Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Arrows => Topic started by: Pat B on April 07, 2009, 11:15:57 am
-
Pappy ain't the only one whats got friends that give him nice stuff! ;D Look what was in the mail yesterday. These are hill cane arrows. Six are completed but without fletching, one Cherokee two fletch and a completed hunting arrow(this one is not hill cane) with it's one solo quiver. He also sent a bag of fleece string silencers.
The hill cane arrows all have footings but except for the color change you can't even feel the transition. They also have added wood self nocks. I'm not sure what wood Art used for the nocks and footings but they look like maple.
Here are a few pics...
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
...OH! :o I forgot to mention that it was Art Butner that sent these to me. ;D I better be more appreciative or he won't send me nothing else. :( Thanks so much, Art. You know how much I love them! 8)
-
great looking arrows Art, Pat you are one lucky fellow. Id like to see how the foots are made, looks like some fine craftsmanship for sure.
-
Beautiful arrows Pat,it is great to have good friends that are talented. :)
Pappy
-
Pappy, these will be at the Classic Show and Tell! ;) "Ain't it good to know you got a friend..." 8)
Bobby, Art told me these are a new method he is using. He didn't tell me the trade secrets though. ;) Note: not wrapped at the foreshaft. He said he has not had one break yet. I guess that's why he sent them to me...kind of a guinea pig I guess. ;D
-
Very sharp looking arrows! Great job and gesture
-
Nice arra's Pat, sounds like we all will be well armed at Pappy's :)
-
Yep, the word is out that you're the man to test arrows >:D. You're correct, that's maple foreshaft and nock material....................Chinese maple that is. That's just my standard conical insert method for both the foreshaft and nock Pat. What's new is that no wrap is required for the foreshaft. Brother Keith tested some similar arrows using that never-ending-draw of his. He couldn't get 'em to fail after shooting 'em into a red oak tree using his 58# boo bow.
Oh, could have swore that broadheaded arrow was made out of your hill cane. Oh well, must have been the one I didn't get back that day of hunting. Glad you like 'em.
ART B
-
COOL! 8)
-
Art, the hunting arrow just says "cane" on it and not hill cane like the others.
-
Thanks everyone, glad you like my work. I wrote a lot about the conical method I use on cane/boo arrows on the old PA board. Can those still be pulled up?
Pat, if it's around 550gr then it's some of the hill cane that you sent me several years ago. Hill cane and Tonkin/Bambusa are the only cane I'll broadheaded. Switch/river cane and some of the lighter boo I use with target points.
ART B
-
I think it has 546gr or something like that written between the feathers. Perfect weight for my next elk hunt!!! ;D
-
Yep, that's one of your cane Pat.
For those of you interested here's how I do my conical inserts.
I made my conical drill bit from a 5/8" wood spade bit. Just used the existing tip taper and filed the back to match which created the conical design.
First a note here: use thick walled cane with the conical system. For thin walled stuff then go with a pin and shoulder system and use a wrap. Wrap some masking tape around the end of the cane shaft and drill out the pith. I secure my shaft in a vise and eye ball.
The conical insert I taper in an electric drill using a file. Drill also secured in a vise.
Now for gluing in the insert. I use the cheap thin runny super glue that Wally World sell. Reason for the thin runny glue is that it penetrates the pith better and gives more time for alignment. Don't worry if things don't come out exactly lined up. You can heat straighten later.
ART B
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
Here's one I tested myself. Boy, it's not easy to hit a target just one inch wide (iron pipe) ;D.
Note the split foreshaft and blunted field point. But no damage to the joint.
ART B
[attachment deleted by admin]
-
I see you are using Jason's arrows for your testing. ;D
-
Naw, I wouldn't do that to Jason. That set belonged to my buddy Ira O:).
ART B
-
Art, I noticed that you did a fancy dye job on those shafts? I didn't know anyone else did that? That is a nice pattern. Cool arras!
I wrote an article for PA on dyeing cane last month.Not sure when it is gonna be released though.
-
Pat, arent you and Pappy doing good lately. I did not have to look at your later post to know who made these fine arrows. I could recognise that broadhead from a mile away. Beautiful work Art, I still treasure the arrows you made for me three years ago and one of them still has a date with destiny, hopefully in September. If I got it right you just drill out the shaft with the spade bit, taper the footing and glue? Probably sounds easier than it really is. Sure is going to be some nice arrows at the classic. That lucky dog Pappy will be easter egg hunting for monthes. Kenneth
-
Kenneth, we must be doing something right. That one hunting arrow smells like elk heart to me! ;)
-
You got it Toyota
-
Appreciate the kind words guys! No dye used on the shafts Timo. I scraped the rind off and done an Indian burn with the propane torch. Only problem with the burn job is that it causes extra work as far as straightening. But I think the look is well worth it.
Kenneth, the drilling and tapering is a very simple procedure really. Once you do a few, that part becomes the simplest and easiest part of cane arrow making. As I mentioned earlier, if your foreshaft glue-up isn't perfectly straight, then a little heat straightening with take care of that. Good luck this fall.
ART B
-
Very cool arrows Art.( or should I say,"Cool art" arrows)?I love um.
I think you'll like the atricle, it is something a bit different.
-
Thanks Timo! That reminds me, I need to renew my subscription. I like different 8)!
ART B
-
Art, I don't think I've ever seen an arrow you make that looks even average. Those are nice, hope you are doing alright.
-
Thanks Eddie! Good to hear from you. Yeah, got a few more complaints, but besides that, I'm doing OK. Hope you are as well.
ART B