Hickory with hickory backing bow

[crazy horse]

Much of the feedback has suggested that the fades area needs to have more flex to it and the tips should taper down more.  In your opinion how much draw weight will I sacrifice if I were to make these changes?  

[DanaM]

Personally if its shooting good with little handshock I would leave it and enjoy it
Just keep the advice in mind on yer next one.

[GregB]

I agree with Dana that you should probably just enjoy and keep the suggestion's in mind for your next bow. But to answer your question, getting the bow bending more out of the fades would probably result in a pound or two of weight loss. Reducing the tips shouldn't cause any weight loss and shoud make the bow a better performer.

You really should be very pleased with this as your third bow. You might keep it as is and use it as comparison for future bows you make.

[Marc St Louis]

Very nice bow.

[crazy horse]

I was not planning on changing this bow.  I am very pleased with it.  My first bow was a short time success but only shot at 30#.  To increase draw weight I cut equal amounts from both ends and ended up turning it into toothpicks.  I just wanted to know for future reference.  Thanks.

[Hillbilly]

Remember also that draw weight without efficiency is deceptive. An efficiently designed 40# bow can easily shoot harder and faster than a 50# bow that has heavy tips, poor tiller, etc. Draw weight is just how much force it takes to pull the bow back. How much of that energy is actually going into pushing the arrow is what matters.

[ballista]

thats a nice, clean looking bow. my first bow actually barely worked, i could pull it to about 20", and it was made from a pine 2/4. btw i think i saw that bow somewhere else...whispers(bowstick)