Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: Swamp Bow on October 21, 2009, 12:23:57 am
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At what point do people back a potential bow? Right from the start? At some point when they feel the bow is likely to make it? Some other point? I've always backed from the start, but I've gotten the impression that others may not. I tried the other way last night, and obviously should have stopped to back it at one less inch of draw. BOOM! I can see an advantage to waiting until the rough shaping and floor tillering is done though. Oh well, live and learn.
Swamp
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With wood backings I start off with a backed stave. For rawhide, cloth or paper backing I add that as soon as I realize it needs a backing. Other than that I don't back bows.
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Thanks Pat. I'm just curious what other people do. Trying to get better and all that. Well, yes if I had something other than board lumber I'd not feel the need to back all of my bows either. :) That will change soon though. Just talked to one of my neighbors, and he has a 12-14" ERC that was blown down but not killed by hurricane Charley. I couldn't get in there easily and see just how big the trunk was, but I'll bet it's at least 12" a foot or so from the base. He wants to get rid of it. I offered to take care of it. ;D I'm looking forward to chasing some rings and having some barter material.
Swamp
Edit: Changed to 12-14" not 12-24"
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I back them usually after I get them full braced and all of the heat or steam work is done.Before
I put them on the tiller board. :)
Pappy
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I floor tiller then glue up in reflex. Then I string with long string and begin tillering. :) -josh
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After I get my reflex/recurve set, before I start tillering.
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I don't do backings of wood but if I did I'd do them right from the start. Backings like rawhide, silk, etc I do after long string tillering and before the bow's first stringing. Jawge
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Swamp, you don't have to chase a ring on the ERC. You can make very good bows with all sapwood, all heartwood or a combo of both.
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Okay seems most choose either from the start or after it has a bend in it from the long string. I guess the idea is if it breaks before the short string or there abouts, it probably won't survive anyway? That would make sense to me.
PatB,
I've never worked ERC as bowwood. Are you saying that a slelfbow made out of ERC does not need a single ring on the back? What about side run out? If that is the case, should I just saw out my staves and save my back from having to split logs? Sounds a little iffy, but I'll be the first to admit I don't know squat.
Thanks
Swamp
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i do alot of backing just my style. and i put mine on at bout the time i get it to brace and start bending a little i use to put it on after tiller but changed my ways a little.
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Swamp, You should split the log. If it is growing straight(not spiraled)you will get straight staves. Seal the ends then remove the bark. The wood under the bark is the back of your bow. I would seal that also after you remove the bark. If each split is thick enough you might be able to split of belly splits. They will be all heartwood. You can chase to a good ring so you have sapwood back with a heartwood belly.
I have seen and shot a very nice ELB style bow that was just sapwood and was impressed by how well it shot.
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My self I rough them out , do the steam ,heat shapeing , then back them before I start pulling them on the tiller tree.
Dennis
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Thanks everyone.
PatB Thanks for the info on ERC. That clears things up.
Swamp
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Good luck. Looking forward to seeing the results! ;)
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Thanks, I'll either post a pic of the bow or the funeral pyre!