Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Arrows => Topic started by: CodyCoyote on August 02, 2009, 09:20:54 pm
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Im new to making arrows but im making a bow So i will need arrows, can I buy dowel rods from a hardware store and use that for arrow shafts? I cant find river cane to use. Also how do you fletch your arrows? Do you use a jig or wing it? Will crow wing feathers make good fletchings? I didnt save the feathers from the turkey I shot.
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you'de have to spine them (match their bendieness to your bows draw weight) or it could be a dangerous thing to do
im gonna order bulk dowels b/c i just built a spine tester, they work fine if spined
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Any other cheap easy way to make arrows that wont blow up on me?
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make a spine tester :D
been there, thought that ::)
its honestly really easy
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http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,4589.0.html
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You can make very good arrows from dowels if you are particular about picking them out. Find ones that don't have severe grain run offs and that feel about the same when you bend them. If they are too stiff you can sand the center of the shaft to reduce the spine.
Initially, leave the dowels long then reduce the length until you find a length that shoots best or your bow at your draw length.
Depending on the draw weight of your bow, 5/16" to 3/8" dowels work best for arrows.
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YEah, I've used dowels and they work great. Like Pat said, make sure the ones you choose don't have any grain run off strongly to one side. I've made them and they work very well, and fly surprisingly straight. You might have to do some experimenting with different dowels to find the ones that fly best off your bow. Once you do, try to get ones with the same stiffness (and of course pick the ones that are the straightest). And yes, crow feathers will work well for fletching. Tip them with sharp stone points and they will be absolutely deadly.
I shot some dowel arrows out of a 30-lb bow that I made for a girl, and they flew surprisingly well....and surprisingly fast. I wouldn't have hesitated to hunt deer with that set up because it shot so well.
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Thanks thats what i will use, now i need a crow...
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I only use dowel rods ;D. I order birch ones form a craft's place down in Texas. I order 100-200 and spine them out- culling ones with severe run offs. However, I've notced that when you use big feathers (like high shield backs) you can get away with unspined arrows for close range practice. I had alot of 90-100+ spined arrows that I turned itno nutters or blunts or Tarantulas for stump shooting. I use 3/8" and they spine out for my bows at 70-85# and my brother's bows, 60-65#, with some lighter and many stiffer. Teh require straightenning and a little snading, but that's it.
I've also used corw, they work well. Not as good as turkey or goose, but definately cheaper ;)
We use a fletching jig. I've done alot by hand, but I prefer a fletching jig now.
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I think the best thing to will do is experiment, Im buying two good dowels, making ( or trying) my own arrow and seeing what I like best. For 49 cents a crow and a rock I might like it. Which style would be better to flectch. Like the cherrokee or one on each side glued on?
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Three glued on works, but Cherokee two-fletch is pretty reliable. It's also easier with crow featehrs, as they're harder to split than turkey :P
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With smaller feathers like from a crow I like to use either 3 or 4, laid backside down around the shaft. When viewed from the nock or point end it will have a helical effect. These are attached with a wrap at the forward and rear ends only.
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y199/PatBNC/tangential3fletch006.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y199/PatBNC/tangential3fletch007.jpg)
(http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y199/PatBNC/tangential3fletch008.jpg)
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I use dowels for all my arrows, I have the same advice as everyone else, no severe grain run off and try to spine them as you pick them out. I just bend them by hand, not probably the most accurate method but I can usually hit what i'm shooting at.
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Howdy Group,
Hey, regarding getting correct spine from dowels, PatB just said, "If (the dowels) are too stiff you can sand the center of the shaft to reduce the spine.
Initially, leave the dowels long then reduce the length until you find a length that shoots best or your bow at your draw length."
Is this correct? I mean, can I simply sand the center areas of my dowels until I get the spine I want, and the arrows will then fly well?
Cool!! And Thanks - I thought I would have to get a consistant diameter across the whole shaft.
Canoe
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You don't want the center too much thinner than the ends. You will have to be selective when you buy them. Flex the dowels and choose similarly bending dowels with good grain.
You can thin the entire dowel by chucking it in an electric drill and with sandpaper around the dowel run the drill while you work the sand paper up and down the shaft.Test flex often.
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Howdy PatB and others,
This thread is very interesting to me because I had recently read that dowels are too inconsistent, in spine to make arrows from. Yet, it sounds as though some folks are having success in doing so. And, I have about eight, straight grained, Red Oak dowels that I would really like to make into arrows.
I also read that 3/8" Red Oak dowels tend to have a spine up around 80 to 90 lb.s.
So, how much sanding does it take to bring the spine down to the 50 lb.s range? Is it worth the effort?
And, can I use 36 grit sand paper or do I have to use something a little finer like 100 grit? I guess I could use a finer grit as I approach a 50 lb spine. (Yes, PatB, I'll put the dowels into a hand drill chuck when I try this.)
I also have a pile of dried shoots that I collected earlier this spring (Red Osier Dogwood, Cherry, and Basswood). I'm looking forward to getting started on these, and I'm sure I'll be asking plenty of questions when I get going. (I've already spent some time heat straightening these shoots, but they need a lot more work in straightening and reducing their thickness (spine)).
Oh, BTW, I'm building a spine tester this week.
Thanks Guys,
Canoe
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The inconsistency of dowels means that if you buy 100 dowels, they will gane from say, 35-40 (some really crummy ones), all the way to 100+ for the super-stiff ones. Once you spine them out, then it's the same thing as a store bought arrow shaft.
For bows up to about 50#, hardwood dowels can be bought at 5/16". Saves you alot of sanding- you'll jsut have to be very careful to buy only the stiffer ones.
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Another trick is to leave them long. I once got a 108# bare shaft to fly from a 50# bow. Of course, it was 32" long and had a 160 grain point, but it flew. I have a 26" draw, BTW. Try those oak shafts full length, and trim as necessary. You may be surprised. Also, as the shaft gets stiffer, there's less difference in deflection. In other words, an 80# shaft and a 90# shaft will be closer in spine than a 20# shaft and a 30# shaft.
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Howdy ScatterShot,
That's a very interesting comment you made in pointing out the connection between spine and arrow length.
When a 32" arrow's spine is measured at 28", the resulting spine(?) (bendiness) will increase. So, yes, we can adjust arrow flex by changing the length.
Also noted, was the connection between arrow tip weight and spine.
To change the weight of your glued-on arrow tip will affect the flex (spine) of the arrow when it is shot.
I know of two other interesting, related factors that affect flight; first is the overall arrow weight. Bear Archery published an article stating that a 600 grain arrow has a much higher penetration than a 500 grain arrow. (so, to increase the arrow length will increase its weight - increase its penetration).
Secondly, to adjust the weight of the glued-on arrow tip affects, again, the overall arrow weight and the Balance Point of the arrow. See, we can measure (with a ruler) the Center Point of an arrow. (It's half of the total length). But the Balance Point is where, on the arrow, there is equal weight on eather side of that point - (like a seesaw). Balance Point can be adjusted by changing the weight of the arrow tip. And, when the Balance Point is forward of the Center Point, you'll get improved flight. Furthermore, when your set of arrows all have the same Balance Point, their flight will be very consistant.
So, we have Spine, Arrow Length, Arrow Weight, and Balance Point of the arrow to conceder.
(Also, I think, the more red stripes you put on your arrow, the faster it goes - I know this is true for race cars.)
Really, that's more than I know about arrows. But I've been doing some reading and thinkin' about this stuff.
Now, I'm going outside to get started on building that Spine Tester.
Thanks for listening and for your comments,
Canoe
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hadn't thought of the red stripes, I'll have to give that a try!
Good shooting!
Gene