Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: radius on September 24, 2009, 02:48:56 pm
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(http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk314/NomadArchery/oak%20recurves/Picture013-1.jpg)
this one is 60" OAL, static recurves, 44# @ 26" draw...a fast bow...very smooth to draw and comfortable in the hand
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I just got done posting about ur Holmegaard and I see this...great work and tiller I'll get there I need a few more tools ex.bandsaw and waitin on a new drawknife cant wait!!!! RADIUS ur the man keep it up!!!
CHEERS!!!
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dude, the little ryobi bandsaw is super cheap and works great for bow making...
if you buy boards for bowmaking, you get the benefit of no knots and so on, but you have to be choosy with the grain...watch the natural tendency of the board to warp and twist, cup and bow...
if you recurve, DO NOT USE THE RIFT SAWN SECTIONS. The straight up quarter cut section bent fine, with minimal cracking. Plain sawn (or simply, staves) bend well, too, from what i see on here. But the rift sawn sections (grain running at 45 degrees) present too much stress and even though i prepared the rift sawn stave the most (made it thinnest, cleaned up the rough edges most) it cracked the worst.
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You've been tillering holmey's too much. ::) All the work is going on in the inner limbs.
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You've been tillering holmey's too much. ::) All the work is going on in the inner limbs.
actually Dano, when you slowly draw it on the tiller tree, you can see the whole thing bending, even if slightly...it's true, though , i definitely tried to stay away from the tips, because i didn't want the belly underlays to pop off!
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Another great looking bow. You sure do pump them out.
Heck, Im trying to finish up my hunting bow for this season. Got two weeks left till opening day. I think ill get it done. If not, there are always my other bows. ;)
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i do crank em out when i get rolling yeah, but then i won't make a single bow for months on end...i've got 3 recurves coming right now, too, plus a yew longbow...
this recurve and the 66" recurve are done, tillered in, tru oil's curing...i'll show ya soon...
thanks for the good words, guys...can you believe my roommate thinks this is cool?????????
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i agree with dano
all the work is in the iner limbs
but does look decent,hows it shoot?
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.. plus a yew longbow...
Oooooh me too, just started chopping out a Yew longbow from a stave I cut in March, I'll get it to floor tiller than leave it some more.
I tend to only have one on the go at a time, but I shall start my stave harvesting soon :)
Del
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(http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk314/NomadArchery/oak%20recurve%2066/Picture004.jpg)
okay okay you guys are right...i really tried to stay out of there, though, while not getting to close to the belly underlays...
this pic shows the handle of one of the holmies (all them handles were the same) compared to the handle of this bow...
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Howdy Radius,
Hey, I have another 60 in. Red Oak board with good grain running very straight on the sides and edges. (It appears to be plain sawn.)
Do you think I could put one of these together that can handle a 28" draw, with 45+ lb.s?
If so, what limb widths should I go with? And, does this bow bend through the handle at all?
I know from another post that I should leave the recurved section thicker until after it's heat bent, but I don't know how much thicker?
Thanks,
canoe
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Got your nifty weapon bookmarked for Sept BOM fun :)
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Howdy Radius,
Hey, I have another 60 in. Red Oak board with good grain running very straight on the sides and edges. (It appears to be plain sawn.)
Do you think I could put one of these together that can handle a 28" draw, with 45+ lb.s?
If so, what limb widths should I go with? And, does this bow bend through the handle at all?
I know from another post that I should leave the recurved section thicker until after it's heat bent, but I don't know how much thicker?
Thanks,
canoe
Well, sir, i think you should go for it! And maybe you'll do like these guys say, and make it bend more in the outer limbs, hahaha.
I recurved these things all at different thicknesses, and they all cracked, even if i boiled them for an HOUR. Once a long time ago i made a red oak recurve, boiled again, and that came out well...can't remember how thick.
Just get cracking and let's see what you come up with, amigo.
Scott
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more pics
(http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk314/NomadArchery/oak%20recurve%2060/Picture015.jpg)
(http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk314/NomadArchery/oak%20recurve%2060/Picture016.jpg)
(http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk314/NomadArchery/oak%20recurve%2060/Picture017.jpg)
(http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk314/NomadArchery/oak%20recurve%2060/Picture018.jpg)
i really love the grain and the pith rays in this wood, which is also sometimes called golden oak. Using the tru oil, you can really see why. Overkill on the tip underlays, but i still like this one alot, the arrows really strain to fly off the string...yes, even just in my apartment.
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here's a couple funny pics for ya
(http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk314/NomadArchery/oak%20recurve%2060/Picture020.jpg)
(http://i283.photobucket.com/albums/kk314/NomadArchery/oak%20recurve%2060/Picture021.jpg)