Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Artus on December 15, 2009, 03:24:09 pm
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Hey guys!
I´m from Austria and right now i´m in the states. And I was looking for some Bow finish. My first choice was Tru Oil, but I couldnt find any. But I found some Rub On Polyurethan from Miniwax is that good? What finishes do you use?
Thanks
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Find a gun shop or sporting goods store for Tru Oil. Any good wood finish should work well for bows.
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Thanks! I´ll keep my eyes opened. What finish would be similar to Tru Oil, just in case I can´t find any?
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Tru-Oil is a linseed oil finish with additives to promote quick drying. You may be able to make a similar finish with boiled linseed oil and Japan dryer; a oil painting quick dry additive. Some folks use tung oil with pretty good results too.
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I get my Tru-Oil at Wal-mart
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Allright could be an alternative. What about that Miniwax rub on stuff? Here is the Link:
http://www.minwax.com/products/oil_based_clear_protective_finishes/wipe_on_poly.html
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I've used a marine varnish in the past, with good results, TruOil has done well for me, too. Currently I've gotten lazy and use Jasco® Tung oil, because it is locally available. All work well for me, though the Tung oil has the least resin type additives and thus takes more coats to build the finish I like. I think most tung and linseed oils already have japan driers added---- read the label before buying. A "boiled" or 'quick drying' oil will have the driers already, as will any commercial varnish. (A varnish is just drying oil with some sort of resin dissolved into it.)
Ron
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Ok! Thank you! But hasn´t anybody made any expirience with this minwax rub-on stuff? Seems to be interesting...
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I dont know that one but all urethan is ok. Bit slower drying as the acryl but have nice surface and protect well. With steel wool should work down the surface matt and very fine. Put some more solvent in and it will easyer to brush.
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Thanks!
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I've used the rub on minwax poly. I works pretty good. I used the glossy then had to go over it with 0000 steel wool to take off the shine. I really like Tru-Oil the best. If you use the rub on, put on light coats or it will run on ya.
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Go for the Tru Oil if you can find it... the time you save between coats in prep will be worth the efforts for finding the Tru Oil. Another thing i have noticed about poly of about any type or brand... it has a tendency to yellow (a lot) with age, and is to me more of a surface finish than one that will penetrate. Rub on poly is usually just a more thinned down version of polyurethane varnish, so maybe it would penetrate a little more, but in the end I have to hang my hat on Tru Oil or tung oil. Actually I believe that Tru Oil is a mix of both boiled linseed, and tung oil with some added drying catalysts.
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I prefer tru oil too.
I have made similar finishes, but they do not dry as fast as tru-oil; I can't figure out the catalyst they use and they keep that information under wraps!
The problem with most boiled linseed oil is that it is not boiled, it is cheaper for the manufactorers to add dryers instead.
I make my finishes by heating the linseed oil in the microwave until it darkens in colour. That is usually about 4-5minutes for about 300mls. It will not boil unless you put in boiling chips. The boiling is unneccessary anyway, what you want is high temperature and the corresponding colour change in the oil, and of course, an understanding wife;D, because it stinks when you cook it.
A recipe I have used with good results is:
60% Boiled Linseed oil
20% Tung oil
15% Spar varrnish
5% vegetable turps
I mix all these ingredients together when cold and then add another (about) 4% terbebine by volume to the mix (you can by this at paint shops)
The results is a good, durable and lusterous finish which is easially repaired. It does take time to dry though; at least 24 hours for the 1st coat and 12 hours for each corresponding coat. Mix it up in small volumes because it will harden in the jar after about 2 years
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Good to know what is this tru oil, allways read about and tought is a special thing. Now I know I have all component on the shelf :)
All art shop or paint shop could by sicative to fastening dry of the oil colors. For a 100ml oil approx a coffe spoon enough to fasten drying.
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Ok! So I´ll try to find an armstore.
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http://www.minwax.com/products/specialty_products/antique_oil_finish.html
What would you think about this??
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Is there a reason to not just use olive oil and then some beeswax? I am just asking because that's what I usually use, is the preservation quality not as good or is there a particular reason you use the products you've listed? Thanks.
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Artus,
I have actually tried the antique oil finish before and it seemed pretty decent... can't complain much about it except for the drying time.
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Is this stuff similar to tru oil, or is true oil far better? How long was the drying time.
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Sometimes I use oils and wax but mostly urethan because it is removeable if any repair or other color needs etc. Oil could remove with just one layer wood....but it is nice & natural.
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I use tru oil it's easy to apply dries quick and rub down with oooo steel wool betwine coats and put on about 4 coats.
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I´m gonna try to get tru oil in Montreal next week.
