Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Primitive1 on January 05, 2010, 10:51:58 am
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Hi all, it's been awhile...hmmm, looks like things heated up some while I have been away? Anyway, great to back on the forum...lots has happened but that's for another post.
I have a 'limb' of osage that I've heated into a deflex/reflex design...I've flattened the back and belly on the limbs only and can see the osage core wood approximately 1" on the bottom limb and 3/4" on the top limb along their respective lengths (of course it gets somewhat less as you approach the handle due to the thickness increase). I've deflexed about 2 and 1/2" from the handle and then reflexed about 2" back out to the tips...my issue/question is, since I'm going to have to boo the back (and maybe belly) to maintain the shape and I want to go with the bamboo (got quite a bit laying around). However, I would like to keep the handle 'as is' where it is just the actual limb where it has the bark intact etc...can I boo the back without having to keep a continuous strip of boo from tip to tip? In other words, one piece of boo for one limb back and one piece of boo for the other (thinned as much as possible to avoid over-stressing the belly)? I would like to keep the belly 'as is' since it looks suhweet with the contrast of core osage and white sap wood...just hoping the belly can take it since it has the original sap wood/bark limb edges that I would like to maintain...thoughts? Thanks, P1.
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Yes, as long as the two pieces of bamboo meet in the handle area and the handle is non-bending.
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Gordon, thanks for the reply...can you help me understand your meaning of 'meet' in the handle? I'm wanting to start the boo at the beginning of the fade outs and run it out to the tips...do you mean that the boo needs to be in an unbending section of, or near, the handle area? Thanks, P1.
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If the boo is on the back they need to but up against each other. Starting a backing at the fades is asking for trouble unless you tie them down.
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Here are some pics to better explain...
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Whatever you Do....DON'T DO THIS............... ;D
This was a Super Stave that I paid 140 bucks for ...and this was the Design that the Back Bamboo was in when I got it...a Major design Flaw...and I found out the Hard Way....almost lost my Right Eye with this one.....
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I agree the boo must meet in the handle, other wise its risky the fibres of the boo will likely be stretching past the fades, if it works near the handle
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Having the bamboo terminate at the fades would be highly problematic in my view.
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It was in My View too...but I bought this Super Stave from Rudderbows...the Maker was I believe to be Vern Olstead...I believe from Washington State...and this is the Second one I bought...the first let go in a Glue Seam...and this one about put my eye out on a Tiller Stick when it Blew.... :'(
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Ballsy move selling stuff like that to the public. Must have good insurance.
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Primitive1, you might have a chance of it turning out. I would probably do it just because. But I don't mind breaking a bow either. ;) I would have a node about 1 inch from the riser end of the bamboo to keep the stress from transferring to the power fibers on the end. Leave at least 4" of stiff riser outside of where the bamboo starts. And when you tiller, PLEASE do as George says and use a tillering TREE, not a tillering stick. If it does let go you do NOT want to be pulling it by hand.
El D, That isn't just a backing that doesn't go all the way, that is a whole limb that doesn't. The way that is designed it should have had bolts to hold the limbs on. You didn't have a chance.
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El D, That isn't just a backing that doesn't go all the way, that is a whole limb that doesn't. The way that is designed it should have had bolts to hold the limbs on. You didn't have a chance.
Like I said....Bought it from Rudderbows....but they don't handle them any more....Imagine that........ >:(....I am out $160 and almost had one eye.....You are right...but then Hindsite is 20-20...should have never bought it with the way it was designed...but then they said that They had sold thousands of them just like it...when they replaced the first one...and I was stupid enough to try it again....dang Him ...His Bow Blanks and His Dachshunds he has all over Him all the time.....He was from Dabob Bay...or some place...Dabob Bows is who Rudder was buying the Staves from at the time I bought it...I think this Guy is out of Business or possibly Dead by now....maybe someone els knows.............. :P
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but then they said that They had sold thousands of them just like it...
Fairly easy claim to make.... How many lived is the question you should have asked. ;D >:D
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Just for conversation, there used to be a guy on the net that sold bow blanks, called Dabob, his bows were just like El D's, maybe these were super staves. I finished two of them for a friend, not a bad design, maybe lucky on my part I don't know. Don't know that I'd build a bow that way, prolly more like Gorgon said a nice mitered joint in the handle.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v199/dlgren/Archery/Bows/Dabobbow002.jpg)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v199/dlgren/Archery/Bows/Dabobbow001.jpg)
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Thats them....read my Post up above..........
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I read your post Mike, ::) these were Dabob bows not rudderbows.
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I read your post Mike, ::) these were Dabob bows not rudderbows.
Rudder sold them for a few Years though...the Guy that made them was Vernon Olstead (sp) from Dabob Bay Washington
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I stand corrected Mike, your right, not a great design.
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Yikes! That's a design just looking for trouble :o
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El Destructo, that was a close one! :o For you espeacially, and almost for me. I tried to buy one of those super staves 2 or 3 years ago from rudderbows, and they had just quit selling them! I thought they were cool looking, but I bet not when they come apart one you. Glad I missed out on those!
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Dano, how about a picture of the transition from riser to limb. I think the concept has merit as long as there is some long taper from riser to limb and not close to the end of the boo. Yours doesn't have that little wedge in it like El D's. It appears to be a bad choice of wood that separated under load.
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That's what I was thinking too Justin, tomorrow I'll get some better pictures.
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It kinda looks like Mike's had Purpleheart, also, or Osage. Both can be a problem with glue joints if not prepared properly.
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i think it can be done, if done right. long fades will be important, but also i would taper your boo backing gradually down to nothing where it ends in the riser (near your hands). give it a go.
El'D bow didn't have a chance on the point of such short fades, and the fact that the core lams were gone, as justin said. but the other that survived has much longer fades. i think this is a plausable design if done right.
i always wear glasses when testing a new bow!
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I had a six inch section of limb break free of a white oak bow, and it took my glasses with it, sending them across the shop. Whacked me in the temple, and at first I thought the blurred vision was due to a head injury, before I realized I had no glasses. :P
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It kinda looks like Mike's had Purpleheart, also, or Osage. Both can be a problem with glue joints if not prepared properly.
Thats exactly what it was ....the Limbs were Bamboo...Osage.... Purpleheart...and the Riser was Black Walnut with Paduak(sp) and Hickory strips for an accent...what I believe happened is the Bamboo Power Lam let go and cause the Bow to Fail....JMO
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Well, I'm not going to make a monster out of her, just around 45-50#...plus I'm hoping that the deflex at the handle helps relieve some (if any) stress at the handle fade out...hmmm, still undecided...which is okay for now, still working through makeup of a half dozen arrows.
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Here's a few more pictures. As you can see in the first one, the bamboo is the thickest at the start of the fades.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v199/dlgren/Dabobbow002.jpg)
These bows did have a nice long taper at the fades, as you can see here.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v199/dlgren/Dabobbow001.jpg)
But upon closer inspection I found the finish is lifting at the begining of the osage lams in the handle, so this bows a wall hanger now :-[
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v199/dlgren/Dabobbow003.jpg)
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I think it would have been fine if the Osage cores had gone on the belly of the riser with the Osage belly lam. I think Primitive1 should be fine because if is a boo backing on one piece of wood.
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Could it still not just be drilled and put a Bolt and Washer in each Limb...and make it like a Take Apart...without being able to take it apart?? Just a Thought...hate to see it sitting on a Wall.... ;)
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Mike the bow was a dog any way, it's really just taking up space. ::)