Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Kegan on November 09, 2009, 06:32:33 pm
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Bamboo Backed Oak ;D
This is the boo backed red oak I mentioned in the previous thread. She's 68" long, 67" between the 5/16" wide nocks. Pulls 45# at 28", this is this is the first bow I've glued in Perry reflex (started with an inch and a half, settled in at straight). This is the first bow I started going stiff on the tips, and this bow shoots a 520 gr arrow faster than any other bow I've built (not 550 gr for clarification- my brother lied to me ;D). The handle is a dark piece of red oak and ash, locator style. With a 12 strand FF Plus string, all I have to do is serve it. Did something new with that, by the way; I reinforced the bottom end before I tied in the bowyer's knot- no issues and no slipping. I'll be doing that from now on.
I used the boo from a failed bow, so it's narrow and then I crowned it more to make it look pretty. The limbs themselves are 1 3/4" wide- and NOT good red oak. Actually, this oak was pretty crappy by all standards. I glued it up a few months ago, so I have no idea why I used this piece, but I'm happy now because this bow turned out to be a real winner. Being a little lighter than I use and shorter in draw, I have the feeling this is going to make a nice gift :)
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nice bow Kegan!! Tiller looks great and you are right... those are some narrow tips! Nice save from a bad piece of red oak and failed boo bow. Got a shooter outta materials others probably woulda thrown away and called a loss. That is awesome. :) -josh
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Howdy Kegan,
Thanks for sharing this BBO (and all of your others bows) with us.
You mentioned that this bow is 1-3/4" wide. How far out did you keep it 1-3/4"? (At what point did you begin your taper(s)?)
I was working on two Ash bows today. (I'm not as fast as you are.) One of them will need to be backed. So, could I (should I) put in 2'' of perry reflex even though it already has about 1"+ natural reflex? I intend to back this Ash with an 1/8" Maple backing. (The Maple lath is also from a failed bow that I had sitting around. ;))
And, at what point, in tillering, did you narrow your tips to their final width (5/16")
A lingering question I have been thinking about lately is; how could I tell when my narrowed tips are just thick enough so that there isn't any extra weight, yet it will keep the tips stiff?
Thanks again for sharing.
All the Best,
Canoe
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Beautiful example of the bow that cannot be built...there are quite a few guys around that said boo cannot back red oak cuz it will crush it. Hope this one lasts as long as Manny's and mine have.
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Nice bow Kegan!
Tiller looks good as usual on your bows!
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Nice bow,good job. :)
Pappy
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KEgan, nice bow! I noticed you mentioned a FF string??? If I were you I'd reinforce those tips with overlays and use a dacron string...wouldn't want to see the tips get cut or broke thru....
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That purty Kegan. I've yet to back anything with boo - good job.
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Beautiful example of the bow that cannot be built...there are quite a few guys around that said boo cannot back red oak cuz it will crush it. Hope this one lasts as long as Manny's and mine have.
...yeah that is a good point stiknstring... I have had a few failures trying to back red oak with bamboo... Just another reason to celebrate keegan's success with his. One day I hope I can build one! -josh :)
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Nice looking bow Kegan, good work.
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Thanks all! About boo crushing oak... only if you mess up. And well... I have a low spot ;D!
There is a low spot in the top limb and the belly has compresion fractures. No worries though, I'll just get a hickory patch on it with some two-ton epoxy (if it works on 80# bows...). I'll have photos of it after I fix that. Kinda wish I caught it before I put the finish on, but at least the bow didn't die.
Easternarcher- I've used FF on heavy bows, without overlays, without issue. I HATE Dacron; the stretch is terrible. I plait my loops with a few strands of B-50 so the loops aren't tiny cutting things, and if my heavy bows haven't failed with them, I'm not worried.
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I have noticed some other boo-backed red oak bows over on paleoplanet. Some of them are narrow (1 1/4-1 1/2) and longer (68-69"). Is it a good idea perhaps to keep such a bow a little narrower and longer to keep the boo to red oak ratio better; on a shorter, wider bow it would seem that the red oak would have to become pretty thin, whereas on a longer, narrower bow the red oak would remain thicker. Is this the case? Or does it matter as long is the boo is trapped? Kegan has inspired me to attempt a boo-backed red oak bow!
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I really don't know :D. I think that narrow and thick makes it easier to easier to avoid low spots- like on this one, that low spot sort of snuck up on me. Also, I don't think I trapped my boo enough to get the full benefit.
I'd like to see a boo backed white oak bow ;D.
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Wow you guys tend to go really narrow on the handles...I never trim thinner than an inch...seldom less than 1.25".
Looks good, though.
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I've done alot of 3/4" handles. Recently I realized that on heavier bows this hurts, so I'll go conservatively on the next few... 1" ;D
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Nice looking bow. Definitely on the lightweight side for you.
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really nice Bow Kegan!!
BBO is a beautiful combo, think thats my next projekt ;D
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Thank you :)
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Great job Kegan,I really like that one.NICE. God Bless
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Got this laminate bookmarked. Hopefully not confusing it with your other fine entries for Nov.