Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Arrows => Topic started by: riarcher on February 25, 2010, 11:45:15 am
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Made up 3 of these. All that's left is stain & seal.
2 go to the club Saturday (if the humidity allows drying ::))
What do you think?
(http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk108/Floatsum/PICT0040.jpg)
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that looks purdy!! how far apart do you have the uprights?
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Thanks.
26" inside to inside.
Notches have 3 angle/diameter to outside. Shaft sits on about 3/16ths on inside of uprights.
A little final sand, stain, finish and they're done. Maybe tonight.
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Looks good to me. :)
Pappy
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too bad i dont need one anymore, id love to have one of those!!
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Good work. Did you build in an adjustment for different size shafts, or will you just calculate that mathematically?
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Calculators are wonderful things. ;)
Majority will be comparative usage.
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whats the black dohicky up there in the middle? looks like pipe i assume your weight just curious
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Yes it is Ken. Loaded with musket ball & bird shot. :D
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Riarcher, having one of you end post adjustable (up/down-in/out) really helps with materials such as cane and hardwood shoot shaft. ART
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Indicator tip does that for me.
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Like Art said, having an adjustable upright will make a difference if you are spineing cane or hardwood shoot arrows. I have the same indicator as you and the upright adjustment is still needed for cane and hardwood shoots. The second pic shows how I adjust mine. You could probably add a piece to the top of one of the uprights that can be moved up/down and left/right.
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y199/PatBNC/primitive%20archer/spinetester001.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y199/PatBNC/primitive%20archer/spinetester003.jpg)
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Arrrr, gotcha. :)
Still thinking POC that I'd straighten first.
I see the benefits of more adjustability than I have for Boo as a plus.
Has 0.060 on dial to zero, with another 0.050 tip adjustment.
Noticed it's not enough on bent boo (sometimes) or the nodes are out of whack.
This "Primitive" is so different than the sameness of trad. Carbons / POCs / Alum. ;D
Thanks.
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...and just because it's simple don't mean it's easy! ;)
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Copy that!
I'm just learning how hard simple can be. :-\ ;) :D
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Very nice.
I've considered making a new Spline testing jig based on the Hill design too so I can use the dial indicator instead of the steel ruler I've been using.
Hill used a bolt for his weight, I like your idea better.
Thanks for sharing.
Steve
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Yeah, just because it is simple, doesn't mean it's easy! ;) I don't follow the reasoning for adjustability, for different types of shafts..... I be confused...... ??? ???
What is the difference if the shaft is boo, or cedar? If it spines the same, what does different material matter?
Wayne
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Cane and hardwood shoot shafts are irregular at best. To test all four sides of the shaft the adjustment is needed to get the indicator to be zeroed. Cedar shafts are machined true so no irregularities along their sides.
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Wouldn't you just find the stiff sides, and then spine those? Like floor tillering, find the weak, and strong sides, mark them, and spine.
Wayne
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Wayne, as Pat stated, sometimes the irregularities are just to great in cane/shoot shafts to zero out with the dial indicator itself. And there are times you may want to get a quick spine reading on crooked shafts before going through to trouble to work them up. I know thats saved me a lot of time of fooling with shafts that were either to light or to heavy for my needs.
You will find by making one end post adjustable you will solve many problems when using these natural materials. These testers can be used for more than just spining shafts. They're great for checking straightness on dowel shafts. Or for finding problem areas that's not often apparent with the naked eye, like a bent shaft around or under the fletching area. Matter of fact, you can get false strong/weak reading if the shaft isn't perfectly straight to begin with. Add some roller bearings and you have a spin tester for broadhead alignment also. ART
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Dang! I was going to make one when it was simple. :) Now you go and make it confusing! :(
Every time I think I will try something, because it looks relatively easy, you guys, go and throw in some quirks, and doo flangers, that makes it no longer something simple that I can do...... ::)
Wayne
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Stick, it's still simple.
I think I beat the adjusting thing.
Hardware store and plastic bushings.
I only use about 0.5 of the indicator travel. 1/4" long bushing inside a larger, longer outside to slip snuggly over the tip seems to be working.
Had already epoxied a small nut onto the indicator tip for an enlarged flat. These stepped bushings fit over it nicely. Gives me a 3/8-7/16 flattend tip.
On the bamboo I've already gotten a good idea what is usable. My 4' lengths give me 18" to home in on the desired spine location after a quick rough straightening.
Really not that bad. A bit time consuming at first maybe. But not difficult once you're started.
Just zero the dial face, count the revolutions and read for the total.
Got rid of the other 2 today so I'm down to my last one. Should of made more. ::)
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O-Tay......I still have my H. Freight dial indicater, and magnetic stand for it, all I need now is some lumber. ;)
Wayne
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O-Tay......I still have my H. Freight dial indicater, and magnetic stand for it, all I need now is some lumber. ;)
Wayne
Go for it.
You won't be sorry.
This is getting into the fun stuff about archery.
Enjoy
Steve
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You said it steve. I've got many different piles of bamboo now. I love finally having a spine tester. It is nice knowing that you can check a stick for spine before you get too far into it
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Hi all, I'm fairly new to all this stuff, so please forgive if the questions sound stupid. I would love to build myself a spine tester, but am not sure how to get started. Does anyone have a list of materials needed, or better yet, simple plans with instructions? I'm also looking to make a homemade fletching jig, but haven't found anything out there yet with dimensions, or at least measurments to mark the feathers. If anyone can help, I'd be grateful. Thanks!
-Dave
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Welcome Dave -
Didn't notice any stupid questions, so.......
Spine tester;
http://www.jamesmhill.com/Spine_Tester.html
Pretty basic really, most my materials came from Home Depot, the indicator from Ebay (under $10 with shipping).
Whole thing may have ran me $25
As for jigs, the cheaper plastic jigs actually work well for about $30.
I've made a few for special need and they ended up costing about $300 scrimping available materials.
You can also fletch by hand. Not too difficult once you get a system down.
This guy looks like his is homemade;
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pffhKIuuQX8
There's some fine How Tos and Build Alongs on this site further down the main page.
Enjoy.
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Riarcher,
Thanks for the links! The video of the Fletching Jig gave me the idea to make my own, and I was wondering if one decided to use turkey feathers like him, if they would need something bigger than the $30 ones.
One other question I have is, if I test the spine on a shaft that I have, and it does not fit the poundage on my bow, does that shaft become useless to me at that point?
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Errrr, I've been in heated debates over that. :-\
IMHO -
Not at all,, or at least not neccesarily anyways.
I consider the measure a relatively rough estimate at best. Maybe in perfect world it would. But not in my world. ;)
Tons of variables to be considered. Things like efficiency of the design, head weight, are shafts tapered, string weight (if silencers, clickers, etc. are used), nock fit, amount of center shot if any, and there's probably more.
I use it for comparative evaluations mostly.
I'll find a arrow that shoots good, measure the spine, try a couple above and below. Then I try and find additional arrows in the middle of what seems to work.
Also, way too many times I'll order 60# shafts (0.433 deflection I think). I'll check them when I get them and if they measure .650 to .520 (40 to 50#) I'll call and get them exchanged or refunded.
Without a tester you'd have no clue until you've made them and then it's too late.
Never had a supplier argue with me if I threw numbers at them.
If I'm paying for steak, I don't accept pot roast. ;)