You are right about the chrono, but I did chrono my personal tight curve bow, I got 172fps out of a 55# bow shooting a 520 gr arrow drawn to 27". I went to tournament that had a always had a chrono set up for the wheelie guys to check their speed.
That said; when I make a bow for myself I go through my osage and pick out the best of the best osage, perfect very thin early wood rings, 1/4" late wood rings, clear back and no character.
I try to stay away from chronos because a bow that I think is scorching an arrow always turns out to shoot slower than I expected, often by a long shot.
You are miles ahead of me as bow makers go Arvin, I just make bows that are good shooters, I have never gotten into force draw curves, neutral plains, limb mass or such. Fortunately, I was a pretty good shooter back in the day, I can feel if a bow is performing like it should, or not, and needs some subtle limb adjustments. This is something I can't explain, a good bow has a special feel to it when I shoot it.
I don't get much set out of my design, my favorite tight curve bow did develop some set in the bottom limb over the 10 years that I shot it but I put it through the mill because I shot it so much. After my initial wide limb flat belly attempts I settled into a narrow limb slightly rounded belly design that I liked, I can spot one of my bows from 30 yards away because of this design, they are all the same. Every bow on the rack except the third one down is billet bow, matched billets have always made better shooting bows for me.
Here are the few bows that I have left, my favorite is the third up from the bottom, old age keeps me from making them anymore, not much set in any of them, the oldest is 25 years old. The top bow is a BBO that started to pop the handle, in the picture I had just glued on a new handle but hadn't shaped it yet, it has long since been reworked with a new handle and leather. The middle bow with all the reflex is a BBO as well with the reflex glued in.
