Author Topic: Help with avoiding set  (Read 984 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline willie

  • Member
  • Posts: 3,315
Re: Help with avoiding set
« Reply #15 on: May 26, 2025, 07:58:23 pm »
Hard to guess, but maybe the wood is not dry enough
what part of the counrty do you live in?

if there is too much bending at the handle, the bow will be shocky and a little set in the center will make the tips appear like there is a lot of string follow.

http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,61640.0.html
http://www.primitivearcher.com/smf/index.php/topic,72166.0.html

Offline Mad Max

  • Member
  • Posts: 524
Re: Help with avoiding set
« Reply #16 on: May 26, 2025, 08:02:01 pm »
Very good information so far  :OK
My 2 cents

(1) I floor tiller, I push the tip on the floor hard and push the handle sideways at the same time to see the bend. A piece of leather on the floor helps save the tip.
I'm trying to mock a bow string pulling to the handle when I push.

(2) Arter I get it bending good I use a long string (long string is just long enough to string the bow and the string is close to the belly of the handle) or a very short brace.

(3) only bend the bow a few inches on a tiller tree to see what is going on, the better the bend the farther you can bend it, and brace it higher. at the same time.

(4) Don't draw the bow on the tiller tree and hold it there for more that a few seconds.
I would rather fail trying to do something above my means, Than to succeed at something beneath my means.

Offline superdav95

  • Member
  • Posts: 2,241
  • 3432614095
Re: Help with avoiding set
« Reply #17 on: May 29, 2025, 12:02:09 pm »
Very good information so far  :OK
My 2 cents

(1) I floor tiller, I push the tip on the floor hard and push the handle sideways at the same time to see the bend. A piece of leather on the floor helps save the tip.
I'm trying to mock a bow string pulling to the handle when I push.

(2) Arter I get it bending good I use a long string (long string is just long enough to string the bow and the string is close to the belly of the handle) or a very short brace.

(3) only bend the bow a few inches on a tiller tree to see what is going on, the better the bend the farther you can bend it, and brace it higher. at the same time.

(4) Don't draw the bow on the tiller tree and hold it there for more that a few seconds.


Yes!   Especially on point 4.   I’ve seen this myself less set by switching to a mounted tiller tree cradle vs a tiller stick.  A tiller stick is great for travel and portability and Good results can be had with either but don’t let it sit pulled and bent on tiller stick more then a few seconds as mentioned.  Doing so early on in tiller process puts stresses that cannot be seen easily yet in parts of the belly under compression.  Creeping up on the tiller is always the best way to get closer to zero set.  I’ve tried to test out different methods such as working on outers first then moving in to the mid limb bend then inners vs the opposite, starting with inners and moving out towards the tips.   I have found for me I get better results starting with outers then moving inward.  This is also helpful to monitor and achieve target draw weight.  It’s a safer way to not pass your target draw weight in my opinion.  Good points here.   

Sticks and stones and other poky stabby things.

superdav95@gmail.com