Adjusting arrow spine with tip weight?

[Sidewinder]

Just like the topic suggests.  What effect (spine wise) does shooting a 160g tip than a 125? I know it will weaken it, but the question is how much?
The reason I am asking is  I was having a tough time getting my arrows set up. The chart I was using said at 26 @ 55-60 # draw weight I should get 50-55# shafts. At 27@55-60 I should get 55-60# shafts so I opted for the heavy shafts because I knew that I could leave them a little longer if I had to and being at 26.5" on draw length that should put right in range. Be advised I have never really got a set of arrows set up right up to this point. So I went back and put the bow on the scale and sure enough its at 58# at 26.5. So the only thing I could think of was to go back and remeasure my draw length. Guess what? I only pull 25". Don't ask me how I got measured wrong the first time when I got started, call it inexperience. I guess I just did'nt think it was rocket science to have someone mark the shaft at the back of the bow at full draw and then measure the mark. But apparently that is the case. So now I am trying to make the adjustment to set up the arrows to be for 53@ 25  which if my chart is correct, should be a 40-45. So if someone that knows doesn't mind chiming in, here is what I have for materials. 11/32 POC  1coat stain and 3 coats laquer finish so they are a little thicker in diameter.  As I understand it, each inch over 28" is 5# less in spine from the  arrow was spined at by the supplier. Correct? So a 56# spine at 29" would be 51 and at 30 it would be 46. Correct? How much spine do I loose with just shooting a 160g tip. The benefit I could see is it adds weight overall and especially in the tips which improves my extreme FOC which should equate into better penetration if what Dr Ashby has reported in his broadhead penetration tests.  I know this was long winded but its where I'm at and look forward to some other peoples informed perspectives.  Thanks   Danny

[artcher1]

I allow two spine ranges (5 pounds per spine range) for a 160 gr point. That's what works for me. You results may vary though. So those 55-60# arrows of yours should react more like 45-50# by using the 160 gr point. That should work fine for you if you'll leave your arrows 28" (BOP) long. -ART B

[Sidewinder]

So I ran out of frickin 160g field points because they kept coming off in the macenkie bear target and I'm thorouhgly stymied. Now I have to get some more before I can continue to dial it in or switch back to 125's. I have been having a spastic fit over why my tips are coming off so easily on this one arrow. I recently started using that tip glue you melt. I keep redoing the tip and it keeps coming off. So now I'm out of material. Nuff of my whining....fer now.     Danny

[Runningbear]

Make sure your tips are really clean before glue them together.I burn out my tips before using the hot glue stick,then heat the arrow ,glue and tip.After putting it all together hot i twist them for a good snug fit.Brian.

[jamie]

 if you want 26 you can achieve it by using a more upright shooting stance.

arrow charts especially for carbon and aluminum are not using 28" as wood manufacturers use. they use 29 and 30 " shafts to spine their arrows . what chart did you use

if the tips are coming off its oil in the point or a bad taper on the shaft. points used to be cleaned as they were packeaged . now to save money they dont and the cutting oil is still in the taper. a papper towel and degreaser will clean the point well but nothing works better than a 38. bore cleaner. if the points were degreased and popping its the taper. retaper the end

[mullet]

  Get a thread tap and put threads inside your point. They don't have to be perfect. Then use Hot Melt and screw your point on.

[Sidewinder]

Thanks for the tips guys. I will try and make sure the taper is right from now on. I also think there may be something to the oil. i thin from now on I will acetone it first. Has anyone else had any probablem with the melt on glue? or could it just be a contaminanted surface that needs to be acetoned to clean it?

Thats probabley a good idea too Eddie, a little more work than I wanted but it sounds like when you get it set it stays. If I had a thread tapper I would probabley do it but I don't so I won't unless I do....lol   Danny

[koan]

I have had this problem too..glue heats up from friction goin in the target...seems worse in hay bails..you can drill and pin with a small dowal or drill and install small screw then grind off the head....Brian

[Mechslasher]

try attaching you points with superglue.  it never lets go and will release when heated with a propane torch.  the heat sticks and hot glue stuff works better on carbon and aluminum shafts.

[hawkbow]

for broadheads and field points i use ferrel tite and press the points against a block of wood before they cool... have never lost a point if i press it before the glue hardens...HAWK

[Sidewinder]

Thats a good idea Mike I will try it.   Danny

[possum]

I just torch the inside of the point while holding it with pliers.  It burns out the oils.  Then I use the hot tip to cut some glue off my hotmelt glue sticks then reheat the tip so the glue melts then put the arrow into the tip and spin test.  I had the problem of the tips coming off until I started that method.

possum