Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: jturner on March 14, 2010, 08:54:56 pm
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im starting a sassafrass elb and was wondering if I should remove the sapwood or leave it on. Also what dimensions should I start with? I was thinking 1 and 1/4 wide at the handle. I have shot sassafrass elbs that were sweet shooters and think its time to try one.
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You can leave the sapwood on. I never made an elb from it. Jawge
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jturner, George...
I just walked out back on my property and chopped down a Sassafrass that I'd like to attempt a selfbow out of...it's the end of January so assume this was a good time to harvest it (sap is down) and the tree had a nice natural reflex shape to it. It is approximately 6"-7" in diameter. Will this small diameter be ok and will it yield at least one or two staves? The only down side is that the OAL is just at 60" Will I be wasting my time on this since it's pretty short and not the "normal" 62"-66" stave?
Many thanks.
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Lee Slikkers
I know nothing about sassafrass but 6" plus diameter is not a small tree in my mind. I recently made a 55 inch vine maple bendy handle bow that draws 26 inches and 62# out of a 1.5" sapling. You should have a few bows in that peice if it is fairly clean. Best of luck.
Darcy :)
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Hi Jake, Sorry, I don't know anything about sassafrass, I just noticed you're from michigan. Looks like we're not far from each other and was wondering if you were going to the show in kzoo this weekend.
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Thanks Darcy, I guess I was using the term "small" as relative...I've seen a few pictured / drawing from Dean's book that showed much larger Osage being used / split for the task so that was my only reference.
My initial concern was what # I would end at with a "shorter" bow as I see most folks mentioning a minimum of 62" NTN and I doubt I will get anything over 58" from this cut. I think I will still continue with it as it's cut and will still provide a good learning opportunity. Maybe I'll end up with a shorter, decent # "Turkey Bow" for our upcoming Spring Turkey season :-\ I'll attach 2 pics of the "tree" I cut...
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/d8mO8yu1ShZVny_4U-nuOA?feat=directlink (https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/d8mO8yu1ShZVny_4U-nuOA?feat=directlink)
https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/T-WvwLRzc4cTrqkev2AW4Q?feat=directlink (https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/T-WvwLRzc4cTrqkev2AW4Q?feat=directlink)
Tatoo Dave, this is Lee...not Jake but yes, I am planning on attending the Kzoo Expo. I am hopng to be at the doors when they open them Sunday morning. Where are you located in MI? I am so "green" to this Sport that it's a bit embarrassing but I guess everyone starts somewhere on their journey.
Regards,
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I've used sassafrass before it's makes a really light weight bow. I removed the sap wood.And used the back of the stave as the back. Nevewr made a limb bow all were staves. Make sure it's well seasoned or clamp it down to a form it's really light and exceptalbe to warpage. You won't beleive how light weight the wood is. I made 3 bows 2 , 60#'s and 1, 62 #'s. this on was well deflexed and it held the deflex really well. One of the 60's I backed with BOO All turner out to be good bows.
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Crooketarrow, when you say "well seasoned" just how dryed are we talking? Do I need to simply split, debark, seal and toss in my attic for 1-2 years or is there a better method? If I chose to work it while it is still "green" I would be better served by having a form or caul to clamp it too and add heat? Sorry, there are likely VERY basic questions and I have a load of research and reading to do but I didn't want April/May to come around and then deal with sap ladened spring wood and wishing I cut some during the winter.
Many thanks!