Q on bamboo arrows???

[Cromm]

Hi,
When you make your bamboo/cane arrows do you add anything onto the front of the arrow when using field points? I've been told that i should add a dowel onto the front,should i use something like the ones 3rivers sell or do i go for dowel that you use for woodworking 5mm by 30mm beech wood???
I was thinking about using screw-in points but have been informed that  they wouldn't work and would just break the end of the arrow.......

[knightd]

I use screw in points all the time!! If the hole in the end of your shaft is to small you just drill it out by hand to the same size as the shaft be shore to wrap behind the point.. If the hole is to big put a paper wad in the shaft and push it to the depth needed for the point shaft then a drop of super glue in the end will hold it in place so you can keep the glue from running down inside the shaft. you can also buy screw in points in diferent shaft sizes so get the closest one to the bamboo shaft as posible. then wrap the shaft behind the point to smooth out the transition.. I can take a few pics later to post for you..

[ZanderPommo]

I use scrw-ins and they're great, but wrap the end of the shaft BEFORE you install em' or you'll be sorry
as for glue I use a little gorilla glue cause it fills gaps, its strong, and also sorta shock resistant (plus you can get it anywhere)
then add superglue or knox glue to the seam between the cane and point when the gorilla glue is dry

Zander

[ZanderPommo]

dang it David, you posted as I was writin'!

Zander

[ZanderPommo]

oh yeah and I forgot to mentio the newspaper too

David, you got an e-mail

Zander

[Pat B]

You do not need to add a foreshaft to cane arrows. You can taper the end and add a glue on  point just like with any other shaft. I like to fill the hole with a 1" long piece of bamboo skewer or hardwood dowel but it isn't necessary. The same goes for the nock end.     Pat

[Hillbilly]

I do the same as Pat. If it's fairly thick-walled boo or cane, you don't need the plug, and a cheap bamboo skewer or a whittled out sliver of any kind of wood will work. I have also used screw-ins, and they work well if you take care to get them lined up straight-spin test it before the glue dries.

[mullet]

 I've done the same as Pat and Hillbilly. And I have also filled the end with JB Weld after I tapered it.

[PeteDavis]

The Tonkin's I got from David have a tiny pith. I drilled it out with a 3mm drill, being careful to go parallel to the outer wall and centered. Then I used Bohning's hot-melt cement which give some tune-up time if the point is sufficiently hot. I kept spinning the point and testing until it spun well. Most of the arrows  fly well but I have done way better with some weight on the front and I am knapping to match....about 125 grains or better. I'll hold my shots on deer under 12 yds.

PD

[GregB]

I do the same as Pat and Hillbilly and Mullet...I put a hardwood dowell in each end for strength. You can buy different diameter dowells for the variation of the pith.

However the tonkin cane Anthony and I just bought is almost solid, and I'd doubt would need anything. I might put a dowell in the nock end just in case even if I have to drill it out some.

Greg

[mullet]

  Gregg, All I do is taper the Tonkin.It holds up real good and really doesn't need inserts at either end.

[markinengland]

With thin walled arrow bamboo there would be very little material to taper - hence a wooden plug may be needed. This wouldn't be needed on the Tonkin shafts I have seen.
Pine dowel from a hardware or model shop, a bamboo skewer, a whittled piece of arrow shaft will all do. This adds a little strength but is really there to give something to taper if using a taper fit point.
A screw in field point may work. I have some to try myself. If the arrow hits something a bit side on it may split the shaft so binding would give a bit of insurance. I know a nail works as a point in bamboo but binding is essential to stop splitting due to the wedge like effect of the impact forcing the nail or tang down the shafts rather than thr force being taken on the end of the shaft.
Most old arrow heads made for bamboo in bronze and iron/steel were made with a long thin tang which fitted down the hollow of the bamboo but with an flat to sit against the end of the shaft to stop the tang being forced further down the shafts and splitting it.
Mark in England

[Cromm]

Thanks everyone.
All the info on bamboo/cane is a big help!!!!!
Thanks for your time.

[welch2]

Screw in field points mount up about the same as home made horn points.

http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,5342.0.html

Ralph

[ZanderPommo]

oh yeah ralph i remember my mouth waterin' over your giant bag of horn tips awhile back on Paleo

Zander