Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Arrows => Topic started by: swimbill on March 10, 2010, 01:05:27 pm
-
Lately the field points on my arrows have been coming off in the target. These are the standard glue on steel tips, I put them on with hot melt glue. Has anyone else had this happen and does anyone have suggestions to stop it. I am tired of digging points out of targets. ??? ???
swimbill
-
I have that happen alot too. I was at a 3D shoot 2 weekends ago and someone suggested using Paraffin Wax on the tips so they come out of the target easier. Just rub the first two or three inches of the arrow tip with the wax before shooting. Reapply as needed. Maybe that will help. :)
-
This happens to me especially in the winter. One thing you can do is use a thread tap and tap the inside of the point. This will help it hold on better. Some folks will drill a hole through the head and shaft and add a pin.
Do you degrease the heads before installing. Oil is added at the time they are made to prevent rusting and that oil has to be removed. You can soak them in alcohol or acetone for a few minutes to remove the oil or like I do heat them well to burn off the oil.
-
I have had this problem alot. This time I drilled a bleder hole near the point to let the trapped air bubble out I also sanded the inside to rough em up and degreased them and used epoxy glue. Haven't had a chance to try them out but as soon as I do I'll let you guys know how it works,Ron
-
I never thought to degrease them, glad to hear it is not just me having this problem. Thanks for the advise.
swimbill
-
I usually degrease them with acetone, and often put them on with two-ton epoxy.
-
Super glue holds the world together ;D
-
Yep ;D , you gotta degrease them.
-
Degrease them....drill a pinhole in them...squirt the Hot Melt (not no cheapo Craft Store Hot Melt either) in the Tip....push on and twist...hold downward pressure till the Glue sets...this is important...because they can and will push back up....and to keep from losing them in a Styrofoam Target...now this is ElDestructo's Patented Recipe here...no stealing this Guys.......OK...... :P...I take a Liquid Shoe Polish Applicator Bottle...or an empty Absorbine Junior Bottle (my Favorite) and fill it full of Armoral...then just swab Your Arrow Shafts down good with this...let them dry...do it again....and I will Guarantee you ...that they will pull out of a Styrofoam Block like nothing else you have used....just remember to do it every other outing or so....try it and see.....but remember who taught you this Secret..... ;)
-
ive used wax for that purpose
but Mike,i like your idea even better ;D
promise i wont ever take credit for it when people ask "what the hell ya doing there and why?"
-
Tim....I started doing this with my Carbon Arrows...years ago...and it works just as nice on Wood and Cane...or Boo....as long as they have a Sealer...or finish on them for the Armorall to adhere to...they get really slick...you can pull all of them out by Hand from even the toughest 3-D Targets....
-
My friend showed me the Armorall trick a couple of years ago, I've always been too lazy to use it.
-
I used to use the hot melt glue as well because of ease in changing from field tips to broadheads but found no matter what you do when the arrow penetrates the high density foam targets it heats up the glue and the tips come off when pulling the arrow from the target. An epoxy or superglue would work much better with very few failures and you can still heat the field tips to get them off and change out to broadheads with both.
-
I have had this problem alot. This time I drilled a bleder hole near the point to let the trapped air bubble out I also sanded the inside to rough em up and degreased them and used epoxy glue. Haven't had a chance to try them out but as soon as I do I'll let you guys know how it works,Ron
I promised an update on this method. IT WORKS REALLY WELL . I have fired these arrows probably two dozen times each and none has lost it's point. This will be my method from now on.Ronnie
-
Howdy Group,
Often, when folks are talkin' huntin', the subject of arrow penetration comes up. As you probably know, folks have found that increased arrow weight increases penetration.
But how about trying El D.'s ArmorAl suggestion to increase arrow penetration? It stands to reason that if ArmorAl allows the arrow to come out more easily, it should help the arrow go in more easily; greater penetration. ;)
What do you guys think? Are we on to something here?
All the Best,
Canoe
-
Never thought of it that way.....may just have some merit .... ;D
-
As said, hot melt does come apart from the heat generated in hitting and penetrating a 3D. I use a two pack adhesive (araldite) every time. Apart from thorough degreasing, the other trick I was taught is to make a small groove along the taper cut on the shaft before adding glue. I use the pointed end of the field pile itself to score into the wood of the taper. Then when you press the pile on with the glue in, the excess glue and any trapped air escape via this small vent. I havent had a pile come off since.
-
The metal is the weak link in hafting your points. Just about any adhesive works fine. Concentrate on scoring your point good and degrease well. That thread tap method seems to work the best that Pat mentioned. Another problem is fitting the point to tight. Fit your point loose and leave some room for your glue or you get a dry bond. ART
-
I have had that happen often too! I found that a good fix is two ton epoxy, and to lube the arrow head with wax, or even Pam.
Douglas George. Compound guys often lube their arrows, because their carbon shafts penatrate so deep into the 3-D targets. I have seen them loose the point, and the insert too!
Douglas George
-
It has only been a problem for me when I didn't degrease them. Still lose one now and then, when I bury an arrow in a tree. No problems losing them in targets though.
Mike, just happen to have a nearly empty bottle of absorbine jr, will have to give that a go.
-
Make sure your point taper is good and tight and that the point goes perfectly. Then glue it. I seldom loose a point. I don't degrease. Jawge
-
Canoe-
I used to use a PVC tube w/ foam that would be soaked with spray silicone. Ran the arrow in and out for 3-D & targets. It helped a lot most times.
But for hunting, I'd think the tissue (blood / fat / meat would lube the shaft enough for passage. ???
-
hmm will have to try that, and i would yous a two part epoxy that tip will never come out again lol
-
I have tried most of this stuff myself. Its frustratin to have them points comin off or have to leave one in a 3-D cause its burried up in there. I foretunately don't have that problem any more. Not that one dosen't come off ever, its the nature of the beast. I use Duco on my Feathers, and now I use it fer my tips as well. I clean the inside of my tips with a cotton swab and alcohol before gluein. As fer the Duco cement, I find that as you apply it, it will start to dry fast and forms a outter skin fast, so I apply it as ifin I were gluein PVC pipe. I apply Duco to the arrow tip, then I apply Duco to the inside of the field point. Put em together and twist em a little and then push the point against a piece of wood to make sure they are seated well. Clean off the access glue and set er aside to cure. Works well fer me.
TheWildCat