Primitive Archer
Main Discussion Area => English Warbow => Topic started by: joren1993 on December 27, 2008, 12:07:11 pm
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hi all,
I had a question about a 71 inch long longbow/warbow.
I want to tiller te bow to 29inches but the stave (ash backed elm) is 71inch long.
Is it in my situation possible to make a bow which bend though the handle? or is
it saver(becaurse I want a bow that shoots not one thats in 2 pieces) to make
a victorian style longbow?
Joren1993
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finished a hickory backed yew which is 72" long, draws 32" @ 110LB. I reckon you'll be ok with what you plan.
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I have a 62 inch longbow draws 32 at 45 pounds and bends thorugh the handle, i say go for it!
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OK guys I'll keep ya posted.
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finished a hickory backed yew which is 72" long, draws 32" @ 110LB. I reckon you'll be ok with what you plan.
A 72" bow, which draws 110# @ 32"??? Could you send a pic of this bow?
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Yes i would like to see this bow too. Sounds like a good one.
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when I get over the bronchitis, I'll do my best to oblige you. Hardly a veiled accusation of lying in your PM but I'm sure you'll regret it :D
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finished a hickory backed yew which is 72" long, draws 32" @ 110LB. I reckon you'll be ok with what you plan.
I very much look forward to pics of this bow.
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As the PM I recieved was so impolite, I'd rather not share pictures. sorry
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Impolite? Some pics of your bow would be awesome. More than one person wants to see it. No one is accusing you of anything.
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Last year i built an osage bow that was 72" long 140#@32" but was a crappy shooter even though it took no set so I scraped it. Building a 71" right now for a 28" draw @ about 110# maybe 120#. Have no clue yet how this will come out, If the wood shows signs of stress as I work it I will back off on the draw weight. This bow will be an elb flight bow. The 140# felt like rubber, easy to brace and low early draw weight. Steve
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Well I guess the 60" bow that pulls 70# @ 31" that I made is an impossibility then? :D
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Mark, the bow I finished sunday was Elb style drawing 82# at 30" being 64" long. 1" wide at it's widest point. Steve
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Well I guess the 60" bow that pulls 70# @ 31" that I made is an impossibility then? :D
Heck no! I made a 62" hickory backed osage that pulls 70#@28". What kind of set did that bow take? Do you still have it? Can you send some pics? Thanks Marc.
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82#30 and 64inch long, thats quite impressive(to me).
I just glued the piece of ash on the elm, will let ya guys know
when I've roughed it out
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hi all,
I had a question about a 71 inch long longbow/warbow.
I want to tiller te bow to 29inches but the stave (ash backed elm) is 71inch long.
Is it in my situation possible to make a bow which bend though the handle? or is
it saver(becaurse I want a bow that shoots not one thats in 2 pieces) to make
a victorian style longbow?
Joren1993
Victorian style longbows don't bend through the handle.
Erik
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yes I know, but I ment building one which bends trough the handle or build one
which doesnt;)
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I would think building it to bend through the handle will be easier on the wood (as the stress is spread through the entire length of the bow)
so a full compass bow is less likely to fail (although its more difficult to make)
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yes I know, but I ment building one which bends trough the handle or build one
which doesnt;)
I would suggest that rather than tiller by eyeballing, I mark several appropriately sized arcs on a six foot length of wrapping paper with a pencil through the loop of a bowstring used as a compass. For me, that is safer.
Erik
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yes I know, but I ment building one which bends trough the handle or build one
which doesnt;)
I would suggest that rather than tiller by eyeballing, I mark several appropriately sized arcs on a six foot length of wrapping paper with a pencil through the loop of a bowstring used as a compass. For me, that is safer.
Erik
So, without "eyeballing", how do you get to your perfectly drawn curve?
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I would think building it to bend through the handle will be easier on the wood (as the stress is spread through the entire length of the bow)
so a full compass bow is less likely to fail (although its more difficult to make)
yeh now I think about it I think youre right.
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yes I know, but I ment building one which bends trough the handle or build one
which doesnt;)
I would suggest that rather than tiller by eyeballing, I mark several appropriately sized arcs on a six foot length of wrapping paper with a pencil through the loop of a bowstring used as a compass. For me, that is safer.
Erik
So, without "eyeballing", how do you get to your perfectly drawn curve?
Lay the tillered bow on the paper to check against the arcs, then reduce the parts you find too stiff.
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I like to photograph my bow on the tiller then draw an arc on the resulting picture when I am not sure how its going
e.g. (http://homepage.ntlworld.com/alan.blackham/pa/jan09/ontiller.jpg)
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I like to photograph my bow on the tiller then draw an arc on the resulting picture when I am not sure how its going
e.g. (http://homepage.ntlworld.com/alan.blackham/pa/jan09/ontiller.jpg)
If you draw the arc on paper [ or floor] before the bow is on the tiller you can make the adjustments as you go along rather than check afterward to see if you screwed up. You don't need a camera.
Erik