edge at the base of the loop. Ideally the string should just touch the bridge and the loop should straddle the siyah with minimal contact. It looks like it could use some fine-tuning.
The loop could be a bit larger and the siyah tapered a touch. I think the original problem was string stretch though.
You are right that you can twist an endless string to shorten it before the twist goes up into the loops and starts making them smaller as was mentioned. That is only likely with a Flemish twist.
This is undoubtedly the reason that most Composite bows with siyahs had a knotted loop string.
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You could pad the inside of your nock with a piece of thin leather like James Parker does or build up your serving. A then string serving on my loops is what cut the top off the Siyahs. Like said, just a little fine tuning is needed, the string barely touching the bridge, and I think, JMO the loops need to be a little bigger.
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I had a Toth Horsebow, but never had problems like this. I'd guess the string is too short by more than just a twist or ten. In the "at rest" strung position the siyahs are too "flat" and the string is barely in the notches. When the string snaps back from being drawn it won't want to stay in the nock. If the string is shorter, the angle if the siyah will be greater and the string will want to stay in place.