Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => Bows => Topic started by: DirtyDan on January 09, 2009, 10:15:38 pm
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I got tired of going outside to tiller my bows in the rain and cold, so I went to Lowe's and bought a fake tile-covered masonite panel for $15. I bought two pulleys and some rope and mounted my bow scale on the top of my tillering rope. I used a grid system with different colored magic markers to indicate where I was at each 4 inch section of the bend. It is really easy to see where the flat spots are and where more wood needs to be removed. With the scale already mounted, you can also make sure of the weight of your pull as you progress. I really think this system is helpful. I will try to submit some pictures and discuss what I look for as the bow bends. Hope this gives you an idea, if you haven't thought of it already.
Dan Spier(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm219/spiermo/new%20tiller%20board/DSC_0503.jpg)(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm219/spiermo/new%20tiller%20board/DSC_0508.jpg)(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm219/spiermo/new%20tiller%20board/DSC_0510.jpg)
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If you look at each square and the corresponding square on the other side, you can see where the bow is bending too much or too little.(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm219/spiermo/new%20tiller%20board/DSC_0516.jpg)(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm219/spiermo/new%20tiller%20board/DSC_0515.jpg)
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Look at 3 A, 4 A, and where the limb crosses 5 A. It looks pretty even at this point. Measure with your eye or a ruler the space below or above the limb at 6 B. At this point the bow is bending pretty even. Now let's look at full draw.
(http://i297.photobucket.com/albums/mm219/spiermo/new%20tiller%20board/DSC_0523.jpg)
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You will now notice that at 1 A both limbs are the same. At 2 A and 3 A, however the right limb is flatter than the left limb. Remove some wood from the belly at A 2 and A 3 on the right to make the right limb bend more and match the left limb.
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Very nice set-up. I have one similar with horizontal lines, but not the verticle. I think that will be added to mine soon! Thanks for the pictures and instruction on how to use! :)
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Very cool setup...
Nice little bow there too.
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Neat-o...... ;D
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cool :) Mine is very similar. white peg board. I find more often I end up just looking at the curve by eye rather than looking at the grid. It does help though and yours looks very clear.
(http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u169/WIbowyer/P1020499.jpg)
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Man dats fancy but real nice :) I just have a piece of old cardboard with a grid drawn on it, its ugly but it works.
Someday I will upgrade :)
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That tileboard is a great idea. Next time I'm at Lowe's I'll pick up a sheet for sure.
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Almost exactly what mine looks like. I put some extra lines in the areas where the bow really bends. Justin
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I cheated and just laid it out on the Garage Wall....works for Me.....and I just hang my Fertilizer Spreader on it ...when I aint using it!!!
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I used the masonite as well - been using it for about a year now and really like it - scale slides on it real well too. And you can use dry erase pens - as long as you erase them within a few hours anyway.
See my post on the Cherry Kids bow - thats my masonite tillering board.
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Somebody also use a graphics program to place an ellipse overlay on the bow. This is used to validate the tiller.
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The one suggestion I would make is that you move the post holding the bow down like Old Bow and Jesse did so there is a line just above the bow when unbraced. It helps me to see how the bow compares to the grid and make sure it isn't rocking on the tree as I draw it. Justin
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Those are both excellent boards. I think alot of us will be copying your ideas. I know they sure will help a novice like me.
Robb
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Thanks, everyone. Justin, I think you are right. I need to work on the saddle some anyway, so I will move it down. Thanks.
Dan