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I mix all these ingredients together when cold and then add another (about) 4% terbebine by volume to the mix (you can by this at paint shops)
Kiwijim
terbebine??? Do you mean terebine? Have searched for terbebine but failed to find any trace of it however have found terebine which is described as:
"A lead free, resin based, drier. Designed to be mixed into paint, oils and varnishes to improve drying. Mix ratio is 1:16 or 250mls per 4L of paint, oil or varnish."
Craig.
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I use beeswax with an occasional linseed ouil rub like in the old days. No problems in thirty years.
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Spar urethane is what I use as a sealer coat. # coats will do it. It is an exterior finish. It will go over stains and even Tru Oil. Tru Oil makes a great grain filler. Jawge
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I've use the rub on a lot ... on arrows and bows and it is a very nice finish and holds up very well.
Even on an arrow I lost in the spring turkey hunting and found in the fall while turkey hunting!! It still had a nice finsh on it!!
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I use beeswax with an occasional linseed ouil rub like in the old days. No problems in thirty years.
Yeah one of the guys that has been sort of mentoring me here says a bow needs to breath and sealing it is not a good idea in his opinion. He taught me the most sealing he does is with a bit of bear fat and some beeswax, but I don't have bear fat around the house so I use olive oil and a stick of beeswax I got for a guy I get honey from locally. Seems to have worked fine for me, but I have had bows change with the weather a bit more than someone who probably seals them completely. I don't have any problem with that though, so I guess it's just up to the individual and how much streamlined performance they want.
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...I don't have bear fat around the house so I use olive oil and a stick of beeswax...
Is there a reason to not just use olive oil and then some beeswax? I am just asking because that's what I usually use...
Hi all,
What's the procedure for beeswax/oil finishing? My finishing experience, sadly, is limited to slapping something water based on a bookshelf and getting the books on as quick as possible.
Frode
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Frode,
The way I typically do it is oil it up until it has a very thin cover on it, not where it is super oily/shiny, usually with just some cheesecloth/paper towel and wipe the remnants off with a clean cloth.
Then I take it and rub it down with the cloth until I can tell that the oil has been worked in, you don't need very much oil for the way I do it and you don't want to put to much on because you will have a hard time with getting the beeswax worked in later. Just polish it with your cloth until you can't tell that the oil has been applied, you don't want to be able to have oil on your hands when you run them over the bow.
Once it's clean of any remaining oil I take the beeswax and work it all over the bow, kind of like you would a surfboard or the bottom of a skateboard. Then you rub the snot out of the beeswax until the friction is basically melting the wax and working it into the wood, it seals it a bit but it's not like a chemical seal, so it's not water proof. It will bead off most water and you have to reapply the treatment every now and then, 1 or 2 every year depending on how rough you are on the bow.
Doing it this way doesn't give it a super shine like some of the chemical treatments, but like I said it's just my preference to do it this way and I am not a professional woodworker, so it may be the wrong thing to do entirely :) I just like the way it looks and it gives my bows a measure of protection from water and hand oils, plus they smell like honey which may not be a good thing for hunting :) I also like that it gives it a natural luster to the finish and it's not to glossy, I'm not particularly fond of glossy bows. Some of the glossed ones are really pretty because it brings out the character of the wood, but again it's just personal preference that I do it this way.
I have noticed that my bows tend to be affected by weather more than some of the treated bows that I have shot on the same day, so you might want to take this into account. I don't mind working with change in bows though and for me that's just part of the character of these wood bows. If I wanted something that wasn't sort of alive in my hands I would shoot a modern bow with all the fixins.
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Thanks, Michael C. I'm looking for something without fumes, that would provide a little protection for a bow that's mostly going to be used for fair weather/indoor target shooting. The bow is maple, and beeswax sounds like it would bring out the depth of the grain without an overpowering gloss. I'll try it out on some scrap today.
Frode
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Yeah I have had good luck with it bringing out birds eye in some Ponderosa Pine, but it's not as much pop as chemicals do. I'm like you I just don't like dealing with chemicals if I have to, did enough of that when I was in college ;D
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thoughts of mine on different bow finishes: http://analogperiphery.blogspot.com/2009/02/selfbow-finishes.html
hope it helps
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Artus...that Minwax Antique Oil Finish is a combination of Linseed Oils and Varnish...it should work just fine....but they really don't reccommend it for Outside Use....so I think I would still stick to the Wipe On Poly or Tru Oil myself....JMO
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Wow I feel like I said something right now, all except the heat gun boiling part, I just apply it in two parts and rub it till my hand feels like it's going to burn off. I've heated up the oil sometimes but never put the beeswax in with it. That way sounds much easier with boiling or heating it with the gun. The third eye comment made me laugh. Maybe the unnatural stuff doesn't offer too much more water resistance than I thought, but I have noticed a difference in shooting, maybe it's just my bows I'm making :)