Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: hillbilly61 on April 10, 2010, 12:50:06 am
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Trying to get this BBO finished up, and the only thing left is to put a finish on it. Polyurethane? I would like to get it done to try and take it to the Children's Bennifit if I'm not pulling call then.
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I use about 8 coats of true oil... gives you a nice shine on the bow
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Quick drying Minwax Poly spray.
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I want to keep it's original color. So the poly would be the best choice?
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on boo i use carnuba wax,on wood i use tongue oil
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3 coats of spar urethane is what I usually use. If it's osage I give it 3 coats of TruOil and then 3 coats of the spar. The Tru Oil fills up the pores nicely. Jawge
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Tru-oil or Helmsman spray spar urethane. Both are clear and won't change the color of your wood. On primitive bows I use bear grease.
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Not sure if you can get it over in the States but I'm a big fan of Rustins Plastic Coating, creates a superb finish and is absolutely bomb proof.
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I mostly use the Helmsman Spar Urethane with good results. The Ash bow that I had at the Pre-Spring Arrow Fling had four coats of it. On my Grandson's little Pecan bow I used an automotive based finish, just to try it. I still have some of that if you would like to give it a try.
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I use 5 to 6 coats of Tru-Oil with a buffing of 0000 steel wool between coats. For hunting bows I add a quick spray of satin poly over the Tru-Oil to cut the shine. On primitive bows I use hand rubbed bear grease like Hillbilly.
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I like a couple of coats of penetrating oil finish like Watco first, the tips really soak it up.. When the Watco is throughly dry I'll use a surface finish like spar varnish to build a good hard shell. Hard carnaba wax applied with a buffing wheel to finish it off.
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Ok Tru-Oil and Spar Urethane it is. Thanks for the offer Lombard. But the way things are going I don't know when we can get up with each other.
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I've been using Tru oil, usually 6-7 coats (finger applied). The last bow I did was with Tung oil. I liked it because it didn't build up a sheen as with the Tru oil.
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I was able to get 2 coats of urathane on last night, but ran out of time. The direction say if unable to recoat within 1 1/2 hrs wait 72 befor recoating. Then after the final coat to wait 24 hrs befor using. What is the reasoning behind this ??? This will put it Sunday befor being able to shoot :(
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I use a polyurethane called Arm-R-Seal made by General Finishes, the best i've used. it's very thin so it flows well and gives very very nice finish, you can wipe it on or brush it on. I used to use spar varnish, this nocks the socks off it.
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I was going to ask this same question in the very near future if my first bow works out.
I have Watco Danish oil here that i was hoping to use. I think I will also need to go out and get some steel wool.
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Gopher, what do you mean regarding the poly versus the spar??? I've been using Tru Oil wiped on with finger - pretty labor intensive. I was going to just shoot my current one with Helmsman spray can. Is there a distributer online?? Tru Oil really makes wood grain jump, but I don't think it has the durability of other finishes.
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I was able to get 2 coats of urathane on last night, but ran out of time. The direction say if unable to recoat within 1 1/2 hrs wait 72 befor recoating. Then after the final coat to wait 24 hrs befor using. What is the reasoning behind this ??? This will put it Sunday befor being able to shoot :(
The reason for a long wait between coats in the drying process is so you don't "case harden " the finish. If the finish is CH that means the outer coat drys and prevents the inner coat from drying. You usually end up with a sticky mess that takes forever to dry.
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I use satin urethane, but here are some thought so mine on other bows finishes: http://analogperiphery.blogspot.com/2009/02/selfbow-finishes.html
There are lots of options.
Hope that helps.
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I use mainly Bees Wax/Bear Grease....Or Beeswax/Tallow for my Finishes...but over Skins or Rawhide I prefer to use Polyurethanes...maninly the wipe-on's
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i just think that the spar varnish can look a little "plasticy" and because it is thicker it is harder to get a real good looking finish because it doesn't flwo as well. Arm-R-Seal is very very thin, almost liek water, i just barely get the tip of a foam brush wet and it will cover half a limb. since it is so thin you never have to worry about brush streaks. you do have to make sure you are only using a very smal amoutn at a time or you will get drips, but that isn't a big deal if you're careful. I do about 3-5 coats using steel wool in between coats. The gloss looks like glass when done, too shiney for hunting but great for show. I use the matte on hunting bows.